[1-20 |] Access [1-21] Automobile road and bus connections to the lodge. [1-22] Marked hiking trails to Bessheim, Glitterheim, Memurubu, Haugseter and Sikkilsdalsseter. [1-23]
[1-24 |] Facts [1-25] Gjendesheim was opened in 1878. [1-26 |] Owner: DNT OA. [1-27] Managers: Bjørg Aaseng and Olav Gaute Vole. [1-28] The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 995 meters above sea level, and has 185 beds. [1-29] Tel. : 61 23 89 10. [1-30 |] E-mail: gjheim@online.no [1-31 |] Web: www.dntoa.no [1-32]
[1-33 |] Bessheim [1-34 |] Old Mountain Farm [1-35] The first tourist hikers who came to Sjodalen around the mid-1800's came from Sikkilsdalen. [1-36] They hiked through the gorge and down toward Øvre Sjodalsvatn. [1-37] On its western bank there were three mountain farms lying almost next to one another. [1-38] The one that has become Bessheim tourist lodge has belonged to the Storvik farm in Vågå since about 1865 and has been owned by the same family the entire time. [1-39] Also during hiking tourism's infancy, the area around Gjende was among Norway's most popular hiking region, and it was not without cause that DNT's first marked route was laid out in 1874 from Bessheim and across Veslefjell and Besseggen to Memurubu. [1-40] Moreover, it was Jens Tronhus from the neighboring farm who completed the job. [1-41] From 1948 to 1998, Kari and Knut Lund operated Bessheim. [1-42] They were the right people in the right location. [1-43] They met all challenges, one after the other, arranged for establishment of electricity and a better road, and they steadily expanded and modernized the tourist lodge. [1-44] The lodge was then, and is now, popular, and hiking opportunities are abundant. [1-45] Here one can go hiking in any weather conditions. [1-46] If it is windy in the high mountains, there are ample opportunities down through Sjodalen, and if the weather gods are on one's side, there is a row of Jotunheimen's mountain peaks located within reach for day trips from Bessheim. [1-47] For example, Besshø and Nautgardstind are both natural hiking goals out of Bessheim, and on the other side of Sjodalen, Heimdalshø beckons. [1-48] If you don't want to go that far, Besstrondrundhø is an excellent alternative. [1-49] It is not higher than 1421 meters but offers a superb panorama toward both Galdhøpiggen and Rondane. [1-50] Not far from Bessheim is Vågå municipality's excellent cultural trail, Huldrestigen. [1-51] If you would rather go fishing, there are opportunities in both Øvre Sjodalsvatn and Bessvatn. [1-52]
[1-53 |] Access [1-54] Automobile road and bus connections past the lodge. [1-55] Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Memurubu and Glitterheim. [1-56]
[1-57 |] Facts [1-58] Bessheim has hosted tourists since the mid-1800's. [1-59] The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 960 meters above sea level, and has 150 beds. [1-60] Owners: Kari and Knut Lund. [1-61] Managers: Magni and Bernt Jo Vole. [1-62 |] Tel. : 61 23 89 13. [1-63 |] E-mail : post@bessheim.no [1-64]
[1-65 |] Glitterheim [1-66 |] A Centenary Institution [1-67] In 2001, Glitterheim rounded the hundred-year mark, but it is actually much older. [1-68] Already during the historical age of migration, hunters found shelter underneath boulders located below where the tourist lodge stands today. [1-69] With a little cooperation, there is room for four persons to spend the night. [1-70] The ceiling blackened by smoke is an indication that many people have used the overhanging rock up through the ages (see photo p. 2). [1-71] Judging by all the reindeer hunting pits that have been found in and around Veodalen, this area was an important source of food. [1-72] In the 1800's hunters decided to provide better shelter for themselves. [1-73] About 1880, a stone hunting lodge was built, but its use for this purpose was short-lived. [1-74] Already in 1898, DNT purchased the lodge for use as an accommodation for tourists, or more correctly, as shelter for builders of a tourist lodge. [1-75] Good overnight accommodations between Sjodalen and Visdalen were lacking, and a lodge at the foot of Glittertind was considered to be convenient. [1-76] Transportation of materials and equipment from the village and into the long Veodalen valley, as well as the construction of the tourist lodge itself, took a long time. [1-77] It wasn't until 1901 that the first Glitterheim lodge was ready to house tourists. [1-78] Ever since 1910, the Vole family has managed the lodge. [1-79] Since 1973, Ole and Solveig Vole have been at the helm. [1-80] It is in no small measure due to their efforts that Glitterheim is known as a very pleasant place to stay. [1-81] The lodge has been greatly developed up through the years, but opportunities for hikers in Veodalen are much the same as earlier, with trips to the mountaintops and along glaciers, with Glittertind as the most important peak to reach. [1-82] And if you do not want to climb Glittertind, there are scores of other hiking possibilities around Glitterheim. [1-83] Hikers in reasonably good shape do Nautgardstind and Stormubben, on the eastern side of the valley, in a day. [1-84] Not quite as high, but perhaps just as impressive, is a trip up Styggehø or Hestlegerhø. [1-85] If you have glacier hiking skills or follow the lodge's guide, the glaciers on the western side are tempting, with their abundant Veo and Memuru peaks. [1-86]
