[4-4] In 1874, 24 years after the first ascent, Knud O. Vole, a cotter under Røisheim, started guiding on Galdhøpiggen. [4-5] He quickly gained a reputation as a friendly and capable companion. [4-6] To attain the summit in a day hike from Røisheim in Bøverdalen, it usually was necessary to start at 4 a.m., and the return often was correspondingly late. [4-7] On his long, arduous tours up Galdhøpiggen, Knud most certainly often longed for lodgings on the way, and in September 1884 h e and his son Ole began to build a stone hut at Juvvatnet. [4-8] Building at one of Jotunheimen's most weather-beaten sites at 1840 meters above sea level must have been a tough job. [4-9] For instance, every evening Knud and Ole had to go all the way down to Raubergstulen at about 1000 meters above sea level to spend the night. [4-10] The result, however, was good, and the stone cabin at Juvvatnet rapidly became popular. [4-11] In the summer of 1885, some 80 people stayed at the cabin, and traffic increased steadily. [4-12] The five bunks in the first cabin were too few, and Knud built out several times. [4-13] His son, Knut K. and his wife Rønnaug continued to build when in 1914 they took over the responsibility. [4-14] They expanded Juvassytta several times, built a road to Juvvatnet and put in electricity and a telephone. [4-15] In 1956, their daughters, Ragnhild and Tore took over the helm. [4-16] In their time there also has been much building at Juvasshytta, last in 1994. [4-17] All the expansions through the years have resulted in a long and oddly shaped building seen from the outside, but indoors the various stages merge into each other in a pleasing manner. [4-18] And it's not difficult to see that hikers enjoy the place. [4-19] Going to Galdhøpiggen has become recreation; often Juvasshytta's glacier guides lead 200-300 people to the summit on a good day in high season, and many of them preferably stay at Juvasshytta. [4-20] But Galdhøpiggen is far from the only reason for staying at the lodge at Juvvatnet. [4-21] In summer, many hike up from the valley to try the skiing on Veslegjuvbreen a good kilometer from Juvasshytta. [4-22]
[4-23 |] Access [4-24] Road to the lodge and buss service. [4-25] Marked hiking trails to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Røisheim, and Elveseter. [4-26]
[4-27 |] Facts [4-28] Juvasshytta has received tourists since 1884. [4-29 |] Owner: Ragnhild Vole. [4-30] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1840 meters above sea level, and has 85 beds. [4-31 |] Tel: 61 21 15 50. [4-32 |] Web: http://ditt.nett/juvasshytta [4-33]
[4-34 |] Spiterstulen [4-35 |] The largest tourist lodge [4-36] A lodge between the majestic Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind inevitably reflects its surroundings. [4-37] That too has happened at Spiterstulen. [4-38] That which once was a simple, small summer dairy has now grown to Jotunheimen's largest and most popular tourist lodge. [4-39] In the course of a year, the 230 some beds at Spiterstulen put up more than 25,000 guests. [4-40] And the traffic has gone on for a long time, well before Jotunheimen was "discovered" by students Keilhau and Boeck in 1820, there were travelers on their way between Gudbrandsdalen and Valdres, and naturally many of them who went through Jotunheimen sought to stay the night at Spiterstulen. [4-41] But as time went by, there came also people who traveled more for pleasure than because they had to. [4-42] The first tourist who gave an account from Visdalen in 1823 wrote that "at this summer dairy I was well cared for." [4-43] Steinar Sulheim, the owner at the time, saw the potential, and in 1836 he built an addition to the summer dairy to house travelers and hunters. [4-44] Fortunately, the growth has been sensible. [4-45] Regrettably, it's all too easy to build large in a way that a lodge facility clashes with the terrain. [4-46] At Spiterstulen, those who have built have managed to retain the summer dairy style. [4-47] The same Sulheim was among the three first ascenders of Galdhøpiggen, and the interest in Norway's highest peak came to be of great importance in the influx to Spiterstulen. [4-48] But it's wrong to credit Galdhøpiggen alone for Spiterstulen's success. [4-49] The location is unique in other ways as well. [4-50] Glittertind at 2464 meters lies temptingly close by, and 16 other of Norway's 26 peaks over 2300 meters can be attained on day hikes from Spiterstulen. [4-51] Here there are challenges aplenty for those who hunger for heights. [4-52] Spiterstulen has meant much to the evolution of glacier sports here in Norway. [4-53] Many aspiring glacier hikers acquired their first glacier skills on Svellnosbreen, the large glacier under the south wall of Galdhøpiggen. [4-54] From 1949 on, guides from Spiterstulen have taken thousands of hikers onto the jumbled icefall. [4-55] But you need not have Alpine interests to enjoy a stay at Spiterstulen. [4-56] If you would like to see how our ancestors used the mountains, there are pitfalls and hunting facilities along side the route over to Glitterheim and just under Spiterhø. [4-57] Further in the valley at Hellstuguåa there are tofts from dating from the 12th century, probably with the remains of "charity houses", the lodgings of the time for travelers. [4-58]
[4-59 |] Access [4-60] Road to the lodge and buss service. [4-61] Marked hiking trails to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. [4-62]
[4-63 |] Facts [4-64] Spiterstulen has received tourists since the 1830s. [4-65 |] Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim. [4-66] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1100 meters above sea level, and has about 230 beds. [4-67 |] Tel: 61 21 14 80. [4-68 |] Web: www.spiterstulen.no [4-69]
[4-70 |] Sognefjellhytta [4-71 |] Summer skiing and glacier hiking [4-72]
[4-73] Through the years, the journey over Sognefjell has cost many a wayfarer's life. [4-74] During the drought of 1812 to 1813, among others, six dalesmen froze to death on their way over to Sogn to fetch grain. [4-75] Today, the tragedy is commemorated by as many stone markers. [4-76] Henrik Wergeland certainly also was shaken by this thoroughfare, as after having gone over the mountains in 1832, he so characterized Sognefjellet: [4-77] "Here runs the Lombværinger's and the Sogninger's fearful way between each other over Sognefjeldet's Alpine desert." [4-78] It's consequently understandable that people in Lom and Skjolden yearned long for a better road over the mountains, but funds long were unavailable for conducting so sizeable a road project. [4-79] Hence, in the mid 1930s, construction started as pure relief work. [4-80] Some 200 young men, with shovels, pinch bars, pickaxes and wheelbarrows, worked from each side in some long summer months. [4-81] In the course of just a couple of years, the 20 kilometers of high-mountain road were finished in an impressive manner. [4-82] Two of the log cabins used during the constructions were later used as cafes just after World War II. [4-83] In 1947, Torkjell Bakkeberg then could open a tourist lodge in Sognefjellet as a lodging for wayfarers and mountaineers on hikes. [4-84] In winter, Sognefjellsveien usually is not plowed farther than to Jotunheimen Fjellstue on the eastside and Turtagrø on the west side, but in April/May the road is opened for vehicular traffic. [4-85] There's hardly a better starting point in Norway for those who want to go high up in the mountains in an easy way, and usually there's skiing in the area around the tourist lodge throughout summer. [4-86] Many national ski teams and athletic teams have discovered that and arrange summer training camps in Sognefjellet. [4-87] If you contemplate a hike or a glacier hike, Ssognefjellhytta is not a bad place to stay. [4-88] Both Smørstabbtinder and Fannaråken are natural hike destinations from here. [4-89] Guides go daily over Fannaråkbreen and Smørstabbreen. [4-90]
