[3-23 |] Facts [3-24] Skogadalsbøen was formally opened in 1888. [3-25 |] Owner: DNT. [3-26] Managers: Anne Serine Heggdal and Lars Åge Hilde. [3-27] The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 834 meters above sea level, and has a total of106 beds, including 24 in a separate self-service facility for use during off-seasons. [3-28 |] Tel. 975 69 094. [3-29 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [3-30]
[3-31 |] Ingjerdbu, Morkabu and Vetti [3-32 |] Pleasant spots in Utladalen [3-33]
[3-34] It is hard to hike through Vettismorki without being fascinated by the special natural surroundings up here. [3-35] Towering pine trees and lush vegetation is not to be taken for granted at 700 meters up in the air, and Norway's tallest single waterfall is also an experience (see box Trip 3a). [3-36] It is unwise to hike too rapidly through such surroundings. [3-37] Not that you have to do so, however. [3-38] Two small but excellent self-service lodges have been built at Vettismorki. [3-39] Morkabu and Ingjerdbu were raised by citizens of Vetti and are operated as self-service lodges. [3-40] The facilities are secured with usual DNT locks and are supplied with a store of simple provisions. [3-41] The self-service lodgings are well and good, but it is the mountain farm down in Utladalsjuvet itself that is the pride of the valley. [3-42] This spot has been owned by the same family since at least 1775, but it is possible that settlement here goes back to before the Black Plague. [3-43] The farm consists of almost 20 square miles. [3-44] This includes large expanses of mountain plains on both sides of Utladalen as well as the handsome virgin forest up at Vettismorki. [3-45] During the same year that DNT was founded, in 1868, Vetti hosted its first tourists, but it wasn't until Vetlestova was built in 1875 that the farm was awarded status as a tourist facility. [3-46] Vetti was for a long time one of the most important gateways to Jotunheimen, and it was impossible to go through Utladalen without spending the night at Vetti. [3-47] Before Turtagrø was built toward the end of the 1880's, this was the most convenient starting point for trips in Hurrungane, and several of the owners of Vetti were often used as mountain guides. [3-48] The Norwegian Meteorological Institute has also frequently called on the people of Vetti - for 101 years, they have reported on weather conditions. [3-49] A few years ago, unfortunately, the tourist facility was closed, but fortunately, there is still a cafeteria in operation during the summertime, so that it is possible to go inside and experience a little of the atmosphere of the old mountain farm. [3-50]
[3-51 |] Access [3-52] There is a road to Vetti, but it is closed to automobile traffic. [3-53] There are marked trails from Morkabu and Ingjerdbu to Vetti, Skogadalsbøen, Tyinholmen and Slettningsbu. [3-54]
[3-55 |] Facts [3-56] Vetti farm, no overnight accommodations, cafeteria open during the summer. [3-57] Morkabu was opened in 1985, Ingjerdbu in 1995. [3-58] The lodges are owned and operated by Vetti farm as self-service lodgings. [3-59] The facilities are located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 683 meters above sea level, and have 4 and 12 beds. [3-60] Tel.: Vetti: 57 66 30 24. [3-61]
[3-62 |] Avdalen and Gravdalen [3-63 |] Unrestricted, Peaceful and Abandoned [3-64] The Avdalen farm in Utladalen lies only a couple of kilometers from Hjelle, but the path to the farm was earlier so difficult to follow that it was only possible in the summertime. [3-65] When there was snow and ice on the hillside, it normally was too dangerous to climb, so that the people at the farm had to be self-sufficient for several months at a stretch. [3-66] History here is also a little spotty, but Avdalen farm is mentioned in the 1600's, and it is assumed that it was people from Luster who first cleared the pastureland up here; this is revealing about the accessibility from down in the valley nearby. [3-67] Lærdal pastor Ulrik Fredrik Bøyesen was mildly shocked by the road to the farm after a visit to Utladalen in 1818, and wrote a long treatise about it in a magazine: [3-68] «The fields were so dreadfully steep and so utterly close to the frightful cliffs, that no unaccustomed soul dared to venture there.» [3-69] The farm's location probably does not make the same impression on visitors today, but after the road was built on the valley floor, it is considerably easier to get to the farm. [3-70] A couple hundred meters along a good path brings one up. [3-71] Along the way, the path passes the abandoned Hagaberg farmstead, which at one