[1-87 |] Access [1-88] There is a road right to the door, but from the border of the national park it is closed to normal traffic. [1-89] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Bessheim, Memurubu and Spiterstulen. [1-90]
[1-91 |] Facts [1-92] Glitterheim was formally opened in 1901. [1-93] Owner: DNT OA. [1-94] Managers: Solveig and Ole Vole. [1-95 |] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1348 meters above sea level, and has 137 beds, as well as 8 more in the self-service annex. [1-96 |] Tel. : 61 23 18 33. [1-97 |] E-mail: glheim@online.no [1-98 |] Web:www.dntoa.no «hytter» [1-99]
[1-100 |] Memurubu [1-101 |] Right on Gjende Lake [1-102] The name Memurubu means something like "shelter by the river that delves through the middle", and this is a fairly precise description of the surroundings at Memurubu on Gjende Lake. [1-103] Anyone coming over the mountain down toward the lodge will see how much sand and gravel the river has carried with it across Gjende up through time. [1-104] If it continues its work for a few more millennia, it will undoubtedly divide Gjende in two. [1-105] The combination of the river's efforts and the favorable climate has also made the outermost portion of Memuru Valley unusually inviting, green and fertile. [1-106] The first stone lodge here was built in the 1700's and was taken over by DNT in 1870. [1-107] Three Englishmen were responsible for putting Memurubu on the map. [1-108] In the humorous book «Three in Norway, by Two of Them», they describe graphically their experiences as tourists at Gjende in 1880. [1-109] They stayed at Memurubu for several weeks while they hunted and fished. [1-110] Vestiges from the Englishmen's stay may be seen on the grounds just below the tourist lodge; the stone oven they used for baking is still there. [1-111] As the flow of tourists increased and DNT opened larger tourist lodges at both ends of Gjende Lake, the stone cabin's one room with a fireplace and two single beds were no longer adequate. [1-112] Many breathed a sigh of relief then, when Ole Sveine from Lom undertook the task of building and operating a tourist lodge here. [1-113] In 1884, his tourist station opened for business on the fertile hillside above the river delta at Gjende. [1-114] Like other tourist lodges around this unrivaled mountain lake, this building also proved too small, and the lodge was expanded several times, most recently in 1993 when a completely new main building was constructed. [1-115] Although the lodge has changed, it is nonetheless the same family that has operated it since all the way back to 1870, and who still welcome guests. [1-116] Most guests naturally choose to hike to Besseggen or to Bukkelægeret, but Memurubu has many other places to visit, such as the nearby glaciers, mountaintops and valleys. [1-117]
[1-118 |] Gjendebu [1-119 |] DNT's Oldest Lodge [1-120] Exactly when the first of our ancestors found their way all the way into the western end of Gjende is unknown, but it is certain that the first mountain farms were built in here as early as around the beginning of the 1700's. [1-121] Mountain farmers came down from as far as Bøverdalen. [1-122] The mountain road must have been primitive, but the farmers nonetheless insisted on keeping their mountain farms, because the grazing here was very fine. [1-123] Because of this, when the first tourists began to come to this part of Jotunheimen sometime during the 1800's, it was possible to find shelter in the primitive mountain farm buildings. [1-124] Hikers of that time were of course accustomed to the range of «simple accommodations in the Norwegian mountains», but Gjendesæteren was still too primitive for many. [1-125] Certain people characterized the mountain shelters as «a pile of stones». [1-126] Despite this, interest in the area was so keen that the newly established DNT decided already during its second annual meeting to provide better accommodations for tourist hikers in this area. [1-127] At the eastern end, Bessheim offered excellent overnight accommodations, so that DNT voted at its annual meeting in 1869 to build a lodge at the western end. [1-128] This was DNT's third lodge project. [1-129] The two others have been either abandoned or sold, while Gjendebu is definitely doing very well still today. [1-130] The new Gjendebu was completed in the fall of 1871, but the new lodge soon proved to be too small, so DNT bought a stone dwelling from Erik Hansen Slaalien for 10 spesidalers. [1-131] The same man was hired as manager, and his daughter was born in the