[4-91 |] Access [4-92] Sognefjellsveien goes by the lodge, and there is buss service. [4-93] There are marked hiking routes to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (with glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (with glacier guiding). [4-94]
[4-95 |] Facts [4-96] Sognefjellhytta was opened in 1947. [4-97 |] Owner: Råmund Mundhjeld. [4-98 |] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1415 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. [4-99 |] Tel: 61 21 29 34. [4-100 |] E-Mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com [4-101 |] Web: www.sognefjellet.com [4-102]
[4-103 |] Krossbu tourist station [4-104 |] From post house to glacier center [4-105]
[4-106] Sognefjellsveien between the highest farms in Bøverdalen and Fortun on the other side of the mountains is a good 30 km long. [4-107] That could be a bit on the long side for many to walk in one day, particularly if the weather turned bad. [4-108] When Krossoboden, or Krosshø Hotel, as it also was called in contemporary travel books, was finished in 1902, it was heartily welcomed by wayfarers. [4-109] That can be confirmed by reading the first hotel register, which contains many words of praise and good care in pleasing stays. [4-110] It was Nils T. Bakkeberg who was responsible for the building. [4-111] He later became known as a mountain guide and concessionaire for DNT, in addition to his job as a lodge host. [4-112] As with many other lodge hosts of the time, he also found that the lodge soon was too small. [4-113] In 1914, a new annex was finished. [4-114] It was later named Nilsestugu, and now houses, among other things, self-service lodgings that can be used when the main lodge is closed. [4-115] In connection with the opening of Sognefjellsveien for vehicular traffic in 1938, another new building was put up, and in 1974 the main building of today took form. [4-116] Even though the lodge was first intended for wayfarers, it was soon found to offer new options for hikers. [4-117] Smørstabbreen soon became a popular goal, and many hired a guide to go from Krossbu, up Leirbreen or Bøverbreen, past Kalven, Storebjørn and Surtningstind to Leirvassbu. [4-118] Glacier guiding remains extremely popular. [4-119] On good days, a party of 30-40 persons start from the lodge to follow a guide to Leirvassbu. [4-120] In season, guides usually go both ways, every day. [4-121] However, many want to learn more about hiking on glaciers without guides, so DNT's glacier courses at Krossbu are in demand. [4-122] In the courses, the participants learn, for one, how to handle rope and safety gear in moving safely on blue ice and on snow fields. [4-123] The final hike of a course usually is a hike over a glacier to one of the summits. [4-124] Within range of a day hike from Krossbu lie 23 peaks that are higher than 2000 meters, so here there are abundant choices. [4-125]
[4-126 |] Access [4-127] Sognefjellsveien goes by the lodge, and there is buss service. [4-128] There are marked hiking routes to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (with glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (with glacier guiding). [4-129]
[4-130 |] Facts [4-131] Krossbu tourist station started operation in 1902. [4-132 |] Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. [4-133] Krossbu tourist station is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1260 meters above sea level, and has 85 beds. [4-134 |] Tel: 61 21 29 22. [4-135]
[4-136 |] Stølsdalen [4-137 |] Fine gateway [4-138]
[4-139] If you stand over by the road down to Skålevatn, you see twinkling from the windowpanes at Stølsdalen over on the hillside, but if you start to walk there, you will soon confirm the observation that a straight line seldom is the shortest route in the mountains. [4-140] Both lakes and a series of small cliffs effectively block all attempts at a straight course; instead, it's up and down, to the left and to the right - and down again. [4-141] A couple of hours later, you've covered hardly four kilometers in a direct line, and can relax at the stonewall of Stølsdalen. [4-142] Up to 1991, the herder's hut here rested in sun baked stillness after the Ormelid farm down in Fortundalen had stopped summer dairying. [4-143] The Tourist Association, however, had long sought lodgings in this area to divide the long route between Turtagrø and Nørdstedalseter. [4-144] Instead of building new, it seemed a sensible solution to restore that which already stood on the valley's finest site. [4-145] So the sheep moved out, and the hikers moved in, literally. [4-146] The restoration was extensive and started by shoveling out sheep manure from the stone hut and dismantling most of the old stonewalls. [4-147] The building contractor subsequently managed to build anew in the old style, as all who go there can see for themselves. [4-148] The result in any case is an unusually cozy lodging, a fine gateway to the Breheimen. [4-149] The trail over Liabrekulen to Nødstedalseter passes the 1800 meter contour line with good margin, and from the summit there's a fantastic panorama towards both Jotunheimen and Breheimen. [4-150] Stølsdalen can, however, be reached from aspects other than from Skålevatn; by far most come along the marked route from the long-established Turtagrø Hotel on Sognefjellsveien. [4-151] For those not fearing uphill stretches, I would, however, recommend the hike down from Fortundalen - it goes from a valley floor that is so lush and warm that tobacco was raised there during the last war - and up the hillside through several hardiness zones to barren high mountains, and then down again to peaceful Stølsdalen. [4-152]
[4-153 |] Access [4-154] There are marked hiking routes to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalseter and Herva at Skålavatnet. [4-155]
[4-156 |] Facts
[4-157] Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is operated as a self-service cabin.
