[1-20 |] Access [1-21] Road and buss service to the lodge. [1-22] Marked hiking trails to Bessheim, Glitterheim, Memurubu, Haugseter, and Sikkilsdalsseter. [1-23]
[1-24 |] Facts [1-25] Gjendesheim was opened in 1878. [1-26 |] Owner: DNT OA. [1-27] Wardens: Bjørg Aaseng and Olav Gaute Vole. [1-28] The lodge is located in Vågå Township in Oppland, 995 meters above sea level, and has 185 beds. [1-29] Tel: 61 23 89 10. [1-30 |] E-Mail: gjheim@online.no [1-31 |] Web: www.dntoa.no [1-32]
[1-33 |] Bessheim [1-34 |] Old summer dairy [1-35] The first hikers who came to Sjodalen in the mid 19th century came from Sikkilsdalen. [1-36] They walked through the gap and down toward Øvre Sjodalsvatn. [1-37] On the west shore there were three summer dairies almost beside each other. [1-38] One of them, that has become Bessheim tourist lodge, has since around 1865 belonged to the Storvik farm in Vågå and has been in the same family's ownership the whole time. [1-39] Also in the early days of hiking, the parts around Gjende were among Norway's most popular hiking areas, and it was not without reason that DNT's first cairn-marked route ran from Bessheim and over Veslefjell and Besseggen til Memurubu in 1874. [1-40] It was, by the way, Jens Tronhus of the neighboring summer dairy who did the job. [1-41] From 1948 to 1998, Kari and Knut Lund ran Bessheim. [1-42] They were the right people at the right place. [1-43] In due course, they tackled the challenges, brought in electricity and improved the road, and steadily expanded and modernized the tourist lodge. [1-44] The lodge was and is popular, and the hike choices are good. [1-45] Here you can go on a hike regardless of the weather. [1-46] If it's windy in the mountains, there are enough choices down Sjodalen, and if the weather is good, many of Jotunheimen's major peaks lie within range for a day hike from Bessheim. [1-47] For instance, both Besshø and Nautgardstind are natural hike destinations from Bessheim, and on the other side of Sjodalen, Heimdalshø beckons. [1-48] If you will not walk that far, Besstrondrundhø is an excellent alternative. [1-49] It's not more than 1421 meters, but offers a superb panorama, toward both Galdhøpiggen and Rondane. [1-50] Also not far from Bessheim is Vågå Township's fine culture trail. [1-51] If you prefer fishing, there are possibilities both in Øvre Sjodalsvatn and in Bessvatn. [1-52]
[1-53 |] Access [1-54] Road and buss service past the lodge. [1-55] Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Memurubu, and Glitterheim. [1-56]
[1-57 |] Facts [1-58] Bessheim has received tourists since the mid 19th century. [1-59] The lodge is located in Vågå Township in Oppland, 960 meters above sea level, and has 150 beds. [1-60 |] Owners: Kari and Knut Lund. [1-61] Wardens: Magni and Bernt Jo Vole. [1-62 |] Tel: 61 23 89 13. [1-63 |] E-Mail: post@bessheim.no [1-64]
[1-65 |] Glitterheim [1-66 |] CCentenarian [1-67] In 2001, Glitterheim turned one hundred, but actually it's much older. [1-68] As early as during the Teutonic Migration, hunters found refuge under boulders on the down side of today's tourist lodge. [1-69] With a bit of goodwill, there's sleeping space for four people. [1-70] The smoke-blackened roof indicates that many have used this cave through the years (see picture, page 2). [1-71] Judging from the pitfalls for reindeer that have been found in and around Veodalen, these parts were a key larder. [1-72] In the 19th century, some hunters decided to arrange a more suitable place to spend the night. [1-73] Around 1880, a hunting hut of stone was finished, but for that purpose it wasn't used long. [1-74] As early as 1898, DNT bought the hut for use as a tourist cabin, or more correctly, as lodging for those who who were to build a tourist lodge. [1-75] There were no decent overnight lodgings between Sjodalen and Visdalen, and a lodge at the foot of Glittertind was ideal. [1-76] Transporting material and equipment from the village into the long Veodalen and building the tourist lodge took a long time. [1-77] In 1901, the first Glitterheim was ready to receive tourists. [1-78] Since 1910, the Vole family has been the wardens of the lodge. [1-79] From 1973 on, Ole and Solveig Vole have been at the helm. [1-80] Not least because of them, Glitterheim is known as a very nice place to stay. [1-81] The lodge has evolved through the years, but hikers choose Veodalen for the same reasons as before: hikes to peaks and on glaciers, with Glittertind as the principal hike destination. [1-82] And if you don't want to go to Tinden, there is a throng of other splendid hike destinations around Glitterheim. [1-83] Nautgardstind and Stornubben on the east side of the valley are managed by the hardy in a day. [1-84] Not quite so high, but perhaps as splendid is the tour to Styggehø and Hestlegerhø. [1-85] If you are proficient in glacier hiking or follow the lodge's guide, the glaciers beckon on the west side with their throng of Veo- and Memurutinds. [1-86]
[1-87 |] Access [1-88] There's a road to the door, but from the National Park border, it is closed for ordinary traffic. [1-89] Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Bessheim, Memuruby and Spiterstulen. [1-90]
[1-91 |] Facts
[1-92] Glitterheim was opened in 1901.