stone building at Gjendebu and christened Gjendine. [1-132] A little over 130 years later, the «pile of stones» has developed considerably. [1-133] After a number of renovations, the buildings so rich in tradition comprise an exceptionally harmonious complex of lodges that are pleasing to visitors. [1-134] The natural surroundings are impressively attractive and pleasurable. [1-135] Many people have been inspired by this kind of envir0nment, and several artists have tried to capture the natural beauty in words, tones and paint on canvas. [1-136] Few have succeeded at it better than Edvard Grieg, who visited Gjendebu a number of times toward the end of the 19th century. [1-137] He must have found much inspiration here for his Peer Gynt music. [1-138]
[1-139 |] Access [1-140] A shuttle boat serves Gjende all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu and Torfinnsbu. [1-141]
[1-142 |] Facts: [1-143] Gjendebu was formally opened in 1871. [1-144] Owner: DNT OA. [1-145] Managers: Aase and Håkon Dalen. [1-146] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 990 meters above sea level, and has 119 beds, including 34 beds in the self-service annex. [1-147] Tel. : 61 23 89 44. [1-148 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [1-149]
[1-150 |] Sikkilsdalsseter [1-151 |] A Pleasant Place for Horses and People [1-152] The southern wall of Sikkilsdalshomet is steep and windblown, but it towers over valley that is extraordinarily fertile and green. [1-153] In addition to its lushness, the valley has been long known for its plentiful trout and good hunting conditions. [1-154] It was for that reason that it was used for mountain grazing, and eventually also for summertime farming. [1-155] For a long time, Huseby farm in Stange, Hedmark, had a summer farm here, and it must have been a chore to herd animals for days along the country road all the way up to Sikkilsdalen, located at almost 1000 meters above sea level! [1-156] Local annals reveal that in 1803, two farms down at Kvikne, midway between Skåbu and Vinstra, operated mountain farms, so by that time the locals were probably relieved that Hedmark farmers had stopped using «their» valley. [1-157] In 1868, the government began to rent the valley as pastureland for horses, and shortly thereafter, Englishman Charles Bamford bought it for the hunting and fishing rights. [1-158] He had hunted in Jotunheimen for a number of years, in the company, among others, of legendary reindeer hunter Jo Gjende. [1-159] Through Jo Gjende, Bamford came into contact with Syver Sande, a well-known hunter and mountaineer who normally went under the name of Sjur. [1-160] Sjur Sande was persuaded to be Bamford's representative in Sikkilsdalen and to live there year round. [1-161] He moved with his wife and two children from Vågå, and he and his descendants lived in Sikkilsdalen for almost one hundred years. [1-162] Even today, it is the Sande family that operates Sikkilsdalssetra. [1-163] The combination of hunting grounds and pasture for horses did not fare well, however. [1-164] Already in 1874, Bamford sold Sikkilsdalen to a group of Christiania citizens. [1-165] They in turn tried to sell the property to the government, but it wasn't until 1881 that they succeeded. [1-166] The government bought Sikkilsdalen in order to operate a horse-breeding center, and Sjur Sande and his family became part of the agreement, as tenants of Sikkilsdalsseter. [1-167] Grazing conditions for horses are exceptionally good in Sikkilsdalen. [1-168] The soil is fertile; the valley is sheltered and well exposed to the rays of the sun. [1-169] The result is succulent, nutritious grass, and this is why there are still several herds of horses in Sikkilsdalen throughout the summer. [1-170] It is an experience to see them turned loose to graze around the end of June. [1-171] Tourists began very early to appreciate Sikkilsdalen, and already in 1870, the family's one dwelling became insufficient and Sjur built an additional one with a guestroom. [1-172] Since then, progress has continued, tourism became predominant, and the Sande family built the stylish lodge of the present day. [1-173]
[1-174 |] Access [1-175] There is an automobile road to the lodge from Skåbu, and marked hiking trails from Oskampen and Gjendesheim. [1-176]
[1-177 |] Facts: [1-178] Sikkilsdalsseter has hosted tourists since 1868. [1-179] The lodge is located in Nord Fron municipality in Oppland, 1016 meters above sea level, and has 78 beds. [1-180 |] Owner: The Ministry of Agriculture [1-181 |] Manager: Tordis Sande Varpestuen. [1-182 |] Tel. : 61 29 55 14. [1-183 |] Web: www.skabu.com [1-184]
[1-185 |] Besstrond Sæter [1-186 |] Old Mountain Farm in Sjodalen [1-187]
[1-188 |] Access [1-189] Automobile road past the lodge and bus connections. [1-190]
[1-191 |] Facts [1-192] Besstrond Sæter has hosted tourists since 1976. [1-193] Owners: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. [1-194 |] Manager: Turid Berge. [1-195] The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 48 beds. [1-196] Tel. : 61 23 89 23. [1-197]