[4-158 |] Owner: DNT OA.
[4-159 |] Located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 1040 meters above sea level, and has 8 beds.
[4-160 |] Tel: None.
[4-161 |] Web:
[4-163 |] Nørdstedalseter
[4-164 |] Central in Breheimen
[4-165]
[4-166] Norway's longest fjord is named Sognefjorden.
[4-167] Innermost in it are Skjolden and Fortun, and high up in Fortundalen there's the Nørdstedalseter staffed lodge.
[4-168] For those who walk from Jotunheimen to Breheimen, this lodge is almost an obligatory place to stay.
[4-169] That's the way it's been since the first cabin with first bunks was built with DNT support in 1889.
[4-170] It was long in private ownership, but in 1928, it was taken over by the Touring Association.
[4-171] Not many years passed before the cabin had to be expanded, and since DNT's first staffed lodge in Breheimen has been modernized several times.
[4-172] Moreover, much has happened in the region around Nørdstedalseter.
[4-173] For pioneers, the crossing of Fortundalselva just below the lodge long was a risky undertaking.
[4-174] Many chose instead the tough day's march that it was to go down the sheer valley, and out to Skjolden, stay there, and afterwards climb up to the mountains again up Mørkrisdalen, instead of heading directly westwards from Nørdstedalseter.
[4-175] Today, there's a bridge over the river and a road to the lodge, and the hike westwards to Arentzbu along a cairn-marked route is estimated to take hardly seven hours.
[4-176] The road up Fortundalen came about in connection with the hydroelectric power developments of the early 1960s.
[4-177] It was, in fact, necessary to build a haul road in to the power station at Fivlemyrane.
[4-178] Driving that road to the mountains today is itself an experience.
[4-179] If not Norway's steepest road to a tourist lodge, it's not far from it, and the road runs through a fantastic waterfall landscape.
[4-180] Compared to the old fashioned cattle track up the valley through, among others, the sheer Kleppeskaret, today's road is nonetheless a pure joy, even though narrow and winding.
[4-181] In spite of the road, most overnight guests come to Nørdstedalseter on foot, and from the list below, you'll see that there are many routes to choose among.
[4-182] There also are many hike choices around Nørdstedalseter.
[4-183] Liabrekulen, Vetledalen with beautiful Grønevatn, Holåtindane, Harbardsbreen and Sveidalsbreen are realistic day hike destinations.
[4-184]
[4-185 |] Access
[4-186] There's a road to the lodge and marked hiking routes to Arentzbu, Sota Sæter, Trulsbu, Bøvertun, Krossbu, Sognefjellshytta, and Stølsdalen.
[4-187]
[4-188 |] Facts
[4-189] Nørdstedalseter was built in 1889.
[4-190 |] Owner: DNT OA.
[4-191 |] Warden: Torill Bruaas.
[4-192] The lodge is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 935 meters above sea level, and has 40 beds, including 4 in a self-service part tat can be used when the rest of the lodge is closed.
[4-193 |] Tel: 95 07 63 82.
[4-194 |] Web:
[4-196 |] Trulsbu
[4-197 |] Ties together
[4-198]
[4-199] Medalsbu uppermost in Middalen never was a success for DNT.
[4-200] It was built in 1938 and shut down in 1957.
[4-201] Staying at 1346 meters above sea level in these parts of Breheimen apparently didn't appeal to many, and today only ruins remain of the lodge.
[4-202] The concept of the lodge was, however, good.
[4-203] Aside from being located in the middle of a magnificent hiking area, it was intended to divide the long hike from Skjåk through Lundadalen to Nørdstedalseter, in two manageable day marches.
[4-204] This is an old throughfare between Vestland and Østland that more should experience.
[4-205] But Medalsbu was to close to Nørdstedalseter nd to far from Skjåk to be a suitable overnight lodging for the hike.
[4-206] When DNT again brushed the dust off these plans in the 1980s, it consequently was natural to seek a site closer to Sjåk, down in Lundadalen.
[4-207] However, it was hopeless to find an avalanche-safe site to build upon, so the choice then was of Vesledalen, slightly closer to Lundadalsbandet.
[4-208] In 1988, the self-service cabin was finished, safely located at the foot of the stately Vesledalstinden.
[4-209] The name Trusbu was given to the cabin, after Truls Kierulf, who actively worked to unite tourist associations of Norway, and a cabin that ties Skjåk and Luster together is therefore a fitting commemoration of him.
[4-210] Trullsbu has rapidly become considerably more popular than its predecessor.
[4-211] Particularly in the spring of the year, there are many who stay at the cabin after having done the classic tour over Lomseggen and Hestbrepiggane.