[1-93] Owner: DNT OA.
[1-94] Wardens: Solveig and Ole Vole.
[1-95 |] The lodge is located in Lom township in Oppland, 1348 meters above sea level, and has 137 beds as well as eight in self-service lodings.
[1-96 |] Tel: 61 23 18 33.
[1-97 |] E-Mail: gheim@online.no
[1-98 |] Web: www.dntoa.no
[1-100 |] Memurubu
[1-101 |] Midway on Gjende
[1-102] The name Memurubu means something like "the hut by the river that gouges midway," and is a fairly accurate description of the surroundings of Memuruby midway on Gjende.
[1-103] Everyone who comes over the mountains down toward the lodge can see how much sand and gravel the river has carried out into Gjende over the years.
[1-104] If it continues its work for a few more millennia, it probably will divide Gjende in two.
[1-105] The combination of the river's impact and a favorable climate also has made the outermost part of Memurudalen unusually inviting, green and fertile.
[1-106] The first stone hut was built here in the 18th century and taken over by DNT in 1870.
[1-107] It was three Englishment who really put Memurubu on the map.
[1-108] In a humorous book, "Three in Norway by Two of Them," they vividly describe, among other things, their experiences as tourists at Gjende in 1880.
[1-109] They stayed at Memurubu for several weeks while they hunted and fished.
[1-110] The remains of the Englishmen's stay can be seen on t he incline below the tourist lodge; the stone oven they used for baking is still there.
[1-111] After the throngs of hikers grew and DNT opened larger tourist loges at both ends of Gjende, the stone cabin's single room with a fireplace and two simple bunks no longer was adequate.
[1-112] So, many breathed a sign of relief when Ole Sveine from Lom took on the task of building and managing a tourist lodge at this place.
[1-113] In 1884, his tourist station was finished, up on the lush hills over the river delta at Gjende.
[1-114] Like the other tourist lodges around this unique mountain lake, however, also this building was too small; the lodge has been expanded several times, most recently in 1993, when a completely new main building was finished.
[1-115] Though the lodge has changed, however, the same family that has managed it since 1870 welcomes guests.
[1-116] Most guest quite naturally hike Besseggen or Bukkelægeret, but Memurubu also can offer many other hike destinations on glaciers, summits and valleys in the vicinity.
[1-117]
[1-118 |] Gjendebu
[1-119 |] DNT's oldest lodge
[1-120] When the first of our ancestors found their way all the way to the west end of Gjende isn't known, but it's obvious that the first summer dairies were built there as early as the early 18th century.
[1-121] Summer dairy people came all the way down from Bøverdalen.
[1-122] That was quite a cattle track, but the farmers kept their summer dairies anyway, because the grazing conditions here were so favorable.
[1-123] When the first tourists began to visit this part of the Jotunheimen sometime in the 19th century, it was possible therefore to find shelter in primitive herder's huts.
[1-124] The hikers of the time were of course accustomed to quite a bit in the class "simple refuge in the Norwegian mountains," but Gjendesæteren was nonetheless too primitive for many of them.
[1-125] Some called the summer dairy a "scree pile."
[1-126] Nonetheless, the interest in the area was so great that the newly-founded DNT, as early as its second general meeting, decided to provide better lodgings for hikers in this area.
[1-127] At the east end, Bessheim offered excellent lodgings, so DNT decided at its general meeting in 1869 to build a lodge at the west end.
[1-128] It was DNT's third lodge project.
[1-129] The other two have been either shut down or sold, but Gjendebu is alive and in the best of health.
[1-130] The newly-built Gjendebu was finished in the autumn of 1871, but the new lodge was soon too small, and DNT bought a stone cowshed from Erik Hansen Slaalien for 10 Rix-dollars.
[1-131] The same man also was hired as the warden, and it was his daughter who was born in the stone hut at Gjendebu and named Gjendine.
[1-132] Some 130 years later, the "scree pile" has evolved considerably.