[1-198 |] Spiterstulen [1-199] The lodge is amply described in pamphlet 4. [1-200]
[1-201 |] Access [1-202] Automobile road to the lodge and bus connections. [1-203] Marked hiking trails to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. [1-204]
[1-205 |] Facts [1-206] Spiterstulen has hosted tourists since the 1830's. [1-207 |] Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim. [1-208 |] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1100 meters above sea level, and has approx. 230 beds. [1-209] Tel. : 61 21 14 80. [1-210 |] Web: www.spiterstulen.no [1-211 |] Juvasshytta [1-212] The lodge is amply described in pamphlet 4. [1-213 |] Access. [1-214] Automobile road to the lodge and bus connections. [1-215] Marked hiking trails to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Røisheim and Elveseter. [1-216]
[1-217 |] Facts [1-218] Juvasshytta has hosted tourists since 1884. [1-219 |] Owner: Ragnhild Vole. [1-220 |] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1840 meters above sea level, and has approx. 85 beds. [1-221 |] Tel.: 61 21 15 50. [1-222 |] Web: http://ditt.net/juvasshytta [1-223]
[1-224 |] Hindsæter fjellstue [1-225 |] Mountain Farm from the 1600's [1-226]
[1-227 |] Access [1-228] Automobile road past the lodge and bus connections. [1-229]
[1-230 |] Facts [1-231] Hindsæter fjellstue has hosted tourists since the 1860's. [1-232 |] Owner: Rolf Strøm. [1-233 |] The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 920 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. [1-234] Tel. : 61 23 89 16. [1-235]
[1-236 |] Maurvangen [1-237] Camping and cabin rentals. [1-238]
[1-239 |] Access [1-240] Automobile past the campgrounds and bus connections. [1-241] Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim and Sikkilsdalsseter. [1-242]
[1-243 |] Facts [1-244] Maurvangen Camping has hosted tourists since 1976. [1-245 |] Owner: Else Reiremo. [1-246 |] The place is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 26 rental cabins. [1-247] Tel. : 61 23 89 22. [1-248]
[1-249 |] Classic Trip Along Gjende [1-250 |] Trip 1a - 2 days - gg [1-251]
[1-252 |] 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim to Memurubu [1-253 |] Have you ever seen Gjendineggen? [1-254] Before 1867, there were not many people who had. [1-255] But then came Henrik Ibsen's masterpiece Peer Gynt, and the Gjende area, with Besseggen, became widely known. [1-256] When DNT laid out its first marked route in the beginning of the 1870's, it went from Bessheim to Memurubu across Veslefjellet and down to Besseggen. [1-257] In our time, about 30 000 people make the trip over Besseggen during a normal summer. [1-258] The trip is considered to be a relatively light one-day outing. [1-259] The ridge itself, which is about 20 meters wide, comprises only a little less than one kilometer of the route. [1-260] It is breezy, but not dangerous. [1-261] Cross-country races have actually been arranged from Memurubu to Gjendeshiem across the ridge as early as the 1960's, but the race was discontinued after a couple of years. [1-262] If you are afraid of heights, it may be wise to make the trip from Memurubu, but it is most spectacular from Gjendesheim or Bessheim. [1-263] I will describe the trip from Gjendesheim, since it is here that most people start out. [1-264] The difference in elevation from the tourist lodge to the top of Veslefjellet is 750 meters, but the path is good and wide, and the ascent is quite even. [1-265] The hillsides around Gjende are very fertile, and there is much to be enjoyed if one is interested in flowers. [1-266] Here, the birch tree line goes above 1200 meters; this is the highest in the country. [1-267] After one kilometer, the route toward Glitterheim bears to the right, but we continue up Veslløyfti and Veslefjellet. [1-268] Over the years, the tracks from tens of thousands of hiker's boots have dug a wide, gray strip across Veslefjellet, but you don't need to go very many meters off the beaten track to discover that there are also plants at 1700 meters elevation. [1-269] It is true, of course, that Alpine Azaleas and Glacier Buttercups are not as profuse here as their relatives farther down the hillside. [1-270] Up at the summit, the marked route from Bessheim meets the one from Gjendesheim. [1-271] The trip from Bessheim takes approx. one hour longer, and it is marked via the mouth of Besvatn Lake. [1-272] A bridge has been placed here. [1-273] The panorama from Veslefjell is breathtaking. [1-274] From here you can see many of Jotunheimen's great peaks and large portions of Valdresflya and Gausdal Vestfjell. [1-275] The view from the top of Besseggen is also overwhelming, with the lakes, blue Bessvatn and green Gjende , deep below. [1-276] When you begin your descent, you should, however, pay attention to where you put your feet down. [1-277] There are a couple of narrow passages that