[2-1 |] Eidsbugarden [2-2 |] In the spirit of Vinje [2-3] More than anyone else, it is poet Aasmund Olavsson Vinje whose name is most associated with Eidsbugarden, located on the western shore of Jotunheimen's largest lake, Bygdin. [2-4] The name Jotunheimen has been attributed to him, and his poetry has been significantly responsible for the growth of interest in the Norwegian mountains toward the end of the 1880's. [2-5] From 1863 until he died, Vinje and his friends were usually in the mountains several weeks each summer, among other places at the western end of Bygdin. [2-6] During the summer of 1868, Vinje and three of his comrades dubbed his little cabin with the elegant name Eidsbugarden. [2-7] Vinje, often penniless, had problems financing his portion of the building and had to borrow from Consul Thomas Heftye, DNT's founder. [2-8] After Vinje died, Heftye came in as co-owner, and eventually he bought out the other partners. [2-9] Enterprising Heftye hired the renowned mountain guide Ole Røisheim from Bøverdalen as resident tenant and eventually as manager of the tourist lodge. [2-10] The latter expanded and operated Eidsbugarden, first for Heftye - and later for his son - in an exemplary manner all the way until 1906, at which time he was 79 years old! [2-11] In 1905, a motorized shuttle boat route over Bygin was established, and the year after, Kristoffer Kvame, a reindeer owner and mountain man from Valdres, and the wealthy Oslo citizen Einar Andersen, bought Eidsbugarden. [2-12] Kvame became the sole owner in 1909, and during his time Eidsbugarden developed dramatically. [2-13] Already in 1909, on the occasion of a visit by Norway's new royal family, the large red residence of Eidsbugarden was described as «by far the most comfortable hotel in Jotunheimen». [2-14] The buildings were further expanded in the early 1920's and then later at several intervals. [2-15] The Kvame family operated the hotel all the way until 1974, when it was sold to Eidsbugarden Tourist Center. [2-16] For long periods of time in both the 1980's and 90's, it was not possible to keep the hotel open, but now the hotel so rich in tradition is once again in operation. [2-17]
[2-18 |] Access [2-19 |] There is an automobile road to the hotel and a shuttle boat route over Bygdin. [2-20 |] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. [2-21]
[2-22 |] Facts [2-23] Vinjestova, the forerunner of Eisbugarden hotel, was opened in 1868. [2-24] Owner: Hans Martin Skagen. [2-25] Manager: Leif Skagen. [2-26 |] The hotel is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. [2-27 |] Tel.: 61 36 77 14. [2-28 |] E-mail: ocdahl@online.no [2-29 |] Fondsbu [2-30 |] New lodge at the old gateway [2-31]
[2-32] In 1992, Fondfinans AS bought the annex at Eidsbugarden, «The Happy Wanderer», and leased it to DNT OA. [2-33] The year after, when DNT celebrated its 125th anniversary, the tourist lodge of Fondsbu was opened. [2-34] For DNT, this has almost been like returning to where foot tourism began. [2-35] The 26 beds that were in the tourist lodge soon proved insufficient, and it became necessary to build an annex. [2-36] The fact that there are an ever increasing number of guests is due in no small degree to the new hosts, who have made every effort to make the lodge well-known. [2-37] They have succeeded in distinguishing Fondsbu as one of the best places to eat in all of Jotunheimen. [2-38] Organized day outings with guides to selected destinations are also an initiative that causes many guests to choose to stay over a few extra days at Fondsbu. [2-39] If one enjoys wild and varied natural surroundings, it is not even necessary to use fine cuisine or mountain guides as a justification for staying over at Fondsbu. [2-40] Nor does one have to be as sensitive a soul as Vinje to feel the attraction of the peaks when gazing at Falketind's impressive facade toward Koldedalen. [2-41] Each year, there are many who make the trip made by Keilhau, Boeck and Urden, who were the first to reach the top in 1820. [2-42] The most common route goes from Andrevatnet in Morka, Koldedalen and across the glacier to the summit. [2-43] If you master glacier hiking, the trip is quite easy, and most people combine the visit to Falketind with a trip up to neighboring Stølsnostind. [2-44] If the view from Falketind is impressive toward the east, the one from Stølsnostind is at least as breathtaking toward the west, among other things toward the craggy Hurrungane on the other side of Utladalen. [2-45] Since you are in the area, Uranostind is also an excellent hiking destination. [2-46] This peak also requires glacier hiking. [2-47] But you will not have to go far to enjoy the view. [2-48] Skinnegga, at 1518 meters, is just a few short kilometers south of Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden and can easily be reached during an afternoon outing, and the view is breathtaking! [2-49]
[2-50 |] Access [2-51] There is an automobile road to Fonsbu and a shuttle boat over Bygdin. [2-52] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. [2-53]
[2-54 |] Facts [2-55] Fondsbu turisthytte was opened in 1993. [2-56] Owner: Fondsfinans AS. [2-57] DNT OA rents the lodge. [2-58] Managers: Nina Schreiber and Helge Lindstad. [2-59 |] The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1065 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. [2-60 |] Tel. : 970 74 218. [2-61 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [2-62]