[1-133] After several alterations, the venerable building forms an unusually harmonious lodge enjoyed by visitors.
[1-134] The landscape around the lodge is both bleak and benign.
[1-135] Many have been inspired by such surroundings, and several artists have tried to replicate nature in words, in notes or on canvas.
[1-136] Few have done so better than Edvard Grieg, who stayed at Gjendebu several times at the end of the last century.
[1-137] In the music for Peer Gynt he must have drawn inspiration from here.
[1-138]
[1-139 |] Access
[1-140] There is scheduled boat service on Gjende throughout the summer, and there are marked hiking trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, and Torfinnsbu.
[1-141]
[1-142 |] Facts
[1-143] Gjendebu was opened in 1871.
[1-144] Owner: DNT OA.
[1-145] Wardens: Aase and Håkon Dalen.
[1-146] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 990 meters above sea level, and has 119 beds, including 34 beds in self-service lodgings.
[1-147 |] Tel: 61 23 89 44.
[1-148 |] Web: www.dntoa.no
[1-150 |] Sikkilsdalsseter
[1-151 |] Enjoyable for horses and people
[1-152] The south wall of Sikkilsdalshornet is both steep and exposed, but it towers over a valley that is unusually lush and green.
[1-153] In addition to its lushness, the valley was early known f or its rich trout fishing and good hunting.
[1-154] Consequently, it was put into use for mountain pasture, and with time also for summer dairying.
[1-155] The Huseby farm at Stange in Hedmarken long had a summer dairy here, and it must have been drudgery to drive a whole herd for days along country roads all the way up to Sikkilsdalen, almost 1000 meters above sea level!
[1-156] In 1803, the village records relate that two farms down at Kvikne, midway between Skåvu and Vinstra, ran summer dairies, so the dalesmen no longer saw Hedemarkers using "their" valley.
[1-157] In 1868, the State began to lease the valley as pasture for horses, and soon thereafter Englishman Charles Bamford bought it for hunting and fishing.
[1-158] He had hunted for years in Jotunheimen, among others with the legendary reindeer hunter Jo Gjende.
[1-159] Through Jo Gende, Bamford came in contact with Syver Sande, nicknamed Sjur, a well-known hunter and mountain man.
[1-160] Sjur Sande was persuaded to be Bamford's representative in Sikkilsdalen and to live there year-round.
[1-161] Together with his wife and two children, he moved from Vågå, and his descendants lived in Sikkilsdalen for almost a hundred years.
[1-162] To this day, the Sande family operates Sikkilsdalssetra.
[1-163] However, the combination of hunting ground and horse pasture worked poorly.
[1-164] By 1874, Bamford sold Sikkilsdalen further to a group of Kristiania citizens.
[1-165] They tried in turn to resell to the State, and in 1881 got the first bite.
[1-166] The State bought Sikkilsdalen to operate a stud farm, and Sjur Sande and his family were included in the consignment as lessees of Sikkilsdalsseter.
[1-167] There are unusually good grazing conditions for horses in Sikkilsdalen.
[1-168] The ground is fertile, the valley is sheltered, and the sun takes hold well.
[1-169] The result is juicy, nutritious grass, so therefore they still are several herds of horses in Sikkilsdalen throughout the summer.
[1-170] It's thrilling to watch as they are turned loose to pasture around Midsummer Day.
[1-171] Tourists also learned early to appreciate Sikkilsdalen, and as early as 1870, the family's single cabin was too small, so Sjur added a guest room.
[1-172] Since then, it's been non-stop; tourism has become most important, and the Sande family built today's fine lodge.
[1-173]
[1-174 |] Access
[1-175] There's a road to the lodge from Skåbu, and marked hiking trails from Oskampen and Gjendesheim.
[1-176]
[1-177 |] Facts
[1-178] Sikkilsdalsseter has received tourists since 1868.
[1-179] The lodge is located in Nord Fron Township in Oppland, 1016 meters above sea level, and has 78 beds.
[1-180 |] Owner: Ministry of Agriculture.
[1-181 |] Warden: Tordis Sande Varpestuen.
[1-182 |] Tel: 61 29 55 14.
[1-183 |] Web: www.skabu.com
[1-184]
[1-185 |] Bestrond Sæter
[1-186 |] Old summer dairy in Sjodalen
[1-187]
[1-188 |] Access
[1-189] Road past the lodge and buss service.
[1-190]
[1-191 |] Facts
[1-192] Besstrond Sæter has received tourists since 1976.
[1-193] Owners: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen.
[1-194 |] Warden: Turid Berge.
[1-195] The lodge is located in Vågå Township in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 48 beds.
[1-196 |] Tel: 61 23 89 23.