many find a little breezy. [1-278] The difference in elevation down to Bessvatn is almost 400 meters. [1-279] Once down, you hike across a very narrow mountain ridge that divides Bessvatn from the cliffs down toward Gjende. [1-280] If the glacier that once created Bessvatnet had time to gnaw away a little more of the mountain here, there would have been an impressive waterfall down into Gjende. [1-281] Instead, the water now runs eastward. [1-282] From the shores of Bessvatnet, the path goes up again a couple hundred meters in elevation, and then downhill again. [1-283] First past Bjømbøltjørna and then eventually downward toward Memurubu. [1-284] There you may either spend the night, take the boat back to Gjendesheim or on to Gjendebu or you may also hike back to Gjendesheim along the Gjende. [1-285] The trip goes through much lush nature along an old farm road and is surprisingly varied. [1-286]
[1-287 |] 2. Memurubu to Gjendebu [1-288] This trip is also a classic. [1-289] The trip down Bukkelægeret is one of Jotunheimen's steepest marked routes, but it is well secured and not dangerous as long as you are cautious. [1-290] Just after you have started out from Meurubu, the route crosses Muru via a solid bridge. [1-291] The path continues steeply upward toward Sjugurdtind and then a little more gradually up toward Lågtuna. [1-292] Along the way it first passes Sjugurtind Pond and then Grunnevatnet. [1-293] On a warm summer day, you will undoubtedly appreciate this. [1-294] The route continues through high and open ground and offers an excellent view; Surtningssua to the north and the peaks on the southern side of Gjende are especially impressive. [1-295] The trail continues on a couple of kilometers to a large stonepile marking, where the route forks. [1-296] To the right, the route continues west and down into Storådalen, where it joins the route between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. [1-297] This trip from Memurubu to Gjendebu takes approximately 6 hours and may be an alternative for those who find bukkelægeret too steep. [1-298] We continue, however, along the trail to the left and down Bukkelægeret. [1-299] Here it descends in steep loops, and there are cable wires laid out at the most exposed points. [1-300] As for Besseggen, it may be wise to do this trip in the opposite direction if you are bothered by fear of heights. [1-301] The hillside is steep, but it offers an excellent floral environment. [1-302] According to reports, approximately 700 different plant species have been found in this area. [1-303] The entire spectrum is found here, from Glacier buttercups, Spring Pasque and Maiden Saxifrage, to Dog Rose, Bird Cherry and Lily of the Valley. [1-304] Once you are down from Bukkelægeret, the path to Gjendebu is easy and pleasant to hike, along the shoreline of Gjende. [1-305]
[1-306 |] Day Trip from Memurubu [1-307] The trip to Surtningssua is an absolute must if you are spending time at Memurubu. [1-308] Its 2368-meter altitude makes it Norway's seventh highest mountain. [1-309] It was first climbed about 1840 by Johan Sverdrup, who would later be president of parliament. [1-310] Jotunologist Emanuel Mohn, who reached the summit 40 years later, found that the view from the peak is the grandest in all of Jotunheimen. [1-311] Such a classification is dubious, but there is no doubt that the panorama from the top is magnificent. [1-312] There are two marked trails to the top, and you should allow for at least eight hours to go up and down again. [1-313]
[1-314 |] MS Gjende [1-315] Ever since 1906, there have been motorized boat routes on Gjende Lake. [1-316] In our time, the stream of passengers is so great during the most hectic of summer days that it takes two passenger boats to transport everyone traveling between Gjendesheim, Memurubu and Gjendebu. [1-317] Here, the largest of the boats are in service during fine summer days. [1-318] The weather conditions are not always favorable - Gjende is known for being sly, with strong gales and sudden changes in the weather. [1-319]
[1-320 |] Lengths [1-321] Gjendesheim - Memurubu, 6 hrs. [1-322] Bessheim - Memurubu, 7 hrs. [1-323] Memurubu - Gjendesheim (along Gjende), 3 ½ hrs. [1-324] Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Bukkelægeret), 5 hrs. [1-325] Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Storådalen), 6 hrs. [1-326]