time was a smallholding under Avdalen farm. [3-72] It was abandoned in the 1950's. [3-73] Up at Avdalen farm, however, there is still life and activity. [3-74] This likewise was abandoned in 1959, but industrious citizens of Årdal have restored large portions of the farm during recent years, so that it is possible for tourists who drop by during the summer to get both room and board. [3-75] Avdalen also has a self-service lodging that may be used all year round. [3-76] From the restored mountain farm, the path continues to, among other places, the unstaffed Gravdal lodge. [3-77] This is an old mountain smallholding under Avdalen that has been restored by Årdal Hiking Association. [3-78] Gravdalen is splendidly located above the tree line. [3-79] From up here there is, if possible, a finer panorama out toward Utladalen and the mountains on the eastern side of the valley than the one seen from down at the main farm. [3-80] It is unfortunate that so few hikers know about this gem. [3-81]
[3-82 |] Access [3-83] There are marked hiking trails to Avdalen and Gravdalen from Hjelle, Vetti and Stølsmaradalen. [3-84]
[3-85 |] Facts [3-86] Avdalen farm has been a tourist lodge since 1991. [3-87] The lodge is rented by Årdal Hiking Association and is operated as a staffed tourist facility for part of the summer. [3-88] The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 380 meters above sea level, and has 6 beds in the self-service annex. [3-89]
[3-90] Gravdalen was formally opened in 1975. [3-91] Årdal Hiking Association operates the unstaffed lodge. [3-92] The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 840 meters above sea level, and has two beds. [3-93]
[3-94 |] Skagastølsbu and Stølsmaradalen [3-95 |] Distinctive and Exciting [3-96]
[3-97] When you continue north in Utaladelen from Avdalen, you will come to idyllic Stølsmaradalen. [3-98] The site offers an open view toward Stølsnostind and has a pleasant pastureland atmosphere. [3-99] Stølsmaradalen was earlier a part of Vetti farm's property and was sold in 1787 by Jørgen A. Vetti to Tomas Hallvardson Midthun and Jon Melheim as a mountain farm. [3-100] There had probably not been this kind of activity here before. [3-101] The mountain farm was in use from 1940 to 1975. [3-102] The Tourist Association rented two of the farm buildings and renovated them. [3-103] The few hikers who find their way here are scarcely able to praise the place enough in the guest book, even though the cabin is not supplied with provisions. [3-104] Stop for a day and take the trip down to Stølsmaradal waterfall - from its summit, one can see, among other things, the beautiful cascades of water from the Fleskedal and Vetti waterfalls. [3-105] Stølsmaradalen is also an excellent starting point for trips to Hurrungane, even though this can't beat its neighbor in the northwest, Skagastølsbu. [3-106] The route there is unmarked, but if you use a map and a compass, you will find your way there. [3-107] The conditions at Skagastølsbu are less than idyllic. [3-108] The lodge is very exposed to the elements up on the strip between Midtmaradalen and Skagastølsdalen. [3-109] It was built here in 1890 as a shelter from avalanches and as a good starting point for mountain climbing in the area. [3-110] The breezy location has been a joy for generations of Norwegian climbers and hikers, but a cause of worry for its owners. [3-111] Already during the first winter, the lodge was blown down by gales. [3-112] It was obvious that at 1758 windblown meters above sea level, stronger materials than wood were required. [3-113] A new lodge, this time built of stone, was completed in 1894. [3-114] It has stood there ever since, but because of raw and humid conditions, it has been necessary to completely renovate the lodge several times. [3-115] With its unique location, the lodge is a perfect starting point for climbing outings on both Skagastølsryggen and Dyrehaugsryggen. [3-116] For the more experienced hikers, it is also a «must» to have been up to the «lodge on the strip». [3-117] The trip from Turtagrø up Skagastølsdalen, across the glacier and up onto the strip is magnificent, but requires knowledge about glacier hiking. [3-118]
[3-119 |] Access [3-120] There are no marked routes to Skagastølsbu. [3-121] Stølsmaradalen has marked routes to Avdalen and Vetti. [3-122]
[3-123 |] Facts [3-124] Skagastølsbu was first raised in 1890, the first stone lodge in 1894. [3-125] Owner: DNT. [3-126] The lodge is unstaffed. [3-127] The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1758 meters above sea level, and has 6 beds. [3-128]