[1-197]
[1-198 |] Spiterstulen
[1-199] The lodge is fully described in brochure 4.
[1-200]
[1-201 |] Access
[1-202] Road and buss service to the lodge.
[1-203] Marked hiking trails to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu and Gjendebu.
[1-204]
[1-205 |] Facts
[1-206] Spiterstulen has received tourists since the 1830s.
[1-207 |] Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim.
[1-208] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1100 meters above sea level, and has about 230 beds.
[1-209 |] Tel: 61 21 14 80.
[1-210 |] Web: www.spiterstulen.no
[1-211 |] Juvasshytta
[1-212] The lodge is fully described in brochure 4.
[1-213 |] Access
[1-214] Road and buss service to the lodge.
[1-215] Marked hiking trails to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Røisheim, and Elveseter.
[1-216]
[1-217 |] Facts
[1-218] Juvasshytta has received tourists since 1884.
[1-219 |] Owner: Ragnhild Vole.
[1-220] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1840 meters above sea level, and has about 85 beds.
[1-221 |] Tel: 61 21 15 50.
[1-222 |] Web: http://ditt.nett/juvasshytta
[1-223]
[1-224 |] Hindsæter fjellstue
[1-225] 17th century summer dairy.
[1-226]
[1-227 |] Access
[1-228] Road past the lodge and buss service.
[1-229]
[1-230 |] Facts
[1-231] Hindsæter fjellstue has received tourists since the 1860s.
[1-232 |] Owner: Rolf Strøm.
[1-233] The lodge is located in Vågå Township in Oppland, 920 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds.
[1-234 |] Tel: 61 23 89 16.
[1-235]
[1-236 |] Maurvangen
[1-237] Camping and rental cabins.
[1-238]
[1-239 |] Access
[1-240] Road past the place and buss service.
[1-241] Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim and Sikkilsdalsseter.
[1-242]
[1-243 |] Facts
[1-244] Murvangen Camping has received tourists since 1976.
[1-245 |] Owner: Else Reiremo.
[1-246] The place is located in Vågå township in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 26 rental cabins.
[1-247 |] Tel: 61 23 89 22.
[1-248]
[1-249 |] Classics along Gjende
[1-250 |] Hike 1 a - 2 days - gg
[1-251]
[1-252 |] 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim to Memurubu
[1-253 |] Have you ever seen that Gjende Ridge?
[1-254] Before 1867, not so many had.
[1-255] However, then Henrik Ibsen's masterpiece Peer Gynt came out, and the Gjende region with Besseggen became known in wider circles.
[1-256] When DNT marked the first cairn route in the early 1870s, it ran also from Bessheim to Memurubu over Veslefjellet and down Besseggen.
[1-257] In our day, around 30,000 people hike over Besseggen in the course of an average summer.
[1-258] The hike is reckoned to be a relatively easy day's march.
[1-259] The ridge itself, which is about 20 meters wide, accounts for hardly a kilometer of the route.
[1-260] It is slightly exposed, but not dangerous.
[1-261] In fact, cross-country runs were held from Memurubu to Gjendesheim over the ridge in the early 1960s, but were stropped after a couple of years.
[1-262] If you fear heights, it's best to do the hike from Memurubu, but it is most splendid from Gjendesheim or Bessheim.
[1-263] I'll describe the hike from Gjendesheim, where most hikers start.
[1-264] The elevation gain from the tourist lodge to the top of Veslefjellet is 750 metres, but the trail is broad and firm, and the incline is quite gradual.
[1-265] The hillsides around Gjende are extremely fertile and there is much to enjoy if you are interested in flowers.
[1-266] Here birches grow over 1200 meters, the highest in the country.
[1-267] After one kilometer, the route to Glitterheim branches off to the right, but we continue up Veslløyfti and Veslefjellet.
[1-268] With time, the tracks after tens of thousands of hiking boots have made a broad, grey band over Veslefjellet, but you need not go many meteres away from the trail to find that plants also grow at 1700 meters elevation.
[1-269] It's just that Alpine azaleas and glacier buttercups are not as profuse as their relatives farther down the hillside.
[1-270] Up on top, the marked route from Bessheim meets that from Gjendesheim.
[1-271] The hike from Bessheim takes about an hour more, and is masrked via the outlet of Bessvatnet.
[1-272] There's a bridge.
[1-273] The panorama from Veslefjell is formidable.
[1-274] From here you can see many of Jotunheimen's major peaks and greater parts of Valdresflya and Gausdal Vestfjell.
[1-275] The view from the top of Besseggen also is overwhelming, with the blue Bessvatnet and the green Gjende far below.