[4-212] In good weather and snow conditions, you can go over at least eight different summits over 2000 meters in the course of a long day from to Trulsbu.
[4-213] Holåtindane on the south side also attract many hikers, both spring and summer.
[4-214] Particularly Tussetind is splendid.
[4-215] It's named after mountaineering pioneer Therese Berteau.
[4-216] Moreover, two other Holåtinder also may tempt today's hikers, and a side trip northwards to the 2085 meter high Hestdalgshøgdi is within range for a day hike from Trulsbu.
[4-217]
[4-218 |] Access
[4-219] There are marked hiking routes to Sota Sæter, Skjåk, and Nørdstedalseter.
[4-220]
[4-221 |] Facts
[4-222] Trulsbu was built in 1988 and is operated as a self-service cabin.
[4-223 |] Owner: DNT OA.
[4-224] The cabin is located in Skjåk Township in Oppland, 1290 meters above sea level, and has 12 beds.
[4-225 |] Tel: None.
[4-226 |] Web:
[4-228 |] Jotunheimen fjellstue
[4-229 |] Access
[4-230] Sognefjellsveien goes by the lodge, and there is buss service.
[4-231]
[4-232 |] Facts
[4-233] The lodge was opened in 1946.
[4-234 |] Owners: Åse Wiker, Gøril Wiker, Arne Magnus and Petter Gudmundahl.
[4-235] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds.
[4-236 |] Tel: 61 21 29 18.
[4-237 |] E-Mail: info@jotunheimen-fjellstue.no
[4-238 |] Web: www.jotunheimen-fjellstue.no
[4-239]
[4-240 |] Røisheim
[4-241 |] Access
[4-242] Sognefjellsveien goes by the lodge, and there is buss service.
[4-243] From Røisheim, there is an old hiking route to Juvasshytta.
[4-244]
[4-245 |] Facts
[4-246] The lodge began receiving guests in 1858.
[4-247] Owner: Røisheim Eiendom AS.
[4-248] Hosts: Ingrid og Haavard Lunde.
[4-249] The lodge is located in Lom township in Oppland, 540 meters above sea level, and has 48 beds.
[4-250] Tel: 61 21 20 31.
[4-251 |] E-Mail:r-drif-a@online.no
[4-252 |] Web: www.roisheim.no
[4-253]
[4-254 |] Leirvassbu See description in brochure 3
[4-255 |] Access
[4-256] There's a road to the lodge.
[4-257]
[4-258 |] Facts
[4-259] Leirvassbu was built as a stone hut in 1875 by DNT.
[4-260] The first tourist lodge was finished in 1906.
[4-261] Owner: Åmund Elveseter.
[4-262] Wardens: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen.
[4-263] The lodge is located in Lom township in Oppland, 1405 meters above sea level, and has 190 beds.
[4-264 |] Tel: 61 21 29 32.
[4-265 |] E-Mail: lvassbu@online.no
[4-266]
[4-267 |] Bøvertun fjellstugu
[4-268 |] Access
[4-269] Sognefjellsveien goes by the lodge, and there is bus service.
[4-270] There are marked hiking trails from Nørdstedalseter, Sognefjellhytta, and Krossbu.
[4-271]
[4-272 |] Facts
[4-273] The lodge was opened in 1864.
[4-274] Owners: Kjellfrid and Johan Engen.
[4-275] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 950 meters above sea level, and has 76 beds.
[4-276] Tel: 61 21 29 24.
[4-277 |] Web: http//home.sol.no/~bovertun
[4-278]
[4-279 |] Raubergstulen turisthytte
[4-280 |] Access
[4-281] A road with bus service goes by the lodge, and there's an old hiking route to the lodge from Røisheim and Juvasshytta.
[4-282]
[4-283 |] Facts
[4-284] The lodge began receiving guests around 1950.
[4-285] Owner: Borgny og Magnar Mundhjeld.
[4-286] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 185 beds.
[4-287] Tel: 61 21 12 93.
[4-288] E-Mail: rauberg@online.no
[4-289]
[4-290 |] Fannaråken See description in brochure 3
[4-291 |] Access
[4-292] There are marked hiking routes to Turtagrø, Sognefjellet and Skogadalsbøen.
[4-293]
[4-294 |] Facts
[4-295] Fannaråkhytta has received tourists since 1926.
[4-296] Owner: DNT OA.
[4-297] The cabin is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 2068 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds.
[4-298 |] Tel: 941 35 993.
[4-299 |] Web:
[4-301 |] Elveseter hotell
[4-302 |] Access
[4-303] Sognefjellsveien goes by the lodge, and there is buss service.
[4-304] There's a marked hiking route from Juvasshytta.
[4-305]
[4-306 |] Facts
[4-307] The hotel has received guests from about 1880.
[4-308] Owner: Elvesetter family.
[4-309] Warden: Rogne Elveseter.
[4-310] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 670 meters above sea level, and has 240 beds.
[4-311] Tel: 61 21 20 00.
[4-312 |] Web:
[4-314 |] Turtagrø, the climbers' hotel
[4-315 |] Access
[4-316] Sognefjellsveien goes by the hotel.
[4-317] There are marked hiking routes to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu, and Stølsdalen.
[4-318] The road over Sognefjellet is closed in winter, but usually plowed up to Turtagrø.
[4-319]
[4-320 |] Facts
[4-321] Turtagrø was built in 1888.
[4-322] The hotel is owned and operated by Ole Berge Drægni.
[4-323 |] The hotel is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 884 meters above sea level, and has 80 beds.
[4-324 |] Tel: 57 68 61 16.
[4-325 |] E-Mail: turtagro@online.no
[4-326 |] Web: www.skjolden.com/bylus/turtagro.html
[4-327]
[4-328 |] Pick hikes prudently
[4-329] Planning a suitable hike is in many ways like putting together a successful dinner.
