[0-12 |] Best regards, [0-13 |] Per Roger Lauritzen [0-14]
[0-15 |] From hunters to tourists [0-16] Finds made of weapons and the remains of pitfalls confirm that reindeer were hunted in the Jotunheimen as early as several thousand years ago. [0-17] Legends and myths of the mountains also show that this range early was prominent in our ancestors' awareness, and arrowheads lie so high up that it's clear that not even climbing the highest peaks frightened them. [0-18] The first primitive herder's huts in the Jotunheimen probably were built as early as the 14th century. [0-19] They were meagerly put together of rough logs or piled up stones from the spot to give the herders shelter at night. [0-20] The animals had to get along in the open for several hundred years, but at night it paid to keep the livestock in a pen. [0-21] Bears and wolves were numerous - and aggressive. [0-22] The first high mountain summer dairies probably arose as an upshot of increasing overgrazing in the valleys and possibly also as a result of a desire to combine hunting and trapping in the mountains with animal husbandry. [0-23] Long distances and miserable overnight conditions were justified by lush pastures and splendid surroundings for livestock throughout a long summer. [0-24] Yes, even in winter there were people at many summer dairies, particularly in Sjodalen. [0-25] Many farms sent livestock to the mountains again in late autumn so it could use the fodder stored at summer farms. [0-26] Moreover, the custom of raising animals in the mountains probably started as early as the Middle Ages. [0-27] Buyers traveled around to villages in winter and bought animals. [0-28] Later in spring they were collected in larger herds and driven to the mountains to fatten on the rich pastures in many places, for instance around Bygdin and in Leirungsdalen. [0-29] In autumn, the livestock was driven further to the city to be sold as slaughter animals. [0-30] Being a settler, dairy maid, drover or reindeer hunter in Jotunheimen in those days certainly was a harder life than people of today can imagine, and its doubtful that our ancestors regarded the mountains as a wonderland. [0-31] However, we reckon that they also appreciated the beauty and variety of the scenery in the Jotunheimen. [0-32] Tales of exploits and experiences in the mountains that live on in the villages underscore in any case that the scenery was treasured. [0-33] In the early 19th century, the first scientists and artists found their way to the Jotunheimen. [0-34] A few English tourists came soon thereafter, but the first real Norwegian tourist came in 1854. [0-35] He was Axel Arbo, who in 1854 walked through Utladalen and the year after was on Galdhøpiggen. [0-36] The first tourists who penetrated into "Jotunfjeldene," which was the designation before Aasmund Olavsson Vinje introduced his more appealing name in "Fjøllstaven min" in 1862, depended on the few summer dairies there were to find shelter. [0-37] Most visited were several that since have developed into major, popular tourist lodges. [0-38] The private lodges, Spiterstulen, Memurubu and Leirvassbu, and DNT's Gjendebu and Skogadalsbøen can all trace their lineage back to the mid 19th century at least. [0-39] In 1874, the first T-marked route in Norway was opened from Besseter in Sjodalen over Besseggen to Memurubu. [0-40] Today, Jotunheimen is the mountain area in the country that attracts the most hikers. [0-41] Each summer, more than 30,000 follow Peer Gynt's footsteps over Besseggen. [0-42] Galdhøpiggen og Glittertind are also real magnets, and the peaks west in Hurrungane attract many climbers and glacier hikers to test themselves. [0-43] Since the first cairn routes came into being, the route network has expanded to comprise 650 kilometers. [0-44] In winter, particularly at Easter time, DNT and the private tourist lodges mark nearly 570 km ski trails with branches. [0-45] If you wish to ramble along marked routes and stay at cozy lodges in splendid mountain scenery, Jotunheimen has all possibilities. [0-46] If you wish to shun marked routes and lodges, it's not difficult, because here there still is enough room to roam for those who seek space, stillness and challenge. [0-47]
[0-48 |] Norwegian Mountain Museum [0-49] A visit to the Norwegian Mountain Museum in Lom gives a great overview of the environment and human uses of the Jotunheimen throughout history. [0-50] DNT has collected many implements and documents representing hiking and Association history and included them in the museum collections. [0-51] The Museum has the status of the center for the Jotunheimen National Park and also has the Lom Tourist Information Bureau. [0-52]