[1-276] When you start the descent, however, you should watch your step.
[1-277] There are a couple of narrow passages that many find exposed.
[1-278] The elevation difference down to Bessvatn is nearly 400 meters.
[1-279] Safely down, you walk over a narrow saddle that separates Bessvatnet from the cliff down toward Gjende.
[1-280] Had the glacier that once created Bessvatnet ground a bit more on the rock here, there would have been an impressive waterfall down to Gjende.
[1-281] Instead, now the water runs eastwards.
[1-282] From the shore of Bessvatnet, the trail climbs again a couple hundred meters, before it bears downward again.
[1-283] First past Bjørnbøltjørna and thereafter down towards Memurubu.
[1-284] You can spend the night, take the boat back to Gjendesheim or onward to Gjendebu, or walk back to Gjendesheim along Gjende.
[1-285] The tour goes through much lush growth along an old cattle track and is surprisingly varied.
[1-286]
[1-287 |] 2. Memurubu to Gjendebu
[1-288] This hike also is a classic.
[1-289] The hike down Bukkelægeret is one of the Jotunheimen's steepest routes, but it is well secured and not dangerous if you are careful.
[1-290] Just after you start from Memurubu, the route crosses Muru on a solid bridge.
[1-291] The trail continues steeply up towards Sjugurdtind and then more gently upward towards Lågtunga.
[1-292] On the way, it first passes Sjugurtindtjørna and then Grunnevatnet.
[1-293] On a warm summer day, you certainly will enjoy that.
[1-294] The trail continues, high and open and offers splendid views, particularly Surtningssua to the north and the peaks on the southern side of Gjende are prominent.
[1-295] The trail continues a couple kilometers to a large cairn where the route forks.
[1-296] To the right, the route continues westwards and down in Storådalen, where it joins the route between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu.
[1-297] This hike from Memurubu to Gjendebu takes about six hours, and can be an alternative for those who find Bukkelægeret too steep.
[1-298] However, we continue along the trail to the left and down Bukkelægeret.
[1-299] Here it goes downward in steep switchbacks, and cables are fixed at the most exposed places.
[1-300] As for Besseggen, here it also may be wise to hike the opposite direction if you suffer acrophobia.
[1-301] The hillside is steep but can offer unique flora.
[1-302] They say that there have been found some 700 species of plants in this area.
[1-303] Here is the entire spectrum from glacier crowfoot, anemone, and pyramidal saxifrage to dog rose, chokecherry and lilly of the valley.
[1-304] Well down from Bukkelægeret, the trail goes ahead to Gjendebu, easily and fine along the shore of Gjende.
[1-305]
[1-306 |] Day hikes from Memurubu
[1-307] The hike to Surtningssua is one you should absolutely do if you stay at Memurubu.
[1-308] Its 2368 meters makes it Norway's seventh highest mountain.
[1-309] It was first climbed around 1840 by Johan Sverdrup, later President of Parliament.
[1-310] Jotunologist Emanuel Mohn, who was on the summit 40 years thereafter, felt that the view from the summit was the grandest in the Jotunheimen.
[1-311] Such ranking is doubtful, but that the panorama from the summit is impressive is without doubt.
[1-312] Two routes are marked to the summit, and you had best reckon eight hours up and down.
[1-313]
[1-314 |] MS Gjende
[1-315] Since 1906, there has been a motor boat service on Gjende.
[1-316] Today, the influx of passengers is so great that on the most hectic days in summer, two passenger launches asre in service to carry all who wish to travel by water between Gjendesheim, Memurubu and Gjedebu.
[1-317] Here is the largest launch on the lake on a fine summer day.
[1-318] It's not always like this - Gjende is known for being insidious, with strong, sudden gusts and rapid changes of weather.
[1-319]
[1-320 |] Lengths
[1-321] Gjendesheim - Memurubu, 6 hours.
[1-322] Gjendesheim - Memurubu, 7 hours.
[1-323] Memurubu - Gjendesheim (along Gjende), 3.5 hours.
[1-324] Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Bukkelægeret), 5 hours.
[1-325] Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Storådalen), 6 hours.
[1-326]
[1-327 |] Lodgings
[1-328] Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Maurvangen, Memurubu, Gjendebu.
[1-329 |] Public transportation
[1-330] Bus service to Gjendesheim and Bessheim.
[1-331] Boat service on Gjende.
[1-332] Stops at Gjendebu, Memurubu and Gjendesheim.
[1-333 |] Day hikes from Gjendesheim
[1-334 |] Hike 1b - Many choices - g - ggg
[1-335] There are several tempting day hike destinations around Gjendesheim.
[1-336] On the north side of Gjende, both Veslefjellet and Besshø should draw those who seek vistas and overviews.