[1-327 |] Overnight Accommodations [1-328] Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Maurvangen, Memurubu, Gjendebu. [1-329 |] Public Transportation [1-330] Bus routes to Gjendesheim and Bessheim. [1-331] Shuttle boat service on Gjende Lake. [1-332] It calls at Gjendebu, Memurubu and Gjendesheim. [1-333 |] Day Trips from Gjendesheim [1-334 |] Trip 1b - Ample choices - g - ggg [1-335] There are a number of tempting day outings around Gjendesheim. [1-336] On the northern side of Gjende, both Veslefjellet and Besshø are inviting for those who are looking for vistas and panoramas. [1-337] The trip to Veslefjellet is short and feasible and can be combined with detours around Bessvatn. [1-338] The trip to the summit of Besshø is considerably longer, but not particularly difficult. [1-339] It is most usual to hike up the mountainside from the mouth of Bessvatnet, go across Bukkehø and follow the mountain ridge on the southern side of the glacier to the summit. [1-340] South of Gjende, there are also plenty of choices. [1-341] Neither Høgebrotet nor Tjørnholstind lie farther away from Gjendesheim than that these summits can be reached within one day. [1-342] If you are among those who absolutely have to climb peaks, it may be a good idea to take a trip around Knutshø. [1-343] Ask the people who work in Gjendesheim to take you across Sjoa, and then follow the path west along the shore of Gjende. [1-344] It is unmarked, but the route is easily seen. [1-345] On the little mountain ridge between Upper Leirungen and Gjende, there is a restored stone cabin; the original was built by Englishman Theodore Rathbone in the mid-1800's. [1-346] He was a close friend of the legendary reindeer hunter, Jo Gjende. [1-347] From the cabin, you can either continue along Upper Leirungen or take the trip across the lovely ridge at Knutshø. [1-348] Some maintain that this is the ridge that Peer Gynt and the reindeer buck crossed, and not Besseggen. [1-349] We will leave that discussion alone, and instead contend that Knutshø is also worth a day trip from Gjendesheim; it is a «breezy», but totally safe trip. [1-350] You can hike back to Gjendesheim on the eastern side of Lower Leirungen and Gjendeshø. [1-351] During the last leg approaching the lodge, you will merge with the marked trail from Haugseter (see pamphlet 2). [1-352]
[1-353 |] Fishing [1-354] Fishing is not a bad reason to visit this area, either. [1-355] The row of old fisherman cabins near Gjendesheim are proof that Sjoa and Gjendeoset are particularly good places for trout. [1-356] A similar sign is the presence of the Gjende flies that hover in swarms over the surface of the water during late summer days. [1-357] Before they hatch, the larvae lie on the surface of sunken rocks at the bottom of the river, exposed to feeding fish. [1-358] In Gjende, there are also plenty of gammarids, a little crustacean that is a tasty snack for trout. [1-359] You can buy a fishing license at the tourist lodges. [1-360]
[1-361 |] The Grand Round Trip [1-362 |] Trip 1c - 4-6 days - gg - ggg [1-363 |] 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim to Glitterheim [1-364] There are other trips besides Besseggen that have gained the status of classics in Jotunheimen. [1-365] With Gjendesheim as your starting point, you can also make a week-long round trip that will take you through much of the finest that Jotunheimen has to offer, and that provides many possible side trips, including to the two tallest peaks in the entire country. [1-366] The main route goes via Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu and Memurubu, but there are several possibilities for choosing shorter routes along the way, if you should find that some of the legs I propose are too long. [1-367] The route also has the advantage of allowing you to start or end your trip at any of the lodges, except Glitterheim, and to take public transportation or your car to continue on. [1-368] At any rate, I suggest that you begin at Gjendesheim. [1-369] You will hike the first kilometer up the hillside toward Gjendehalsen together with those who are headed across Besseggen, but at the fork in the trail, you will go to the right. [1-370] The trail is good and wide; there have been many hikers who have walked here before you. [1-371] The first of these, incidentally, may have come very early. [1-372] The natural environment was favorable, at least. [1-373] We know, for example, that the wood line 8000 years ago was considerably higher than today. [1-374] Remains of old pine logs have been found in the swamps as high up as 1200 meters above sea level in this area, and who can know if there weren't hunters roaming around here. [1-375] The path swings in toward blue Bessvatn Lake that arches in toward the foot of Besshø. [1-376] The summit is a good place to hike to if you are staying at Bessheim or Gjendesheim. [1-377] The route toward Glitterheim crosses the river via a bridge at the mouth, and it eventually also merges with the marked route from Bessheim. [1-378] If you walk a little out onto the ledge, you can look down on Bessheim and enjoy a good panorama of Sjodalen. [1-379] The marked route continues evenly out toward Russvatnet. [1-380] This is also a long, narrow lake that stretches in an arch in through the mountains. [1-381] You will have a better overview of the lake, however, when you reach the other side. [1-382] You do this after having crossed the bridge on the outlet at the eastern end. [1-383] From here, there is a cart road along the river and down into Sjodalen. [1-384] The marked route