[4-330] It's best to start with a small appetizer to prepare the body for the main dish, and a dessert always has a good effect, as a sort of reward for having stayed the course.
[4-331] When I have chosen suggested hikes in these brochures, I have tried to remember just that.
[4-332] Hikes should be varied and under way have high points in more than the literal sense.
[4-333] Hopefully, I have succeeded.
[4-334] In any event, there are enough choices whether you prefer several appetizers, large main courses or tantalizing desserts.
[4-335] The various hike menus are detailed so you can also walk them in the opposite direction or combine parts of several menus to your own variant.
[4-336] Concerning the details of the hike menus, distances of the suggested legs are stated in hours.
[4-337] For a newcomer in the mountains, that may seem strange.
[4-338] But that's the way it is in Norwegian mountains.
[4-339] The terrain is so varied that meters and kilometers mislead.
[4-340] It's meaningless to compare a thousand meters in steep talus with a kilometer's stroll in Frogner Park.
[4-341] The time that the average hiker must reckon on using is much more relevant for most of us.
[4-342] Hour figures and overviews of the marked routes are also given on the map in back of the brochure.
[4-343] When you read about the various suggested hikes, you should follow them on the map.
[4-344] Route descriptions are much more interesting in that way.
[4-345] If you wish to know even more about the area where you will walk, you should be a member of DNT and buy "Til fots I Norge."
[4-346] In it all the marked routes are described, and the book also includes many other details on Jotunheimen and other mountain areas.
[4-347] Before you grab the menu, just one more thing: Remember that it's fine to be full, but uncomfortable to overeat.
[4-348]
[4-349 |] Hike degree of difficulty
[4-350 |] g = EASY
[4-351 |] gg = MEDIUM
[4-352 |] ggg = DIFFICULT
[4-353]
[4-354 |] To the summit of Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen
[4-355 |] Hike 4a - 1 day - gg - guide available
[4-356]
[4-357] In 1844, professor B.M. Keilhau, "Jotunheimen's discoverer," and some of his students stayed at Spiterstulen.
[4-358] They tried to climb Galdhøpiggen, but turned back at the promontory, which since has been named Kielhaus peak.
[4-359] The first ascent was in 1850, and it was three Bøverdalers who performed the feat.
[4-360] They were the warden of Spiterstulen, Steinar Sulheim, and two teachers from Bøverdalen, J. Arnesen and J. Flåten.
[4-361] As early as 1855, the first tourist, Axel Arbo, got to the summit, and several others wanted to have a go at it.
[4-362] For many years, guides went on "Piggen" from Spiterstulen, but today it's not usual to use a guide on this stretch.
[4-363] On the other hand, Spiterstulen has daily glacier guiding on Svellnosbreen, see Hike 4c.
[4-364] One of the routes that the guides use is to walk up the entire icefall, and then continue up in the saddle between Kielhaus peak and Galdhøpiggen.
[4-365] From there, it's a short trip to the summit of "Piggen."
[4-366] The return then is down the customary route to Spiterstulen.
[4-367]
[4-368 |] 1. Spiterstulen to Galdhøpiggen
[4-369] The normal way to Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen goes right up the hillside.
[4-370] After crossing Visa on a bridge, you soon start the climb to the summit.
[4-371] First, the route goes up along Piggrovi, and then after a short kilometer, there's a fork to the route to Juvasshytta.
[4-372] From Svellnoså, the route goes partly in talus and snowfields to the top of Kielhaus peak.
[4-373] There may be crevasses, so follow the marking carefully.
[4-374] From the promontory, it's slightly downhill before you tackle the last uphill up to Norway's highest peak.
[4-375]
[4-376 |] Lodges on Galdhøpiggen
[4-377] Save for a five-year period from 1970 to 1975, there's been a house on Galdhøpiggen since 1888.
[4-378] Knud O. Vole at Juvasshytta built the first one.
[4-379] In 1925, Lars Sulheim at Spiterstulen put up a log cabin, Steinarstugu, on the summit.
[4-380] Knut K. Vole put up a new lodge in 1926.
[4-381] In a period in the 1950s, Steinarstugu had its own hosts and also had the status of a "Post office" with its own postmark.
[4-382] In 1960, even the people who operated Volehytte began serving food to tourists.
[4-383] However, the end came quickly for both: On Palm Sunday 1961, Steinarstugu was blown away; the remains were found as far away as Smiugjelet east of Visdalen.
[4-384] In the winter of 1970, wind destroyed Volehytta.
[4-385] In 1975, a new lodge of glass and stone was finished, designed by Torbjørn Fjeldstad.
[4-386] The proprietors then were Ragnhhild and Tora Vole.
[4-387]
[4-388 |] Facts
[4-389 |] Lengths
[4-390] Spiterstulen - Galdhøpiggen, 4 hours up, 2 hours down.
[4-391]
[4-392 |] Lodgings
[4-393 |] Spiterstulen
[4-394]
[4-395 |] Public transportation
[4-396] There's a road and buss service to the lodge.
[4-397]
[4-398 |] To the summit of Galdhøpiggen from Juvasshytta
[4-399]
[4-400 |] Hike 4b - 1 day - gg - guide available
[4-401]
[4-402 |] 1. Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen
[4-403] The first ascent of Galdhøpiggen was from Spiterstulen, but the host at Røisheim, Ole Røisheim, soon found a direct route to the summit from his place, and many hired him to be guided to the summit.
[4-404] The route from Røisheim still is marked, but it little used after the road came to Juvasshytta.
[4-405] The route goes up the hillside from Røisheim, past Raubergstulen and Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen, and takes about 8 hours.
[4-406] It's absolutely worth trying the pioneer's hike; remember that before Juvasshytta was opened in 1884, hikers had to go up and down in one day!