[1-337] The hike to Veslefjellet is short and easy and can well be combined with a side trip via Bessvastn.
[1-338] The hike to the summit of Besshø is considerably longer but not particularly difficult.
[1-339] It's most usual to go up the mountainside from the outlet of Bessvatnet, go over Bukkehø and follow the ridge on the south side of the glacier to the summit.
[1-340] South of Gjende there also are many choices.
[1-341] Neither Høgebrotet nor Tjørnholstind are so far from Gjendesheim that their summets cannot be reached in the course of a day.
[1-342] If you are among those who decidedly seeks summits, it's a good idea to hike around Knutshø.
[1-343] Ask the staff at Gjendesheim to ferry you over Sjoa, and follow the trail westwards along the shore of Gjende.
[1-344] It's not marked, but the route is obvious.
[1-345] On the little ridge between Øvre Leirungen and Gjende there's a restored stone hut that originally was built by Englishman Theodore Rathbone in the mid 19th century.
[1-346] He was a close friend of the legendary reindeer hunter Jo Gjende.
[1-347] From the hut you can either continue along Øvre Leirungen or hike over to the splendid ridge on Knutshø.
[1-348] Some are of the opinion that it was this ridge from which Peer Gynt and the reindeer buck lept, and not Besseggen.
[1-349] We'll let that discussion rest, but contend that Knutshø also is worth a day hike from Gjendesheim; it's an exposed but completely safe hike.
[1-350] On the return to Gjendesheim you can ramble along the east side of Nedre Leirungen and Gjendeshø.
[1-351] On the last stretch to the lodge you come in on the marked route from Haugseter (see brochure 2).
[1-352]
[1-353 |] Fishing
[1-354] Neither is fishing a poor reason to visit these parts.
[1-355] The row of old fisherman's shelters just at Gjendesheim shows that particularly Sjoa and Gjendeoset are good trout spots.
[1-356] The same can be seen in the Gjende Blackflies that hover in swarms over the water on warm summer days.
[1-357] Before they hatch, the blackfly laravae lie on stones in the bottom of the river, vulnerable to feeding fish.
[1-358] In Gjende there are abundant amphipods, small crustaceans that are goodies for trout.
[1-359] Fishing licences are for sale at the tourist lodges.
[1-360]
[1-361 |] The big hike round
[1-362 |] Hike 1c - 4-6 days - gg - ggg
[1-363 |] 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim to Glitterheim
[1-364] More hikes than Besseggen have acquired the status of classics in the Jotunheimen.
[1-365] With a starting point at Gjendesheim, you can go on a week's hike round that takes you through much of the most magnificent that the Jotunheimen offers and has many possible side trips, among them the two highest peaks in the entire country.
[1-366] The main route goes via Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu and Memurubu, but there are many options for shorter route choices on the way, should you feel that some of the legs I suggest are too long.
[1-367] The route has the advantage that you can start or finish at all the lodges, save Glitterheim, and take public transportation or drive onwards.
[1-368] Nonetheless, I suggest that you start at Gjendesheim.
[1-369] For the first kilometer up the hillside toward Gjendehalsen, you walk together with those who aim to go over Besseggen, but at the fork, you go to the right.
[1-370] The trail is broad and firm; here there have been many before you.
[1-371] The first people, by the way, might have been here long ago.
[1-372] The environment was in any case conducive.
[1-373] We know, for example, that some 8000 years ago, the forests reached higher than they do today.
[1-374] The remains of ancient pine logs have been found in marshes as high as 1200 meters above sea level in this area, and who knows if not hunters also wandered hereabouts.
[1-375] The trail swings around the blue Bessvatnet that extends in an arc inwards towards the foot of Besshø.
[1-376] The summit is a fine hike destination if you're staying at Bessheim or Gjendesheim.
[1-377] The route to Glitterheim crosses the river on a bridge at its outlet and after a while also meets the marked route from Bessheim.
[1-378] Go a little farther out towards the edge, and you see down to Bessheim and get a good overview over Sjodalen.
[1-379] The marked route continues gently onward towards Russvatnet.
[1-380] It also is a long, narrow lake that extends in an arch inward in the mountains.
[1-381] You get, however, a better overview of the lake when you're on the other side.
[1-382] That you do after having crossed the outlet on a bridge at the east end.
[1-383] Moreover, from there a cart road runs along the river down into Sjodalen.
[1-384] The marked route continues along the shore of Russvatnet a couple of kilometers before it again bears uphill along Tjørnholåa.
[1-385] You pass many streams on the stretch along the lake, and that's fine if you think you need a rest.