continues along the shore of Russvatnet for a couple of kilometers, before it again runs uphill along Tjørnholåa. [1-385] You will pass a number of brooks on the stretch along the lake, and these might be suitable stopping points if you need a rest. [1-386] Tjørnholåa is crossed by bridge in a canyon. [1-387] The bridge, by the way, is among the more windy ones, but it is safe enough (I helped build it myself!). [1-388] On the other side, the route forks, and both branches lead to Glitterheim, both of basically equal length. [1-389] The route to the right goes through the magical and splendid Tjørnholet. [1-390] This is considered a little more challenging than the other one. [1-391] Here the going is very rocky and not always so easy to find the stone markers, but that is not really relevant, because the route is easily seen. [1-392] At the highest point in the hollow, there is usually snow cover; be careful is it is hard and slippery. [1-393] From the top of the gorge, there is a fine side trip to eastern Hestlægerhø. [1-394] The marked trail continues down into Veodalen and crosses Veo via a solid bridge. [1-395] The other route from the bridge across Tjørnholåa is the one most commonly used. [1-396] It ascends evenly, first west and then north to the gorge between eastern and western Hestlægerhø. [1-397] From there, it continues evenly along Hestbekken until it merges with the route from Tjørnholet via a bridge over Veo. [1-398]
[1-399 |] 2. Glitterheim to Spiterstulen [1-400] There is an automobile road to Glitterheim, but it is closed to normal car traffic from the border to the national park, so here only hikers are allowed. [1-401] This is noticeable by the fireside banter in the lounge during the evenings. [1-402] The subject is usually the following day's trek. [1-403] For many, the subject is Glittertind. [1-404] Norway's next tallest summit is the perfect destination. [1-405] The great thing is that you can combine the trip to Spiterstulen with a trek to the summit. [1-406] If the weather is nice, you should definitely do this. [1-407] In inclement weather, it is better to hike over Skautflya to Spiterstulen (see below). [1-408] The distance of the trip over Glittertind is feasible for people in fairly good shape to complete without exerting themselves too much. [1-409] The course is generally well marked, and it has stone markers all the way to the edge of the glacier. [1-410] The trail first goes up toward Lower Steinbuvatnet and then up the mountain ridge to the edge of the glacier. [1-411] The upper glacier does not have chasms, but it may be slippery, especially during late summer, so it pays to wear crampons. [1-412] One follows the crest of the glacier westward; don't go too near the edge of the high, sheer northern wall. [1-413] As you approach the top, you will encounter an increasingly impressive panorama. [1-414] Earlier, it was possible to find shelter in a cabin at the summit and enjoy the vista. [1-415] The cabin was unfortunately destroyed by snow and wind, so that today only the weather dictates how long you can remain on the summit. [1-416] If the winds are calm and skies are clear, this is a fantastic place to spend a few hours while you try to identify the peaks and glaciers that stretch out on the surrounding horizon. [1-417] If your destination is Spiterstulen, you should not wait too long, however. [1-418] Even though the major portion of the trip is behind you, there is still far to go. [1-419] There is no marked route over the summit itself, so read the map carefully. [1-420] First you cross two lesser peaks, and then you descend evenly to the glacier on the western side. [1-421] The route is marked by stone piles from the southern edge of the snow cover. [1-422] First steeply down to Skautflya, where you cross Steindalselva and Skauta either by stepping from stone to stone, or wading over, depending on the depth of the water. [1-423] The route continues to the fork in the trail for the route across Skautflya and on across Skautkampen and down into Visdalen, and further along the road until you come to Spiterstulen. [1-424] As mentioned, the trip across Skautflya is an alternative to the trek over Glittertind. [1-425] The route first runs across a footbridge across Steinbuelva, and after that towards Skautflya through Vesleglupen. [1-426] Before Skautkampen, this route merges with the one over Glittertind, and they become one the rest of the way. [1-427]