[4-407] After Juvasshytta opened and with time got a road, increasingly more have chosen to start the hike to Galdhøpiggen from this side.
[4-408] As Juvasshytta is located more than 700 meters higher than Spiterstulen, that's not so odd.
[4-409] Most who want to go to Galdhøpiggen today choose to follow a guide to the summit from Juvasshytta.
[4-410] In the summer season, guides leave every day at 10.00 and 11.30, and extra trips are also arranged.
[4-411] Booking via Juvasshytta.
[4-412] The route to Norway's highest peak goes over Juvflya and in on Styggebreen.
[4-413] Here there are many crevasses, and they are often hidden by snow.
[4-414] If you don't follow a guide, you therefore must be proficient in glacier hiking and have the relevant safety equipment.
[4-415] The route continues up Galdhøpiggen's northern spur and steeply up the ridge to the summit.
[4-416] On the summit there's a small cafeteria.
[4-417] Most who follow a guide to the summit return the same way, but it's also possible to continue the hike from the top down to Spiterstulen along the marked route over Kielhaus Peak, see Hike 4a.
[4-418]
[4-419 |] A highpoint
[4-420] Knud Vole was both the founder of Juvasshytta and a legendary guide on Galdhøpiggen.
[4-421] In his day, ascending the summit was regarded to be quite a feat, and a celebration was part of it, both on Piggen itself and safely down at Juvasshytta in the evening.
[4-422] Just see what a large party relates from the summit on 21 July 1898:
[4-423] "... we had really bad weather, but in spite of everything were in high spirits, particularly with the aid of 2 1/2 bottles of Champagne, 2 bottles of port wine and 1 bottle of sherry as well as some of the party's entertaining talents."
[4-424] Might it be wise to postpone most of the celebration until you're back at Juvasshytta?
[4-425]
[4-426 |] Facts
[4-427 |] Lengths
[4-428] Juvasshytta - Galdhøpiggen, 3 hours up, 2 hours down.
[4-429]
[4-430 |] Lodgings
[4-431] Juvasshytta and Raubergstulen.
[4-432]
[4-433 |] Public transportation
[4-434] Road and bus service to Juvasshytta.
[4-435]
[4-436 |] Transverse glacier tour
[4-437 |] Hike 4c - 4-5 days - gg - guide available
[4-438]
[4-439] You can go quite a bit on glaciers in Jotunheimen without having taken a glacier course.
[4-440] Guides go on most of the glaciers, and a hike where you follow several of them is a real gem.
[4-441]
[4-442 |] 1. Spiterstulen to Leirvassbu
[4-443] Preferably you should start this hike, which will take you over several glaciers, with a little glacier hike.
[4-444] It's extremely popular to walk on the glacier ice of Svellnosbreen, and it's a good idea to set aside a day to join Spiterstulen's guide on such a tour (see box).
[4-445] The hike to Leirvassbu also is a splendid experience.
[4-446] The walk through Visdalen is said by many to be Jotunheimen's "glory lap", and with good reason.
[4-447] The valley is broad and splendid, the trail is good, and peaks rise on both sides.
[4-448] After a couple of kilometers, you can see the remains of the first Spiterstulen, under Styggehø on the other side of the river.
[4-449] There's a bridge over Hellstuguåa, and after a couple of kilometers, the trail from Leirvassbu splits off from the one towards Gjendebu.
[4-450] You should hold to the right.
[4-451] Further into the valley, you pass the river from Smelholtjønnet, and you must cross the upper part of Visa; both rivers usually are easily crossed on stones.
[4-452] Up in Kyrkjeglupen, there's some rough talus, but it's not hard to follow the marking that runs on the north side of Kyrkjetjørna and four other smaller lakes.
[4-453] After a while, you'll see Leirvassbu on the other side of Liervatnet, and soon you'll be there.
[4-454]
[4-455 |] 2. Leirvassbu to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta
[4-456] Every morning at about 09.30 in the summer season from early July to mid august, a guide starts from Leirvassbu to take hikers westwards over Smørstabbreen.
[4-457] At the same time, a guide starts from Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta to take hikers eastwards over the glacier.
[4-458] You can book the hike at all three lodges the previous evening.
[4-459] Following a guide across the glacier is a splendid alternative for more than those who lack glacier skills; neither is it particularly expensive.
[4-460] The guide carries rope, crampons, and the relevant safety equipment.
[4-461] The route goes up to 1800 meters above sea level and is demanding in poor weather, so be extra careful to take along proper windproof clothing, rainwear and warm garments.
[4-462] The first few kilometers from Leirvassbu to up in the gap, you can either walk the old haul road in the valley, or walk along a trail that runs more or less parallel with the road.
[4-463] Thereafter, you veer up the hillside toward the saddle between Stetind and Surtningstind.
[4-464] First, the route crosses the steep Surtningsbreen, which can be slippery and difficult when the snow is hard.
[4-465] Thereafter, you'll go down on Sandelvbrean and then up the glacier under Storebjørn; be careful here, as there usually are some crevasses.
[4-466] The route then goes northwestwards over the glacier slightly west of Kalven before it begins to go downward again.
[4-467] The descent on the west side usually is on the north side of Bøverbreen.
[4-468] Well down on the glacier, you must decide on you will stay at Krossbu or at Sognefjellhytta.
[4-469] It's a bit farther to the latter when you walk over the glacier in this direction.
[4-470]
[4-471 |] 3. Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu to Fannaråkhytta
[4-472 |] There's a marked route from both tourist lodges to the edge of Fannaråkbreen.
[4-473] The routes meet before Prestesteinsvatnet and run together to the glacier.
[4-474] If you wish to cross the glacier, you either should have glacier skills and the requisite equipment or follow a guide.