[3-129] Stølsmaradalen was officially opened in 1975. [3-130] DNT rents to buildings and operates them as unstaffed lodgings. [3-131] The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 849 meters above sea level, and has 4 beds. [3-132]
[3-133 |] Leirvassbu [3-134 |] From Stone Cabin to Mountain Hotel [3-135] Emanuel Mohn, one of our greatest mountain pioneers, was also one of the originators of Leivassbu. [3-136] In DNT's yearbook for 1873, he suggested that the association set up a simple stone cabin at the point where Visdalen, Leirdalen and Gravdalen meet. [3-137] It took only two years for the project to be realized, so that building application processing and long-term planning then went considerably faster than today, both in DNT and other places. [3-138] In the long run, a simple stone cabin at Leirvannet proved insufficient to house the increasing number of mountain wanderers who gradually came to see this part of Jotunheimen. [3-139] Amund Elveseter, one of the owners down at Ytterdalssetrene, recognized the demand and moved his house further up in the valley. [3-140] He was given financial support from DNT for transportation and expansion, and in 1887, he and his wife Anne were able to begin hosting guests up in Slethamn, five kilometers from Leirvann. [3-141] It rapidly became a popular tourist lodge. [3-142] Amund died in 1904, and one of the last events he experienced was the unfortunate avalanche that razed the lodge to the ground. [3-143] Fortunately, his son Rasmus was also an industrious lad; he moved the tourist lodge again. [3-144] This time, the building site became the one that so many tourists up through the years have lauded as Jotunheimen's finest - at the foot of Kyrkja and on the shores of Leivannet. [3-145] The new Leirvassbu was completed in 1906. [3-146] The continued story - as for most of the lodges in Jotunheimen - is a tale of renovation and expansion, first through the efforts of Rasmus and his wife Magnhild, and then later by son Åmund and his wife Jessie as driving forces. [3-147] They developed their homestead of Elveseter down in Bøverdalen into a veritable treasure, while at the same time upgrading Leirvassbu to modern hotel standards, installing electricity and telephone service, and building a road. [3-148] The business of operating both Elveseter and Leirvassbu, however, became a too much, and Åmund has for many years subleased Leirvassbu to other skillful people. [3-149] They have managed to preserve the pleasant environment of the establishment that has so much to offer mountain hikers and alpine skiers. [3-150] In addition, the first stone cabin that DNT built is to be found newly restored on the hill just below the modern tourist lodge. [3-151]
[3-152 |] Access [3-153] There is an automobile road to the lodge. [3-154]
[3-155 |] Facts [3-156] Leirvassbu was built as a stone cabin in 1875 by DNT. [3-157] The first tourist lodge was completed in 1906. [3-158 |] Owner: Åmund Elveseter. [3-159] Managers: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. [3-160 |] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1405 meters above sea level, and has 190 beds. [3-161 |] Tel.: 61 21 29 32. [3-162] E-mail: lvassbu@online.no [3-163]
[3-164 |] Fannaråken [3-165 |] Norway's Highest-elevated Tourist Lodge [3-166]
[3-167] Like a mighty guardian above the century-old traveled road across Sognefjellet, Fannaråken sprawls out, broad and somber and most often veiled in fog. [3-168] A mute warning of stormy, bad weather. [3-169] But from time to time, the summit is tempting, light and fair. [3-170] At such times, one concludes that this is one of the great peaks of Jotunheimen that is most easily accessible. [3-171] Having once reached the summit, one will discover that Fannaråken is one of the finest vantage points in Norway, under good weather conditions. [3-172] Hurrungane's row of peaks is so close by that one is almost tempted to reach out and touch them. [3-173] The panorama toward Smørstabbreen to the east is practically full. [3-174] In Breheimen to the west, one sees large portions of the impressive Jostedal glacier and the entire row of peaks as far as Holåtinder and Hestbrepigger farthest up in the north. [3-175] Already in 1926, the Meteorological Institute's Western Norway division erected an observatory on the summit of Fannaråken and stationed two weather observers there all year round. [3-176] They wanted an elevated outlook post where one could see the storms coming in from the west as early as possible in order to forecast them. [3-177] It was a tough existence, with a lot of stormy weather and a perpetual battle with ice, snow and dampness