[2-63 |] Olavsbu [2-64 |] Self-service idyll [2-65] Already long before the war, DNT wanted to build a lodge in Raudalen in order to disperse traffic in Jotunheimen. [2-66] The routes between Gjendebu and Skogadalsbøen, and Leirvassbu and Eidsbugarden, were so lengthy that many were reluctant to hike in this area. [2-67] A lodge at the intersection between these two routes uppermost in Raudalen would therefore serve to divide up the daily hiking legs and to create more opportunities for tourists going from lodge to lodge. [2-68] When DNT received a large endowment from ship owner Olav Ringdal and his wife to build a lodge in memory of their son Olav, who had fallen during World War II, there was therefore little doubt as to where such a lodge should be placed and where it would be the most beneficial. [2-69] And what an exquisite location - not only does the lodge have the crossing of two important hiking routes practically on its doorstep, Olavsbu itself is located at the base of some of the finest peaks Jotunheimen has to offer. [2-70] Right in front of it towers the gracious Mjølkedalstinden, all of 2137 meters (trip description, see pamphlet 3). [2-71] To its rear, Olavsbu has lofty Raudalseggi, at 2168 meters. [2-72] It was first climbed in 1906 by Ferdinand Schelderup and Agnes Jakhelln. [2-73] The ascent directly to the top behind the lodge requires climbing skills and safety equipment, but it is possible to reach the summit without climbing by starting from Storådalen. [2-74] No the less grand are Sjogholstind, Skardalstind and Raudalstindan, all of which lie inside a feasible day trip from Olavsbu. [2-75] Olavsbu was completed in 1952 and rapidly become so popular that the lodge had to be expanded already by 1960. [2-76] Later, it was expanded even more at several intervals, so that it is today among DNT's largest self-service lodges, boasting more than 40 beds. [2-77] The capacity is necessary when we know that the record for overnight stays is more than 3000 persons per year. [2-78]
[2-79 |] Access [2-80 |] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Skogadalsbøen, Eidsbugarden and Fondsbu. [2-81]
[2-82 |] Facts [2-83] Olavsbu self-service lodge was formally opened in 1952. [2-84 |] Owner: DNT OA. [2-85] The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1440 meters above sea level, and has 40 beds. [2-86 |] Tel. : None. [2-87 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [2-88]
[2-89 |] Haugseter fjellstue [2-90 |] Old Traditions at Vinstri [2-91]
[2-92] At Mørstadstølen, almost at the east end of the great lake, Vinstri, archeologists have found the remains of a Stone Age settlement. [2-93] The arrowheads that were found nearby bear witness to the activities of our fur-clad forefathers in the high mountains. [2-94] It is probable that humans have made use of this area more or less continuously ever since that time, for both hunting and fishing. [2-95] It also became popular to have summer farms at Vinstri. [2-96] Before the war, there were at least fifty summer dairy farms operating along the shores, and still today several of them are in operation. [2-97] Nearby Mørstadstølen is Haugseter. [2-98] Already in the 1860's, it had gained the reputation among hiking tourists of being a good place to spend the night. [2-99] When increasingly more hikers began choosing the route toward Jotunheimen through the lower portions of Gausdal Vestfjell, this was the natural place to find accommodations. [2-100] In the beginning, the tourists had to share quarters with the farm people, but in 1876, Øystein Rudi and his wife Ingrid built a separate tourist lodge near the farmstead. [2-101] They ran it up until 1910, when their daughter Marit and her husband, Tollef Haavi, took over. [2-102] In 1919, the facilities were renovated again, so much so this time that for a few years the place bore the elegant name of Haugseter Hotel. [2-103] Many tourists were also brought here by rowboat. [2-104] Those arriving at the shoreline across from Haugseter would raise a white flag signaling that they needed transportation. [2-105] In 1911, a motorized shuttle boat was put in service at Vinstri, just as on the other large lakes in Jotunheimen. [2-106] The boat served the lake until 1954, when the Jotunheim road between Bygdin and Skåbu was completed, but the lake was not only important for boat traffic - the excellent fishing here attracted many people, both locals and tourists. [2-107] In 1989, regrettably, Haugseter Mountain Lodge burned to the ground. [2-108] Fortunately it has been rebuilt in the same pleasant, old style. [2-109] It is there for the enjoyment of both hiking tourists and travelers along the Jotunheimen road. [2-110]
[2-111 |] Access [2-112] The Jotunheimen road between Bygdin and Skåbu passes the lodge. [2-113] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Oskampen and Storeskag. [2-114]
[2-115 |] Facts [2-116] Haugseter fjellstue has hosted tourists since the 1860's. [2-117] Owners: Rønjus Nordtorp and Kari Hauge. [2-118] The lodge is located in Øystre Slidre municipality in Oppland, 1040 meters above sea level, and has a total of 64 beds. [2-119] Tel.: 61 34 15 10. [2-120]
[2-121 |] Torfinnsbu [2-122 |] The Lodge that Moved Away [2-123]