[1-428 |] 3. Spiterstulen to Gjendebu [1-429] The next leg goes all the way to Gjendebu. [1-430] It is a long trek, but it can be split in two by going via Leirvassbu. [1-431] (For details, see pamphlet no. 4 in this series.) [1-432] If you are in reasonably good shape and take your time, it won't be difficult to hike to Gjendebu via Uradalen in a day. [1-433] The first portion of the trip from Spiterstulen runs through the wide and fertile Visdalen valley. [1-434] After hiking one kilometer, you can see the remains of the first Spiterstulen at the foot of Styggehø, on the other side of the river. [1-435] There is a bridge across Hellstuguåa, and after a couple of kilometers, the path divides between the one from Leirvasbu and the one to Gjendebu. [1-436] The latter continues through narrow Uradalen, which is appropriately named. [1-437] Here it is wise to use sturdy footwear and to look where you place your feet. [1-438] Still, you mustn't forget to look up once in a while. [1-439] In the area surrounding the valley, there are 12 impressive peaks towering up to more than 2000 meters in height. [1-440] The largest is Hellstugutind, at 2345 meters. [1-441] The highest point in the valley itself is Urdalsbandet, at 1663 meters, but from this point, the course goes basically downhill. [1-442] A little north of Hellertjørna, you will joint he route from Leirvassbu. [1-443] Semmelåa may be crossed either by wading or stepping from stone to stone. [1-444] At high water levels, it may be difficult to cross; in this case, you will have to go farther up the hillside. [1-445] Soon the trail will pass the splendid Hellerfossen waterfall and eventually also the place where the marked route to Memurubu ascends from Storådalen. [1-446] The final kilometers to Gjendebu go through terrain that becomes increasingly more fertile and green, and especially during the summertime, the flora is resplendent. [1-447]
[1-448 |] 4. Gjendebu to Memurubu [1-449] See description in Trip 1a. [1-450] Here you may also take a boat. [1-451 |] 5. Memurubu to Gjendesheim [1-452] See description in 1a. [1-453] Here you may also take a boat. [1-454 |] Nautgardstind [1-455] If you are in good physical shape and the weather is nice, you can enjoy beautiful Nautgardstinden on your way between Gjendesheim and Glitterheim. [1-456] Begin at the bridge across Tjørnholåa and continue right to the summit. [1-457] Nautgardstind's 2258 meters offer a marvelous view 360 degrees around. [1-458] From the summit you continue along the ridge toward the northeast and out through Nautgardsoksla down to the route to Glitterheim. [1-459]
[1-460 |] Glittertind [1-461] Glittertind's 2465 meters are without a doubt the most important destination from Glitterheim. [1-462] Hunter Jo Gjende believed for a long time that he had been the first man to reach the summit of «Tinden», when in 1842 he had tracked a reindeer buck all the way to the top. [1-463] But history reveals that it was an urbanite who first reached the summit. [1-464] Henrik Wergeland's cousin, land surveyor Harald Nicolai Storm Wergeland, conquered Norway's second tallest peak in the company of Hans Sletten from Lom the year before. [1-465] The term next tallest might be open to debate, however - when the first climbers conquered Glittertind, the crown of snow was considerably higher than in modern times, and it is very possible that the peak at that time was actually taller than Galdhøpiggen, even though Galdhøpiggen in those days also had a glacier crown. [1-466]
[1-467 |] Hellstugubreen [1-468] A good alternative to this trip between Spiterstulen and Gjendebu is to hike along the classic glacier route over Hellstugubreen. [1-469] The trip requires glacier hiking skills; it demands glacier hiking equipment and takes longer than the alternative in the valley. [1-470] From Gjendebu, the route goes up Storådalen to Hellerfossen waterfall, from there up along the eastern side of Semmelåa, inn through Semelholet and up into the hollow between Hinnotefjellet and Søre Hellstugutinden. [1-471] From there, glacier hiking northward over West Memurubre and across Hellstugubreen to Vidalen and Spiterstulen. [1-472]
[1-473 |] Length [1-474] Gjendesheim/Bessheim - Glitterheim, 7 hrs. [1-475] Glitterheim - Spiterstulen, 5 or 7 hrs. [1-476] Spiterstulen - Gjendebu, 8 hrs. [1-477 |] Gjendebu - Memurubu, 5 or 6 hrs., see p. 19 [1-478 |] Memurubu - Gjendesheim, 3 ½ hrs. or 6 hrs., see p. 19 [1-479]
[1-480 |] Overnight Accommodations [1-481] Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu, Memurubu. [1-482]
[1-483 |] Public Transportation [1-484] Bus routes to Gjendesheim, Bessheim and Spiterstulen. [1-485] Shuttle boat route on Gjende Lake. [1-486] It calls at Gjendebu, Memurubu and Gjendesheim. [1-487]
[1-488 |] The Minor Round-trip [1-489 |] Trip 1d - 2-3 days- gg [1-490]
[1-491] A popular round trip in the Jotunheimen mountains is the one that goes from Gjendesheim or Bessheim via Glitterheim and back via Memurubu. [1-492] Like the Grand Round Trip, this one can be done in either direction, and there are several alternative routes along the way. [1-493]
[1-494 |] 1. Bessheim/Gjendesheim to Glitterheim [1-495] See description, Trip 1c. [1-496]
[1-497 |] 2. Glitterheim to Memurubu [1-498] The first portion of the trip goes along the route to Gjendesheim through the gorge between eastern and western Hestlægerhø. [1-499] Further down to the junction for the route to Gjendesheim and down to Russvatnet. [1-500] There is a bridge across Blåtjørnåa.