[1-386] Tjørnholåå is crossed on a bridge over a ravine.
[1-387] The bridge, by the way, is among the more airy, but safe enough (I was among those who built it!).
[1-388] On the other side, the route divides in two; both lead to glitterheim, and the length can be six of one and half a dozen of the other.
[1-389] The route to the right goes through the enchanting, grand Tjørnholet.
[1-390] It's considered to be a bit more demanding than the other.
[1-391] Here there are lots of stones, and it's not always easy to find the cairns, but that doesn't matter, as the route is obvious.
[1-392] Uppermost in the cirque there usually is a snowfield; be careful it it is hard and slippery.
[1-393] From the top of the gap there's a fine side trip to Austre Hestlægerhø.
[1-394] The marked route continues down in Veodalen and crosses Veo on a solid bridge.
[1-395] The other route from the bridge over Tjørnholåa is the most used.
[1-396] It runs gently uphill, first westwards and then northwards to the gap between Vestre and Austre Hestlægerhø.
[1-397] From there it runs gently onward along Hestbekken until it meets the route from Tjørnholet at the bridge over Veo.
[1-398]
[1-399 |] 2. Glitterheim to Spiterstulen
[1-400] There's a road to Glitterheim, but it is closed for ordinary vehicular traffic at the National Park Border, so here there are only hikers.
[1-401] That's noticeable in the cheerful chat at the fireside of an evening.
[1-402] Here the talk usually is of the next day's hike.
[1-403] For many it's a question of Glittertind.
[1-404] Norway's next highest summit is a fine hike destination.
[1-405] What's fine is that you can combine the hike onward towards Spiterstulen with a tour to the summit.
[1-406] If the weather is good, you certainly should do it.
[1-407] If the weather is bad, the better alternative is to ramble over Skautflya to Spiterstulen (see below).
[1-408] The hike over Glittertind is not so long that people in average physical condition manage it with a good margin.
[1-409] It runs mostly on a well-marked trail, and there are cairns all the way up to the edge of the glacier.
[1-410] The trail runs first up towards Nedre Steinbuvatnet and then up to the ridge to the edge of the glacier.
[1-411] The summit glacier has no crevasses, but it can be slippery, particularly in late summer, so it's wise to carry crampons.
[1-412] Follow the lip of the glacier westwards; don't go to close to the edge of the high, sheer north wall.
[1-413] As you approach the summit, you come upon an increasingly magnificent panorama.
[1-414] Previously it was possible to seek shelter in a cabin at the summit and enjoy the panorama.
[1-415] The cabin regrettably was destroyed by snow and wind, so today the weather determines how long you stay on the summit.
[1-416] If it's calm and the visibility is good, it's a fantastic place to spend a few hours, as you try to find the names of the peaks and glaciers that lie on the surrounding horizon.
[1-417] If you're headed for Spiterstulen, you should, however, not wait too long.
[1-418] Even though the toughest part of the hike is behind you, there's still a long way to go.
[1-419] Over the summit itself there's no marked route, so read the map carefully.
[1-420] First, you go over two lesser summits, and then gently down onto the glacier on the west side.
[1-421] The route is marked onward from the southern edge of the snowfield.
[1-422] First steeply down to S kautflya where Steindalselva and Skauta are crossed by walking on stones or wading, depending on the water level.
[1-423] The route goes onwardf to the fork to the route over Skautflya and then over Skautkampen, down in Visdalen and further along the road to Spiterstulen.
[1-424] As mentioned, the hike over Skautflya is an alternative to the hike over Glittertind.
[1-425] The route goes first over a footbridge over Steinbuelva, and thereafter in the direction of Skautflya through Vesleglupen.
[1-426] Before Skautkampen, this route meets the one over Glittertind, and they go onward together.
[1-427]
[1-428 |] 3. Spiterstulen to Gjendebu
[1-429] The next leg goes all the way to Gjendebu.
[1-430] It's a tough hike, but it can be divided in two by going via Leirvassbu.
[1-431] (For details, see brochure no. 4 in this series.)
[1-432] If you're in decent physical condition and have the whole day, it is, however, easy to walk to Gjendebu via Uradalen in one day.
[1-433] The first part of the hike from Spiterstulen goes in the broad and lush Visdalen.
[1-434] After a couple of kilometers, you can see the remains of the first Spiterstulen, under Styggehø on the other side of the river.
[1-435] There's a bridge over Hellstuguåa, and after a couple of kilometers, the trail from Leirvassbu splits off from the one towards Gjendebu.
[1-436] The latter continues through the narrow Uradalen, which is justifiably named.
[1-437] Here it's smart to have solid boots and to watch your step.