[2-124] In 1867, a cabin was built beside one of the old stone sheds at Nybua, about midway on the northern shore of 28-kilometer long Bygdin, Jotunheimen's largest lake. [2-125] The cabin was meant to be quarters for the cattle herders who brought livestock to this area for longer periods during the summertime, but already in 1870, hiking tourists began to spend the night here. [2-126] In 1876, William C. Slingsby, Amanuel Mohn and Knut Lykken came to visit; they were on their way west to climb the great Skagastølstind. [2-127] DNT was given the option to buy the cabin in 1888, but didn't do so until 1901. [2-128] The association then closed its lodge, Tvindehaugen, on Bygdin Lake, dismantled the building and transported the lumber east. [2-129] About one kilometer east of Nybua, where Torfinnsdøla meets Bygdin, DNT found a lovely spot, and in 1905, the lodge was completely rebuilt. [2-130] After a few years, however, it proved to be too small, so that in 1909, it was expanded and renamed with the somewhat more elegant Torfinnsbu, after the river and the magnificent mountains beneath which the lodge is located. [2-131] In 1913, the lodge was taken over by the landowners, who had right of purchase after ten years. [2-132] The various managers of Torfinnsbu, through their efforts over the years, have created a place that mountain tourists have come to appreciate, and that is counts above all. [2-133] In recent years, Torfinnsbu has undergone a comprehensive modernization, and as a result is well-suited to host more tourists. [2-134] Mountain climbers showed early interest in Torfinnsbu, and do so still today. [2-135] Torfinnstindane, especially, makes a striking impression seen from Bygdin below. [2-136] During Slingsby's visit, he and his companions were able to add Østre Torfinnstind, at 2119 meters, to their long list of first ascents. [2-137] The trip down from Torfinnsbu and up to the highest of the three Torfinnstindane is breezy in places, but not particularly difficult, and does not require climbing experience. [2-138] The same can be said of most of the two-thousand-meter peaks around Torfinnsbu. [2-139] Exceptions are the middle peak of the Torfinnstindane, and Søre nål at Knutsegg on the other side of Svartdalen. [2-140] A good trip guide has been published for this area, in the event further information is needed. [2-141] During the summertime, it is also a good idea to combine the day trip from Torfinnsbu with a boat outing on Bygdin. [2-142] This opens for even more exciting trips off the shores of Jotunheimen's largest lake. [2-143 |] Access [2-144] There is a shuttle boat at Bygdin all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Gjendebu, Valdresflya hostel and Bygdin høyfjellshotell. [2-145]
[2-146 |] Facts [2-147] Torfinnsbu has hosted tourists since 1905; its forerunner, Nybod, since 1870. [2-148 |] Owner: Arvid Skredbergene. [2-149] The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds. [2-150 |] Tel. : 958 83 398. [2-151]
[2-152 |] Yksendalsbu [2-153 |] New lodge, But Old Route [2-154]
[2-155] Yksendalen is green and beautiful, stretching from Olefjorden south of Bygdin and ten kilometers west toward Steinbusjøen. [2-156] It is no wonder that the valley was used as a gateway to Jotunheimen already in hiking tourism's infancy. [2-157] Most visitors to the lushness of Yksendalen, however, were not two-legged, but rather four-legged. [2-158] As the name suggests, this was pastureland for cattle. [2-159] It is probable that the valley was used for grazing already at the turn of the previous century. [2-160] Several herds grazed in the valley, and at most, there may have been as many as 100 full-grown bulls here. [2-161] Yksendalsbua provided shelter for the herders of Oppland Agricultural Coop who tended the breeding bulls from Valdres and Vestoppland. [2-162] They were sent to pasture for fattening and to prepare for new tasks that lay ahead during the fall and winter. [2-163] But modern times brought new needs. [2-164] Veterinaries, test tubes and artificial insemination gradually superseded lusty bulls, and the need for mountain pasture wilted away. [2-165] Sometime after the war, grazing in Yksendalen was a thing of the past. [2-166] The needs of two-legged wanderers also changed as communications developed. [2-167] The mountain farm quarters were abandoned and the trails became overgrown. [2-168] During the 1980's, proposals were made to reopen this excellent gateway to Jotunheimen, but to accomplish this, new overnight accommodations would be needed. [2-169] It wasn't until real estate magnate Olav Thon made a generous donation to DNT that things got started. [2-170] DNT was lucky enough to be able to lease the old cattle herders quarters in Yksendalen. [2-171] It was an ideal place for a tourist lodge, because it was located about midway between Beitostølen and Fondsbu. [2-172] It was thoroughly renovated, and a convenient annex was built nearby. [2-173] In February 1994, the lodge was ready to begin hosting its first guests. [2-174] Already the first winter, there were well over a hundred persons who found their way to Yksendalen. [2-175] During recent years, even more have become aware of the route to Fondsbu via this approach. [2-176] Parts of the route are pure paradise, especially from Yksendalsbua and across to Vennistøldalen. [2-177] It is also beautiful along the newly marked route to Bygdin Mountain Hotel on the ridge between Olefjorden and Bygdin. [2-178]