almost year round. [3-178] In times when the weather was seriously stormy, it was hardly possible to go outdoors at all. [3-179] DNT had contributed a sum of money to the building of the station, and tourists were able to use one room in the observatory. [3-180] The room quickly became too small, and in 1934, the first tourist lodge was completed after an impressive work of logistics, in which pack horses, winches, cables and carrying were needed to bring up the thirty tons of materials needed to build 12 beds, day room and a kitchen 2068 meters above sea level. [3-181] The lodge has since been expanded and modernized a number of times and is today a very popular hiking destination, whether one wants to spend the night or not. [3-182]
[3-183 |] Access [3-184] There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Sognefjellet and Skogadalsbøen. [3-185]
[3-186 |] Facts [3-187] Fannaråkhytta has hosted tourists since 1926. [3-188 |] Owner: DNT OA. [3-189] The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 2068 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds. [3-190 |] Tel. : 941 35 993. [3-191 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [3-192]
[3-193 |] Turtagrø Klatrernes hotell [3-194 |] Access [3-195] The Sognefjell road goes past the hotel. [3-196] There are marked hiking trails to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu and Stølsdalen. [3-197] The road over Sognefjellet is closed during the winter, but it is normally snow-plowed as far as Turtagrø. [3-198]
[3-199 |] Facts [3-200] Turtagrø was built in 1888. [3-201] The hotel is owned and operated by Ole Berge Drægni. [3-202] The hotel is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 884 meters above sea level, and has 80 beds. [3-203 |] Tel. : 57 68 61 16. [3-204 |] E-mail: turtagro@online.no [3-205 |] Web: www.skjolden-com/bylus/turtagro.html [3-206]
[3-207 |] Olavsbu See description in pamphlet 2 [3-208 |] Access [3-209] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Skogadalsbøen, Eidsbugarden and Fondsbu. [3-210]
[3-211 |] Facts [3-212] Olavsbu self-service lodge was formally opened in 1952. [3-213] Owner: DNT OA. [3-214] The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1440 meters above sea level, and has 40 beds. [3-215 |] Tel. : None. [3-216 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [3-217]
[3-218 |] Stølsdalen See description in pamphlet 4 [3-219 |] Access [3-220] There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalseter and Herva at Skålavatnet. [3-221]
[3-222 |] Facts [3-223] Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is operated as a self-service lodge. [3-224] Owner: DNT OA. [3-225] Located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1040 meters above sea level, and has 8 beds. [3-226 |] Tel. : None. [3-227 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [3-228]
[3-229 |] Krossbu See description in pamphlet 4 [3-230]
[3-231 |] Access [3-232] The Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, where there are regularly scheduled bus stops. [3-233] There are marked hiking trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/ guided glacier trips), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/ guided glacier trips). [3-234]
[3-235 |] Facts [3-236] Krossbu Tourist Facility began operation in 1902. [3-237 |] Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. [3-238] Krossbu Tourist Facility is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1260 meters above sea level, and has 85 beds. [3-239] Tel. : 61 21 29 22. [3-240]
[3-241 |] Eidsbugarden [3-242 |] See description in pamphlet 2 [3-243 |] Access [3-244] There is an automobile road to the hotel and shuttle boat routes over Bygdin. [3-245] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. [3-246]
[3-247 |] Facts [3-248] Vinjestova, the forerunner of Eidsbugarden Hotel, was opened in 1868. [3-249] Owner: Hans Martin Skagen. [3-250] Manager: Leif Skagen. [3-251] The hotel is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. [3-252 |] Tel. : 61 36 77 14. [3-253 |] E-mail: ocdahl@online.no [3-254]
[3-255 |] Sognefjellhytta [3-256 |] See description in pamphlet 4 [3-257 |] Access [3-258] The Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, where there are bus stops. [3-259] There are marked hiking trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/ guided glacier trips), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/ guided glacier trips). [3-260]