[4-475] There's daily guiding from early July to late August.
[4-476] The guide lives at Fannaråken and picks up hikers at the lower glacier edge at 13.00.
[4-477] You should give notice the previous evening if you wish to have guiding to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta.
[4-478] The route over the glacier is steep in the beginning but then gentler.
[4-479] There are both crevasses and water pools that can be covered by snow, so be watchful.
[4-480] The route goes towards the steep east flank of Fannaråken, and it is somewhat slanted and steep toward the end before you get to the ridge and meet the route from Skogadalsbøen.
[4-481] From Fannaråknosi up to the lodge there is a trail on a plateau with a splendid view.
[4-482]
[4-483 |] 4. Fannaråkhytta to Turtagrø
[4-484] If the visibility is good at Fannaråken, it can be a late evening and the same for the departure from such a place, as here there's much grand mountain scenery to admire around the horizon.
[4-485] But that doesn't matter much, as the hike to Turtagrø is unusually easy.
[4-486] First, it gradually and nicely down the ridge on the west side of Fannaråken; there are a lot of stones, but the trail is solid.
[4-487] After passing Ekrehytta, it continues down into Helgedalen.
[4-488] There's a fairly newly built farm road which is easy to follow all the way to the lodges a ways out in the valley.
[4-489] There you leave the road and follow the trail another kilometer around the bend and to Turtagrø.
[4-490] Regrettably, Turtagrø hotel burned down in January 2001.
[4-491] So there'll be temporary lodgings for a while, while building goes on.
[4-492] Check the situation in advance with DNT or directly with the hotel.
[4-493]
[4-494] Svellnosbreen and other splendors.
[4-495] There's an abundance of day hike options around Spiterstulen; Svellnosbreen undoubtedly is among the most popular.
[4-496] Many mountain hikers have gained their first glacier skills on this glacier, that lies under the south wall of Galdhøpiggen.
[4-497] From 1949 on, guides from Spiterstulen have taken thousands of hikers onto the jumbled icefall.
[4-498] Through labyrinths of deep crevasses, sharp ridges and narrow snow bridges, hikers walk with crampons, roped together with a guide, far into the crevasse area.
[4-499] Glacier hiking alternates between deep, green grottos under the glacier, with meter-high, mighty icicles and towers and spires up in daylight.
[4-500] The ice formations have been given names such as Kjellargluggen, Soria Moria Slott, Halli, Labyrinten, Det Glade Hjørnet, Perleporten, etc.
[4-501] Undoubtedly the hike to the "Ice wonderland" has helped trigger the upswing in interest in glacier sports in Norway.
[4-502]
[4-503 |] Lengths
[4-504 |] Olavsbu - Leirvassbu, 5 hours
[4-505 |] Leirvassbu - Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta, 6 hours
[4-506 |] Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu - Fannaråkhytta, 5 hours
[4-507] Fannaråkhytta - Turtagrø, 3 hours down, 4 hours up.
[4-508]
[4-509 |] Lodgings
[4-510 |] Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta, and Turtagrø.
[4-511] The last one is somewhat uncertain as of March 2001.
[4-512]
[4-513 |] Public transportation
[4-514] There's a road and buss service to all lodges save Fannaråkhytta.
[4-515]
[4-516 |] A taste of Breheimen
[4-517 |] Hike 4d - 2-3 days - gg - ggg
[4-518] The area northwest of Jotunheimen bears the name Breheimen.
[4-519] The terrain differs not so much between the two mountain ranges, as in both there are glaciers and mountains that dominate, while there also are deep, lush valleys and considerable contrasts.
[4-520] I have laid out a couple of hikes to the north of Sognefjellvein that should give a decent impression of the scenery of Breheimen, and start with a round tour of three staffed lodges.
[4-521]
[4-522 |] 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Nørdstedalseter
[4-523] This is the longest leg of the round tour, and many surely think that 8 hours of walking is a bit strenuous.
[4-524] However, it's possible to make the leg a bit shorter.
[4-525] About three kilometers west of Sognefjellhytte, there's actually an old haul road in to Storevatnet.
[4-526] Its fully drivable and not closed.
[4-527] You can drive to the end of the road, park and return to that point after having done the round tour via Bøvertun.
[4-528] In that way you save a couple of hours walking to Nørdstedalseter.
[4-529] Those who have no car can ask for a ride from the hosts at Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta.
[4-530] The usual routes from Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta meet, by the way, west of Krosshø.
[4-531] After a short kilometer, there's a fork with the route to Bøvertun.
[4-532] The route goes in nooks and crannies here, but that's necessary, as there are many cliffs and side valleys in the area.
[4-533] The trail goes to a dam at the southern end of Storevatnet and over it, and then there are more nooks and crannies to get around Kjerringhetta.
[4-534] Thereafter, it heads north, relatively steeply uphill over a ridge, usually over some snowfields and then slightly downhill to a fork toward Bøvertun.
[4-535] You turn westward and down towards Liabrevatnet, which you pass on its north side at the outlet.
[4-536] You often must wade the stream from the lake.
[4-537] Then the route goes up again and over another ridge.
[4-538] Fortunately you can appreciate the fine view towards Liabreen and Liabrevatnet.
[4-539] But it's downhill for the rest of the hike, first past Øvre Grønevatnet on the west side, and then Nedre Grønevatnet on the north side.
[4-540] From there, the route continues onward on an easy trail through Vetledalen to Nørdstedalseter.
[4-541]
[4-542 |] 2. Nørdstedalseter to Bøvertun
[4-543] The meters you went down toward the end of the hike when you came from Sognefjellet, must now be regained to get to Bøvertun.
[4-544] Up on Tverrbyttfjellet, the route divides, and you, who are going to Bøvertun, should hold to the left.