[2-179 |] Beitostølen [2-180] Beitostølen as a tourist site is a relatively recent development. [2-181] For many years this was a regular mountain farm settlement, active during the summer and quiet during the winter. [2-182] Only occasionally the silence was broken by a lonesome grouse hunter or a farmer who needed to come to the summer farm to get a load of hay. [2-183] The road from the valley up to Beitostølen was snow plowed for the first time in 1934, and it would be another 30 years before the first ski lift would be built. [2-184] Today there is teeming activity at Beitostølen almost year round. [2-185] There are countless private cabins here, and in the area one finds high mountain hotels, mountain lodges and rental cabins with a total of more than 2000 beds. [2-186] There are six ski lifts and more than 100 kilometers of marked skiing trails. [2-187] During the summer, Beitostølen is also a good starting point for trips in through Jotunheimen. [2-188] None of the marked trails has been completed all the way to the destination, but you don't need to go any farther than to Bygdin or Gjende to be able to hike along T-marked trails. [2-189]
[2-190 |] Facts [2-191] Beitostølen Tourist Office can provide further information. [2-192 |] Tel.: 61 34 10 06. [2-193 |] E-mail: turistko@online.no [2-194] The following places offer overnight accommodations at Beitostølen and environs. [2-195]
[2-196 |] Beitostølen Høyfjellshotell, approx. 200 beds, 9 rental cabins, Tel. 61 34 13 00, E-mail: booking@beito.no [2-197 |] Beitostølen Camping, rental cabins, Tel.: 61 34 11 00, E-mail: info@beitocamp.no [2-198 |] Bergo Hotell, 66 beds, 12 rental cabins and 35 apartments, Tel. : 61 34 10 45, E-mail: booking@bergo.no [2-199 |] Bitigrenda hytter, 15 cabins and 4 apartments, Tel. : 61 34 14 40, E-mail: bitihyt@online.no [2-200 |] Gjeste gården resort, 30 apartments, Tel. : 61 34 12 72, E-mail: konferansehuset@ol.telia.no [2-201] Kveto fjellgard, 4 cabins, Tel. : 61 34 15 52/905 46 826. [2-202] Liahaugen cabins, Tel. : 61 34 12 69. [2-203 |] Norlandia Bitihorn hotell, approx. 100 beds, Tel. : 61 34 10 43 service@bitihorn.norlandia.no [2-204] Feriehyttene, 19 cabins, Tel. : 61 34 10 44. [2-205 |] Fjellvang hyttegrend, Beito, 4 cabins, Tel. : 61 34 10 14, E-mail: kolykken@online.no [2-206 |] Grønolen fjellgård, Beito, 50 beds, 8 apartments, Tel. : 61 35 29 90, E-mail: gronolen@gronolen.no [2-207 |] Hegge leiligheter, 32 apartments, 16 cabins, Tel. : 61 35 21 00, E-mail: marogne@online.no [2-208 |] Knuts hyttegrend, 22 cabins and apartments, Tel. : 61 34 10 09, E-mail: knutshyt@online.no [2-209 |] Radisson SAS Resort, approx. 300 beds, 6 rental cabins, Tel. : 6135 20 00, E-mail: info@resort-beito.com [2-210 |] Øyang turisthotell, Beito, ca 120 beds, Tel. : 61 34 11 21, E-mail: beito@online.no [2-211]
[2-212 |] Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer [2-213]
[2-214 |] Access [2-215] Automobile road past the lodge. [2-216] Marked hiking trails to Skogadalsbøen, Vettismorki and Slettningsbu. [2-217]
[2-218 |] Facts [2-219] Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer has hosted tourists since 1893. [2-220] Owners: Inger Sagstuen and Erling Olsen. [2-221 |] The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1080 meters above sea level, and has 65 beds in rental cabins. [2-222] Tel. : 61 36 78 88. [2-223]
[2-224 |] Bygdin Fjellhotell [2-225 |] Access [2-226] State Highway 55 over Valdresflya passes the hotel. [2-227] There is a shuttle boat route at Bygdin and there are marked hiking trails to Torfinnsbu and Yksendalsbu. [2-228] The one to Yksendalsbu starts from the road a couple kilometers south of the hotel. [2-229]
[2-230 |] Facts [2-231] Bygdin Fjellhotell was formally opened approx. 1900. [2-232] Owner and manager: Per Otterness. [2-233 |] The hotel is located in Vang municipality, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. [2-234] Tel. : 61 34 14 00. [2-235 |] Maurvangen Camping [2-236 |] Access [2-237] Automobile road past the campgrounds and bus connections. [2-238] Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim and Sikkilsdalsseter. [2-239]
[2-240 |] Facts [2-241] Maurvangen Camping has hosted guests since 1976. [2-242 |] Owner: Else Reiremo. [2-243 |] The camping grounds are located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 26 rental cabins. [2-244] Tel. : 61 23 89 22. [2-245 |] Valdresflya vandrerhjem [2-246 |] Access [2-247] State Highway 51 over Valdresflya passes the hostel. [2-248] There are marked hiking trails to Torfinnsbu and partially marked to Gjendesheim. [2-249]
[2-250 |] Facts [2-251] Valdresflya hostel was formally opened in 1952. [2-252 |] Owner: Norwegian Family and Youth Hostels, eastern region [2-253] The hostel is located in Øystre Slidre municipality Oppland, 1390 meters above sea level, and has 46 beds. [2-254 |] Tel.: Norwegian Family and Youth Hostels, eastern region: 22 15 21 85, E-mail: vhregost@os.enitel.no [2-255] Tel. hostel, in season: 941 07 021. [2-256]