[3-261 |] Facts: [3-262] Sognefjellhytta was opened in 1947. [3-263] Owner: Anne Tove Mundhjeld and Arnfinn Jensen. [3-264] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1415 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. [3-265 |] Tel. : 61 21 29 34. [3-266 |] E-mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com [3-267 |] Web: www.sognefjellet.com [3-268]
[3-269 |] Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer [3-270 |] Access [3-271] Automobile road past the facility. [3-272] Marked hiking trails to Skogadalsbøen, Vettismorki and Slettningsbu. [3-273]
[3-274 |] Facts [3-275] Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer has hosted tourists since 1893. [3-276] Owners: Inger Sagstuen and Erling Olsen. [3-277] The place is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1080 meters above sea level, and has 65 beds. [3-278] Tel. : 61 36 78 88. [3-279]
[3-280 |] Gjendebu See description in pamphlet 1 [3-281 |] Access [3-282] Shuttle boats serve Gjende all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu and Torfinnsbu. [3-283]
[3-284 |] Facts [3-285] Gjendebu was formally opened in 1871. [3-286] Owner: DNT OA. [3-287] Managers: Aase and Håkon Dalen. [3-288] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 990 meters above sea level, and has 119 beds, including 34 beds in the self-service annex. [3-289 |] Tel.: 61 23 89 44. [3-290 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [3-291]
[3-292 |] Fondsbu See description in pamphlet 2 [3-293 |] Access [3-294] There is an automobile road to Fondsbu and a shuttle boat over Bygdin. [3-295] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. [3-296 |] Facts [3-297] Fondsbu turisthytte was opened in 1993. [3-298 |] Owner: Fondsfinans AS. [3-299 |] Managers: DNT OA c/o Nina Schreiber and Helge Lindstad. [3-300] The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1065 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. [3-301 |] Tel.: 970 74 218. [3-302 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [3-303 |] Web: www.eidsbugarden.com [3-304]
[3-305 |] Utladalen Lengthwise [3-306 |] Trip 3a - 3-4 days - gg [3-307] If you want to visit only one valley in Jotunheimen, I would suggest that you choose Utladalen and begin at Fannaråken. [3-308] This will allow you to experience a cross section of what the mountain area has to offer. [3-309 |] 1. Turtagrø to Fannaråken [3-310] The majority of people who visit Utladalen begin from Øvre Årdal and Hjelle and take the trip up through the valley, but I am more in favor of starting from the north and hiking downward (but with a few exceptions). [3-311] From this direction there are several starting points: either from Turtagrø and across Keisaren, or from Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu via Vetleutladalen. [3-312] My favorite, however, is to start the trip down Utladalen and spend a night up at Fannaråken. [3-313] This of course means that you also start out here with a rather tough uphill climb, but it is worth it. [3-314] If you are lucky and have nice weather up there, you will have a unique view out toward the area you will be going down into. [3-315] Before the sun goes down somewhere behind Jostedal glacier, the last rays will turn Hurrungane's craggy peaks golden yellow, and Gjertvasstind, Styggedalstinder and Skagastølstinder are especially impressive from your opera box vantage point atop Fannaråken. [3-316] It is more than a thousand-meter ascent from Turtagrø to Fannaråken, but the path is excellent and the rise is quite even. [3-317] The path goes into Helgedalen, partly parallel with a very newly finished farm road toward Keisaren to Skautevatnet. [3-318] It is closed to normal traffic, but you can ride a bicycle in through the valley and leave it where the path and the road divide. [3-319] The path goes past Ekrehytta, and from there the path winds all the way to the summit. [3-320] Fannaråkhytta is located on the very top. [3-321]
[3-322 |] 2. Fannaråkhytta to Skogadalsbøen [3-323] When the weather is nice atop Fannaråken, you will surely delay your departure, but no matter, the day's leg is feasible. [3-324] It starts along the lengthy ridge on Fannaråken to Fannaråknosa. [3-325] From there it descends steadily and evenly, first to Keisarpasset (yes, it is so magnificent that it deserves its name) and then down to Gjertvassdalen. [3-326] It is very rocky in the beginning, but grassy terrain gradually takes over, and down over the hillside, the ground is green and lush. [3-327] It is not hard to understand why this has been a desirable grazing area for a long time. [3-328] The first mountain farms that were built in Utladalen were probably the ones in Gruidalen or at nearby Gjertvassbøen sometime during the 1700's. [3-329] Later, Murane and Lusahaugane were