[1-438] Even so, don't forget to glance up now and then.
[1-439] Around the valley there are 12 imposing peaks that rise to over 2000 meters elevation.
[1-440] The highest is Store Hellstugutind at 2345 meters.
[1-441] The highest point in the valley itself is Uradalsbandet at 1663 meters, and from there it's mostly downhill.
[1-442] A bit north of Hellertjørna you come onto the route from Leirvassbu.
[1-443] Semmelåå can be waded or crossed on stones.
[1-444] With high water flow, crossing can be difficult, so you must go further up the hillside.
[1-445] Soon the trail also passes the splendid Hellerfossen and after a while also the place where the marked route to Memurubu goes up from Storådalen.
[1-446] The last kilometers to Gjendebu go through terrain that is increasingly lush and green, and especially in early summer, there's a great profusion of flowers.
[1-447]
[1-448 |] 4. Gjendebu to Memurubu
[1-449] See the description in Hike 1a.
[1-450] Here it's also possible to take the boat.
[1-451 |] 5. Memurubu to Gjendesheim
[1-452] See the description in Hike 1a.
[1-453] Here it's also possible to take the boat.
[1-454 |] Nautgardstind
[1-455] If you're sufficiently hardy and the weather is good, you can take in the splendid Nautgardstind on the way between Gjendesheim and Glitterheim.
[1-456] Start usually from the bridge over Tjørnholåa and continue right to the summit.
[1-457] Nautgardstind's 2258 metres offer a sweeping view all the way round.
[1-458] From the summit, you continue northwestwards along the ridge and out Nautgardsoksla down towards the route to Glitterheim.
[1-459]
[1-460 |] Glittertind
[1-461] Glittertind's 2465 metres doubtlessly are the prime hiking destination from Glitterheim.
[1-462] The great hunter Jo Gjende long believed that he had been the first man on "Tinden" after as early as 1842 having followed a reindeer buck all the way to the summit.
[1-463] But evidently it was a city fellow who also was the first on this summit.
[1-464] The cousin of Henrik Wergeland, landscape painter Harald Nicolai Storm Wergeland, scaled Norway's next highest summit the year before, together with Hans Sletten from Lom.
[1-465] Besides, next highest can be debated - when the first ascenders were on Glittertind, the summit snow dome was considerably higher than in our day, so it's entirely possible that the summit was then higher than Galdhøpiggen, even though at that time Galdhøpigg also had a summit glacier.
[1-466]
[1-467 |] Hellstugubreen
[1-468] A good alternative to the hike between Spiterstulen and Gjendebu is to ramble along the classic glacier route over Hellstugubreen.
[1-469] The hike presupposes proficiency in glacier hiking; it requires glacier gear and takes longer than the alternative in the valley.
[1-470] From Gjendebu, the route goes up Storådalen to Hellerfossen, and from there along the east side of Semmelåa, through Semelholet and up in the saddle between Hinnotefjellet and Søre Hellstugutinden.
[1-471] From there, it's glacier hiking northwards over Vestre Memurubre and out over Hellstugubreen to Visdalen and Spiterstulen.
[1-472]
[1-473 |] Lengths
[1-474] Gjendesheim/Bessheim - Glitterheim, 7 hours.
[1-475] Glitterheim - Spiterstulen, 5 or 7 hours.
[1-476] Spiterstulen - Gjendebu, 8 hours.
[1-477 |] Gjendebu - Memurubu, 5 or 6 hours, see p. 19
[1-478 |] Memurubu - Gjendesheim, 3, 5 or 6 hours, see p. 19
[1-479]
[1-480 |] Lodgings
[1-481] Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu, Memurubu.
[1-482]
[1-483 |] Public transportation
[1-484] Bus service to Gjendesheim, Bessheim and Spiterstulen.
[1-485] Boat service on Gjende.
[1-486] Stops at Gjendebu, Memurubu and Gjendesheim.
[1-487]
[1-488 |] The little hike round
[1-489 |] Hike 1d - 2-3 days - gg
[1-490]
[1-491] A popular hike round in Jotunheim is from Gjendesheim or Bessheim via Gliterheim and back via Memurubu.
[1-492] As for the big hike round, it can be done in both directions, and there are several alternative routes on the way.
[1-493]
[1-494 |] 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim to Glitterheim
[1-495] See the description in Hike 1c.
[1-496]
[1-497 |] 2. Glitterheim to Memurubu
[1-498] The first part of the hike goes along the route to Gjendesheim through the pass between Austre and Vestre Hestlægerhø.
[1-499] Further downhill to the fork of the route to Gjendesheim and down to Russvatnet.
[1-500] There's a bridge over Blåtjørnåa.