[2-257 |] Varied Trip South of Bygdin [2-258 |] Trip 2a - 2 days - gg [2-259] In hiking tourism's infancy, many made the trip into Jotunheimen from Beitostølen, through the lovely natural surroundings of Yksendalen and past Skinneggin to Eidsbugarden. [2-260] Taking this route in the opposite direction is just as breathtaking, however. [2-261] In many places, there is a fantastic view toward the mountains of Jotunheimen. [2-262] The route is newly marked and goes to Bygdin Hotel. [2-263] With the road to Eidsbugarden and the shuttle boat on Bygdin Lake, this can be an excellent little round trip. [2-264] If you have several days, it may be a good idea to continue around Bygdin via Torfinnsbu. [2-265] See Trip 2c. [2-266 |] 1. Fondsbu to Yksendalsbu [2-267] The trip starts with an even and pleasant uphill climb along a wide, good path up toward Vennestølsdalen. [2-268] After a little more than a kilometer, the trail forks, and the widest path continues toward Utsikten at Skinnegga (see box). [2-269] It is obvious that the trip up here is popular, and the side trip is short enough that you can take it, as well. [2-270] The trip through Vennistølsdalen begins over some nice grassy slopes and eventually through some hilly terrain and some boulders and rocky scree. [2-271] Fortunately, there are good rock pile markers along the way. [2-272] The course continues along the south side of Dryllin and steeply down into Vølodalen. [2-273] You will have to cross some willow thickets on the valley floor, and the path may be a little difficult to find, so follow the markings carefully. [2-274] River Vøloa can normally be crossed by stepping from stone to stone. [2-275] The route continues along the shoreline of the lake south of Vølohornet, and here there is also some rocky scree. [2-276] After that, you will have to go uphill again over Vareggene, but then the route goes steeply downhill into the green Yksendalen valley. [2-277] When one sees the lushness this valley has to offer, it is easy to see why this was a former paradise for grazing bulls. [2-278] It has been a long time, however, since tourists were frightened by such beasts, and today the old cattle herders' quarters have been taken over by DNT as lodging for hikers. [2-279] The trail markings for the last segment up to the lodge are a little peculiar. [2-280] There is little stone in the area, but lots of underbrush, so the path is marked with stakes marked with red. [2-281 |] 2. Yksendalsbu to Bygdin [2-282] In contrast to the old days, tourist hikers no longer need to fear the bulls of Yksendalen, so on your next day, you will be able to concentrate on the view and on keeping on course. [2-283] Since the trail is relatively new in many places, the pathway is not as clearly worn all the way, and it pays to carefully follow the map and the trail markers. [2-284] The route goes first west and toward Skamdalen, where there is a fork in the trail. [2-285] The path to the right is the old one that is no longer used after Olefjorden was dammed up. [2-286] You must continue northeast toward Systerbottjernet and then, a little south of this, toward the east to Skjeldrehornet, across Oleberga and north around Bergaåntjern to Marabotthornet. [2-287] Along the way, you will pass a nice little ridge with a good view to both the south and north; it is an excellent spot to stop for a rest. [2-288] From the top of Marabotthornet, the course runs evenly downward toward Seksin, and then along the southern side of this and east along the mountain side, with a good view of Raudfjorden. [2-289] Bitihorn, 1607 meters above sea level (you really must visit this peak once!), is passed on the northern side, and soon you are down on the state highway, which you follow a little over a kilometer north to Bygdin Mountain Hotel. [2-290]
[2-291 |] Skinnegga [2-292] - Can you recall the View from Skineggen that morning? [2-293] When the white Mist drifted away between Skagastøstindane, and the Kaldedal glaciers glittered like Gold in the radiance of the sun! [2-294] Woe is me in the thought that I will not go there in the summertime!, sighed Aasmund Olavsson Vinje to his friend Sars as he lay deathly ill at the National Hospital in 1870, and he added: [2-295] But when I am laid in the Coffin, my Soul will revisit its Home up yonder between the Mountains, and I will sit atop Falketind and gaze out over Norway, and the range of Mountains will emerge into view. [2-296] Skinnegga is a good example of the fact that height is not always what counts in Jotunheimen. [2-297] Utsikten, below the peak, is only 1518 meters in altitude and is located only a few kilometers south of Fondsbu. [2-298] It is easily reached on an afternoon outing or side trip from the route over to Yksendalsbu. [2-299 |] Length [2-300] Fondsbu - Yksendalsbu, 6 hrs. [2-301] Yksendalsbu - Bygdin, 7 hrs. [2-302]
[2-303 |] Overnight Accommodations [2-304] Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Bygdin Fjellhotell, several other places at Beitostølen. [2-305]
[2-306 |] Communications [2-307] Automobile route and bus route to Fondsbu; likewise past Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-308] Shuttle boat route at Bygdin. [2-309]