[4-545] The trail soon goes steeply downhill and past the northern end of Storevatn.
[4-546] Thereafter it's a bit hilly for a couple of kilometers before it again goes steeply downhill and down to Bøvertun, which is located in a green and lush place at the southern end of a beautiful lake.
[4-547]
[4-548 |] 3. Bøvertun to Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta
[4-549] Bøvertun is located on Sognefjellveien, so it is, of course, possible to finish the hike here, but I recommend that you go on foot back to the starting point, as you then will, for one, experience the beautiful Dumnmdalen with its remarkable grottos (see box).
[4-550] The hike starts from the State highway about 500 m south of the lodge.
[4-551] You follow Dummdalen to Svarttjørna.
[4-552] Further south, the route runs in hilly terrain up to a fork with the route between Sognefjellet and Nørdstedalseter.
[4-553] If you parked your car at Storevatnet, take the route to the right, if you aim for the lodges on Sognefjellveien, choose the route to the left.
[4-554] After a short kilometer, the route again divides; Krossbu to the left, Sognefjellhytta to the right.
[4-555]
[4-556 |] Dummdalsgrottene
[4-557] In the lower part of Dummdalen lie southern Norway's largest system of grottos.
[4-558] They were formed by a river that has dug and pierced into the calcareous ground for thousands of years.
[4-559] To date, there are markers in six of the grottos, and the largest is more than 250 meters long.
[4-560] The first is located right by Sognefjellsveien.
[4-561] The entryways are mostly narrow, and rocks can fall from the ceiling in a grotto, so be cautious!
[4-562] Guided tours are available to the grottos.
[4-563] Information is available at Jotunheimen Reiseliv in Lom.
[4-564]
[4-565 |] Lengths
[4-566 |] Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta - Nørdstedalseter, 8 hours
[4-567 |] Bøvertun - Nørdstedalseter, 6 hours
[4-568 |] Bøvertun - Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta, 5 hours
[4-569]
[4-570 |] Lodgings
[4-571] Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Nørdstedalseter, and Bøvertun.
[4-572]
[4-573 |] Public transportation
[4-574] Road and bus service along Sognefjellet.
[4-575] Road to Nørdstedalseter.
[4-576]
[4-577 |] Main route to Breheimen
[4-578 |] Hike 4e - 3-4 days - gg - ggg
[4-579]
[4-580] Without belittlement of any of the other routes between Jotunheimen and Breheimen, I maintain that the finest gateway is from Turtagrø over Liabrekulen to Nørdstedalseter.
[4-581] The route over the 1800 meter high glacier is splendid.
[4-582] After the self-service cabin Stølsdalen was opened, the distance between lodges is not so great.
[4-583] This map covers only to Nørdstedalseter and Trulsbu, but the hike in Breheimen need not finish there.
[4-584] Both westward and northward in Breheimen there are marked routes and lodges, so get more maps and come also to know this fine area.
[4-585]
[4-586 |] 1.Turtagrø to Stølsdalen
[4-587] Turtagrø burned down in January 2001, so if you plan to spend the night there, you should check the situation in advance.
[4-588] Fortunately, the first leg isn't longer than you'll manage it even though you start relatively late.
[4-589] The route starts steeply up a slope just below Turtagrø and up to a stone dump before you continue into Gjesingedalen.
[4-590] The river through the valley usually is not difficult to cross on stones.
[4-591] After Skålabotnskaret, you come to the abandoned Skålbotn summer dairy.
[4-592] From here, the terrain is quite rugged and steep, so you must carefully follow the marking.
[4-593] The river in the floor of the valley can usually be crossed on stones.
[4-594] Then its upwards again after the old cattle track to the lodge.
[4-595] Be aware that if the power company discharges water in the river, you cannot cross, but must follow the old path up past Nedre Skålavatnet to the trail from Sognefjellet to Stølsdalen.
[4-596] Fortunately, that happens seldom in summer.
[4-597]
[4-598 |] 1. Alternative Fortundalen to Stølsdalen
[4-599] Instead of starting from Turtagrø, you can follow the marked route to Stølsdalen down from Svensøy in Fortundalen.
[4-600] The hike takes just as much time to walk; it is shorter, but entails a considerably greater elevation difference.
[4-601] It may also be an alternative if you will end the hike at Stølsdalen.
[4-602] The route goes first on a road and past a bridge over Granfasta.
[4-603] Thereafter it follows the old cattle track past Nedstestølen and Øvstestølen, and follows the so-called Bjørnstigen over the ridge to the lodge.
[4-604 |] 2. Stølsdalen to Nørdstedalseter
[4-605] This is the high point of the hike, literally.
[4-606] From the lodge, the route goes mostly in a steady incline, first past a fork for the marking back to Skålvatnet, and then onwards up to the headwall of Liabreen.
[4-607] At the height of Liaflua, the route goes over a small glacier, so follow the marking carefully!
[4-608] Accordingly, it's not just because of the fantastic view that you experience on the way that this is a route that you shouldn't do in poor visibility weather.
[4-609] The marking passes a short kilometer west of the headwall of Liabreen.
[4-610] From there, the route goes steeply onward between the glacier and Tverrdalsnosi, but you don't get to the glacier itself.
[4-611] The marking continues steeply down towards Vetledalen, where there's a place to wade the river.
[4-612] In the stretch of a few kilometers you can experience the entire spectrum, from full winter up on top to full summer down in Vetledalen.
[4-613] After crossing Vetledøla, you come in on the route from Sognefjellet (see Hike 4d) and continue along it down the valley to Nordstedalseter.
[4-614]
[4-615 |] 3. Nørdstedalseter to Trulsbu
[4-616] Even though it's almost ten kilometers on a haul road for the first part of this hike, don't let it frighten you.