[0-53 |] Myriad flora and fauna [0-54] The rock types that the Jotunheimen comprises are about a billion years old, and they were thrust into place in this area some 400 million years ago by enormous forces. [0-55] Since then, water, ice, wind and weather have ground and shaped the landscape that we see today in a process that is ongoing. [0-56] The area takes in the spectrum of topographic features, from sheer, barren peaks and large glacier to deep valleys and lush hillsides. [0-57] Erosion has in many places left fertile soil, and since there mostly is enough precipitation and sun, the conditions in many places lend themselves to the growth and thriving of plants. [0-58] Altitude and temperature of course vary widely, and consequently the diversification in plant life is great. [0-59] At places such as Vettismorki and in Sjodalen, there are massive, sturdy Douglas firs lined up, and on a hike through Utladalen of a warm summer day, you'll see lushness worthy of far more southerly latitudes. [0-60] Also contributing to the diversity and thrill of the mountain wilds are growths of chokecherries and wild strawberries along the shores of Gjende. [0-61] Gnarled mountain birch stretch their light green crowns toward the heavens higher up on the hillsides than other places in the country, at about 1200 meters. [0-62] Many of our flowers also have their elevation records along Gjende, and the mélange of warmth-loving lowland flora and pure Alpine flora is quite unique. [0-63] Here you can find orchids such as little dame's rocket and fragrant orchid near to high-mountain plants such as purple saxifrage and alpine azalea. [0-64] The latter species is also found on scraggy bare mountains. [0-65] The altitude record however is held by the glacier buttercup, fully 2370 meters above sea level it nods at you. [0-66] Plant diversity provides a basis for animal diversity. [0-67] The habitual animal is the wild reindeer. [0-68] Most likely, its numerous stocks first drew our fir-clad ancestors into the Jotunheimen. [0-69] For many generations, wild reindeer hunting was vital, as the remains of pitfalls and guide walls attest. [0-70] Reindeer pitfalls were in any case in use up to 1624. [0-71] In that year they were forbidden by Kristian IV, but probably were used up to the 19th century in some places. [0-72] With time, as modern weapons came into use concurrently with the introduction of tame reindeer, the wild reindeer stocks dwindled. [0-73] Keeping tame reindeer caused bad blood between hunters and those who kept the tame reindeer. [0-74] Many tame reindeer certainly were shot by people who took little notice of earmarks, and many disappeared over the hills with wild reindeer herds. [0-75] Today there are a few thousand tame reindeer in the east of Jotunheimen, while the wild reindeer stick to the west. [0-76] There the stately animal is also hunted. [0-77] In the valleys on the fringes of the Jotunheimen there are permanent stocks of moose, such as in Utladalen, Veodalen, Sjodalen and along Gjende. [0-78] Deer and roe deer have thus far been seen only in Utladalen. [0-79] Today, there are few large predators, but in the past they roamed free in the Jotunheimen. [0-80] For one, Utladalen was known for its many bears. [0-81] Bear hunting was in fact the principal source of income for the people of the Vormeli mountain farm. [0-82] More recently there have been only sporadic tracks of bear, wolverine and lynx in the Jotunheimen. [0-83] The small predators, such as minks, stoats, weasels and red foxes are on the other hand common, while the Arctic fox regrettably has all but disappeared from this mountain area. [0-84] Of the rodents there are hares, tundra voles and lemmings, but their stocks vary widely. [0-85] Bird life is as might be expected in this type of mountains. [0-86] The rough-legged hawk is the most common bird of prey, but there also are other hawks, particularly in the west. [0-87] For that matter, the same is true of several falcon species. [0-88] The most common small bird species are willow warbler, redpoll, snow bunting, meadow pipit and brambling. [0-89] There also are ducks in the area, particularly teals and golden eyes, and one or two Arctic loons occasionally wander in. [0-90] Besides, for the Jotunheimen as for many other mountain areas: there are increasing numbers of gulls. [0-91] In winter, particularly ravens are numerous. [0-92] Of the fish there are only trout, and stocks vary considerably.