[2-310 |] Popular round trip between great mountain peaks [2-311 |] Trip 2b - 3 days - gg [2-312] Fondsbu is DNT's most recent staffed lodge in Jotunheimen, Gjendebu the oldest self-service lodge. [2-313] A round trip to these through relatively easy terrain with a number of opportunities for side trips to the great peaks, is popular. [2-314 |] 1. Fondsbu to Olavsbu [2-315] The first half kilometer goes along a gravel road. [2-316] It passes the restored Vinjebua and crosses Mjølkedøla bridge before the path bears upward along the river. [2-317] As you follow it, you will soon discover how Mjølkedøla got its name. [2-318] If not completely white, it is practically grayish white during periods when the melting ice from the glacier is most profuse. [2-319] Up on the crest of the hill before the large Mjølkedal Lake, you will enter Jotunheimen National Park and experience a breathtaking panorama. [2-320] The route continues on the eastern side of the lake, into a small valley and up into the gorge between Høgbrothøgda and Mjølkedalstind. [2-321] Before the gorge, you will pass two intersections to the trail: first is the route to Skogadalsbøen bearing off to the left, and after a few hundred meters, the route from Gjendebu merges in from the right and continues down the mountainside, where it joins the trail toward Skogadalsbøen. [2-322] You, however, will continue over the gorge, down toward upper Sjogholsvatnet, and go through some rocky scree between Mjølkedalstind and Sjogholstind. [2-323] From there, there is still more scree all the way to Olavsbu, but the view is wonderful, and the lodge is situated in an extraordinarily splendid location. [2-324 |] 2. Olavsbu to Gjendebu [2-325] The route to Gjendebu is very easy and pleasant. [2-326] Except for some rocky portions and old snow that often lingers over the summer at this mountain altitude, it is a good path that is well marked throughout all of Raudalen to Grisletjørnene. [2-327] The route goes around the southern pond and meets the first route from Skogadalsbøen, and after a little more than a kilometer, the second route from Fondsbu, as well. [2-328] Up in Raudalen, vegetation is rather sparse, but as you come down into Vesleådalen, nature makes up for this abundantly. [2-329] The birch woods are dense along the path, and people interested in botany will even find thermophilic plants in this area, even though the altitude is well over 100 meters above sea level. [2-330] This says a lot about the growing conditions around Gjende. [2-331] Especially during the pre-summer season. [2-332] At this time of year, bird life is at its most intense period; a number of species nest in this area. [2-333] The last kilometer as far as the lodge goes over a flat delta that has been built up with deposits from the Storåa and Vesleåa rivers. [2-334] The delta's front expands forward year by year, and it won't be many years before it will no longer be possible to tie up row boats at Gjendebu. [2-335] The pier for the shuttle boat at Gjende was long ago moved further out. [2-336] Just before the lodge, Storåa river is crossed via a solid bridge. [2-337] Take a look at the rapids, and you will understand why the river has the power to carry with it so much silt and loose stone from the mountains above. [2-338]
[2-339 |] 3. Gjendebu to Fondsbu [2-340] If you want to complete a round trip returning to Fondsbu, there are several alternatives from which to choose. [2-341] There are marked trails to Torfinnsbu and on to Fondsbu, and it is possible to take the boat on Bygdin Lake. [2-342] The shortest route, however, runs back the way you came, i.e. up Veslådalen. [2-343] Uppermost in the valley, north of the hillcrest that bears the appropriate name Rundtom, the path divides. [2-344] The routes toward Olavsbu and Skogadalsbøen bear to the right; the one to Fondsbu continues straight ahead. [2-345] If you want to follow an alternative route to Fondsbu, one that is even shorter, you have to go to the right. [2-346] The old postal route over to Fondsbu passes Geithø on the northern side and heads directly toward Fondsbu. [2-347] The postal road is marked on the map, but no longer in the terrain itself, so you will need to be able read a map in order to follow this route. [2-348] It is quite steep toward the end, down toward Fondsbu. [2-349] The T-marked route continues along the southern side of Geithø toward Høystakktjernet. [2-350] The stream from the pond is crossed via a bridge below the outlet; from there the trail descends steeply down to Bygdin. [2-351] For the last kilometers to Fondsbu, the route runs along the shoreline of Bygdin Lake. [2-352]
[2-353 |] Trips to the Summits Around Olavsbu [2-354] Stop over a day or three at Olavsby. [2-355] If you plan to go to Mjølkedalstind, Sjogholstind, Skardalstind or Raudalstindane, you can hardly find a better starting point. [2-356] Even at a self-service lodge, it is possible to stay several days, providing you show common courtesy to other guests. [2-357] At Olavsbu, by the way, there is a host most of the summer who can provide you with practical information. [2-358] The trip to Mjølkedalstind is described in pamphlet 3, and Raudalsegga is presented in the description of the Olavsbu Lodge on page 9. [2-359] Reaching the top of Sjogholstind is also possible for all who are normally accustomed to mountain hiking. [2-360] It starts from the foot trail through the gorge on the northwestern side and follows the ridge to the summit. [2-361] Skardalstind is also a nice mountaintop. [2-362] The starting point for ascending it is Raudalsbandet on the route over toward Leirvassbu. [2-363] From there, you simply set your sights on reaching the top and scale up the mountainside. [2-364] If you want to go to eastern Raudalstind, it is smart to begin from Raudalsbandet, but to complete the trip, you will need the map in pamphlet 3. [2-365]
[2-366 |] Trips Around Fondsbu [2-367] Besides Skinnegga (see Trip 2a), Galdeberget on the other side of Bygdin Lake, is the most usual destination for people who stay at Fondsbu or Eidsbugarden. [2-368] The trip starts along the lake and DNT's rock pile markers over toward Gjendebu. [2-369] After crossing the bridge at Høystakktjernet, you simply keep your course right up to the top at 2075 meters. [2-370] Most people, however, prefer first to go up to the underlying ridge at 1950 meters. [2-371] It towers steeply over Bygdin and provides a view at least as wonderful as from the summit itself. [2-372] The return trip from Galdeberget can be done along the stone marked route through Oksedalen. [2-373] But rather than follow the Gjendeby trail back, a nice trip is to go around Grønebergtjernet and follow the old postal route over Gravafjellet and down to the lodge. [2-374] The postal route, by the way, is also good to follow if you want to visit the 1630-meter tall Høgebrotet. [2-375] As far as I know, this peak is the only place in Jotunheimen that has a panorama of Bygdin, Tyin and Gjende at the same time, in clear weather conditions. [2-376] The area around Fondsbu of course contains much more than these few suggestions. [2-377] In pamphlet 3, you will find more suggestions: otherwise, it's merely a question of using your map and imagination, and of not overestimating your abilities. [2-378]
[2-379 |] Day Trips from Gjendebu [2-380] A nature enthusiast will love all of the fantastic opportunities for trips that are available around Gjendebu. [2-381] A favorite of many is the trip up Gjendestunga. [2-382] The summit is located between Vesleådalen and Storådalen and is just 1516 meters high, but with quite a view - one sees peaks and glaciers in the entire southern portion of Jotunheimen. [2-383] The view from Svardalspiggen's 2137-meter summit is even better, if that is possible, but then the trip up is at least twice as long as the one up Gjendestunga. [2-384] The trip is not especially difficult, however. [2-385] Follow the route toward Torfinnsbu up in Svartdalen. [2-386] Where the valley begins to flatten out, one goes diagonally up to the right and up onto the ridge. [2-387] There is some loose scree and it is somewhat slippery, but otherwise all right. [2-388] Follow the ridge up, across a snowdrift, and farther on to the stone pile marker at the top. [2-389] «Jotunologist» Emanuel Mohn thought that the view from Svartdalspiggen was the most beautiful he had seen in Jotunheimen. [2-390] «There is surely no other lookout point from which one can view over such a short stretch a comparable teeming throng of sharp needle points?» [2-391] On the other side of the valley lies Store Knutsholstind at 2343 meters. [2-392] Before it was conquered for the first time by Johannes Th. Heftye in 1875, the peak was considered to be insurmountable, but today it is considered a hiking trip, although steep and breezy. [2-393] Try it yourself, but be careful. [2-394] If you would rather take a closer look at Jo Gjende's old lodging on the other side of Gjende, or to study plant life around Gjendebu, instead of the high mountains, then neither of these would be a bad alternative. [2-395]
[2-396 |] Length [2-397] Fondsbu - Olavsbu, 5 hrs. [2-398] Gjendebu - Olavsbu, 5 hrs. [2-399] Gjendebu - Fondsbu, 5 hrs. [2-400]
[2-401 |] Overnight Accommodations [2-402] Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Olavsbu and Gjendebu. [2-403]
[2-404 |] Communications [2-405] To Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden, there is an automobile road and a bus route, as well as a shuttle boa ton Bygdin Lake. [2-406] To Gjendebu, there is a shuttle boat on Gjende. [2-407]
[2-408 |] Bygdin Lengthwise [2-409 |] Trip 2c - 3 days - g-gg [2-410]
[2-411] This is a varied and pleasant trip that runs both along the shoreline of Bygdin and up to 1700 meters between the great peaks north of the lake. [2-412] The trip may be combined with Trip 2a as an excursion around all of Bygdin. [2-413] A good alternative is also to continue along the partially marked route from Valdresflya VH to Gjendesheim, or also to take the bus across Valdresflya. [2-414] From Gjendesheim, you can hike back to Fondsbu along Gjende, and thereby be able to see both of these beautiful mountain lakes. [2-415]
[2-416 |] 1. Fondsbu to Torfinnsbu [2-417] The trip starts easily with a little more than four kilometers of hiking along Bygdin's west end on the main route toward Gjendebu. [2-418] After that it goes steeply up toward Høystakka and over the pond by bridge. [2-419] After another couple of kilometers, the route curves to the right into Oksedalen. [2-420] The valley could not possibly have gotten its name for lush pastures for cattle; there is too much scree and stone here for that. [2-421] The route ascends evenly and nicely up toward the pond innermost in the valley, and then it gets steeper over the gorge and down to Galdebergstjern. [2-422] There is often a large snowdrift in the gorge, so be careful. [2-423] The brook at the outlet from Galdebergstjern can be waded across of crossed by stepping from stone to stone, depending on how high the water is. [2-424] The route continues slackly out towards Langedalen and down along the river through the valley. [2-425] Langedalsåna is crossed via a footbridge, and after a little less than a kilometer, you will arrive down at Nybua, the forerunner of Torfinnsbua. [2-426] From there it is an easy and pleasant hike along the shoreline of Bygdin to Torfinnsbu. [2-427]
[2-428 |] 2. Torfinnsbu to Valdresflya VH or Bygdin Fjellhotell [2-429] There are at least two alternatives for the trip the next day, either to Valdresflya vandrerhjem (VH) or to Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-430] The latter trip is about one hour shorter. [2-431] The first five kilometers or so are in common. [2-432] After crossing Torfinnsdøla by bridge, the path goes generally along the edge of the water at Bygdin the entire way. [2-433] It does cross a number of brooks, some of them by bridge; one of the larger ones is at Hestevollen. [2-434] When you arrive here, you will quickly see that this must have been a place that horses enjoyed, and it is an excellent spot to stop for a rest for us humans, as well. [2-435] A little bit before Dymesodden, the path divides. [2-436] The branch to the left goes up in an even and steady ascent toward Valdresflya VH. [2-437] The right alternative continues to follow Bygdin's shoreline to Bygdisheim, which is unfortunately abandoned as a place to spend the night. [2-438] This is the end of the line for Bygdin proper also, but because of regulation, the lake continues all the way to Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-439] The last few kilometers to the hotel will have to be hiked along a road, but it is fortunately closed to motorized traffic. [2-440]
[2-441 |] Bygdin [2-442] Bygdin covers a total of 46 km2, is 28 km long and up to 2 km wide. [2-443] Thus, it is Jotunheimen's largest lake. [2-444] It was named for its elongated, curved shape. [2-445]
[2-446 |] M/B Bitihorn [2-447] In 1905, the same year that Nybod was formally opened, a passenger boat came to Bygdin. [2-448] The boat was actually purchased for use on Tyin, and the idea was to transport the boat first to Bygdin and then over the eddy from Eidsbugarden to Tyin, but the process took too long a time and was too expensive. [2-449] Instead, it was decided to put the boat in traffic on Bygdin Lake. [2-450] Tyin got its first motor boat in 1906. [2-451] Before passenger boat service began, the alternative was to rent a row boat and rowers for the tourists who wanted to travel the length of Bygdin without having to walk. [2-452] In 1912, the modern-day craft M/B Bitihorn was put in service, and after a few years, it was unsurpassed at Bygdin. [2-453] All summer long, it makes the round trip on the lake. [2-454] Thanks to the boat route, it is possible to expand the activity radius significantly when you hike in this area. [2-455] The boat trip in itself is a nice experience. [2-456] Especially Torfinnstindane makes a great impression seen from down at Bygdin. [2-457]
[2-458 |] Length [2-459] Torfinnsbu - Fondsbu, 7 hrs. [2-460] Torfinnsbu - Valdresflya VH, 4 hrs. [2-461] Torfinnsbu - Bygdin Fjellhotell, 3 hrs. [2-462]
[2-463 |] Overnight Accommodations [2-464] Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Torfinnsbu, Bygdin Fjellhotell and Valdresflya vandrerhjem (VH). [2-465]
[2-466 |] Communications [2-467] There is an automobile road and bus routes to Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Valdresflya VH and Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-468] There is a shuttle boat on Bygdin Lake. [2-469]
[2-470 |] Wilderness Trip in Leirungsdalen [2-471 |] 1 or more days - Trip 2d - gg-ggg [2-472]
[2-473] The marked route through spectacular Leirungsdalen south of Gjende is unfortunately no longer in use. [2-474] In Jotunheimen National Park, the innermost portion of the valley has been assigned status as an untamed wilderness, and because of that, the markings on the trail had to be removed. [2-475] This does not entail a ban on hiking in the area, but means that here hikers must use a map and compass to find their bearings. [2-476] The trip from Gjendesheim through the valley and then down to Torfinnsbu or Gjendebu through Svardalen is a long one. [2-477] You should expect to spend 8-9 hours, but if you are in reasonably good physical shape, this is not difficult to accomplish. [2-478] It is unwise, however, to hurry. [2-479] Instead, bring a tent, spend the night in Leirungsdalen and take a trip or three to the summits that rise like a string of pearls on both sides of the valley. [2-480] The first part of the route from Gjendesheim is described in Tour 2e. [2-481] In addition, the old trail is marked on the map. [2-482] It goes past Leirungene, straight across the lower portion of Leirungsdalen (and there is a bridge over the river), past Svarthammarbua and along the northern side of Leirungsåa all the way up toward the gorge in the direction of Svartdalen. [2-483] A much used alternative for those who visit the valley is also to park on the road over Valdresflya, at about the area marked with number 51, and then hike over the ravine south of Rauhamrane and into Leirungsdalen. [2-484] There is an excellent tenting site, by the way, in the Steindalen canyon. [2-485] During the war, German alpine troops camped here, and you can still see the circular foundations where their tents stood. [2-486] Steindalen is also an excellent starting point for the trip up Munken ridge and on through Kalvåhøgda.