raised across the valley at the mouth of Storutladalen. [3-330] The quality of Utladalen's pastureland is so good that farmers from Luster, until recently, took the trouble to herd their livestock down the long and perilous trail from their valley and over to Keisaren. [3-331] In our time, domesticated livestock are not as sure-footed as earlier, and this perhaps explains the newly constructed road in Helgedalen, although still today at least part of the valley is used as pasture. [3-332] Not as much, however, as previously. [3-333] After passing Utla over a solid bridge, the path disappears into a dense birch forest. [3-334] If you examine old pictures of the valley, this forest appears rather sparse. [3-335] Its growth is undoubtedly due to less grazing and reduced woodcutting compared with the past. [3-336] After a couple of kilometers, you emerge from the woods and go down to the idyllic Skogadalsbøen tourist lodge. [3-337]
[3-338 |] 3. Skogadalsbøen to Ingjerdbu, Vetti or Hjelle [3-339] The trip down through Utladalen from Skogadalsbøen also begins with an uphill climb. [3-340] The tourist lodge lies snugly sheltered at just 834 meters above sea level, and if you follow the path south, you will have to inch your way almost to 1300 meters in order to get past Friken. [3-341] Along the way, the trail divides two times. [3-342] First, there are the routes to Olavsbu, Gjendebu and Fondsbu bearing off to the left and after 500 meters comes the trail to Tyinholmen through Uradalen bearing off toward the east. [3-343] Once you have reached the top of Friken, you will be able to enjoy both the excellent view and the fact that the rest of the trip runs downhill. [3-344] First you will come to the old mountain pasture Fleskedalen, where there is a new fork in the road toward Tyinholmen and finally ending at elegant Vettismorki. [3-345] Here there is an opportunity to spend the night in the self-service lodges of Ingjerdbu or Morkabu, owned and operated by Vetti Farm. [3-346] The lodges are not far from the summit of the impressive Vettisfossen, which you definitely must see. [3-347] Hjelle is also close enough that you can hike there on the same day, first steeply downhill to the old mountain farm Vetti (food, but no lodging) and then along the pleasant, traffic-free gravel road to Hjelle. [3-348]
[3-349 |] Jotunheimen's most beautiful valley [3-350] Like the gash from a divine axe, Utladalen cleaves its way north from Øvre Årdal and far into the Jotunheimen mountains. [3-351] The gash from the axe is more than 40 kilometers long and doesn't stop until it reaches the top of Sognefjellet. [3-352] The gap separates Hurrungane from Stølsnostindane and Fannaråkbreen from Smørstabbreen. [3-353] To complete this work of creation, the chasm is filled with gushing rivers and spectacular waterfalls from a score of side valleys, and topping it all, a generous hand has sprinkled a shower of color from Nature's palette - the entire spectrum from lush green to icy blue. [3-354] Around Utladalen there are more than 50 peaks more than 2000 meters tall, but despite the steepness and the fierce formations, it is a fact that the color green is much more predominant than ice. [3-355] Even though it appears inaccessible, generations of people have lived many places here, both on the valley floor and up along the plunging, steep mountainsides. [3-356] Today, both farming and summer grazing are basically activities of the past, but many of the houses still stand and have been converted for use as tourist lodges. [3-357] A hike down the length of this valley is a rare experience. [3-358 |] Utladalen Nature House [3-359] This is a small information center located in the old farm building and residence at the Skåri Farm at Hjelle, just inside the boundaries of the Utladalen Landscape Preserve. [3-360] The exhibit relates the history of the natural environment and cultural history in West Jotunheimen. [3-361] DNT and the National Directorate for Nature Management provide their own information at Nature House. [3-362] During the summer, there is a café in the residence building. [3-363] Utladalen Nature House is ancillary to the Norwegian Mountain Museum in Lom, which has national park center status. [3-364]
[3-365 |] Day trips around Skogadalsbøen [3-366] Skogadalsbøen is a fine starting point for climbing to the summit of Gjertvasstind's 2351 meters. [3-367] The trip is often called «Norway's longest uphill climb», so you should expect a rather demanding day's outing, but it is manageable if you are in normally good shape. [3-368] At the end of the trip agenda is a trip down to the abandoned mountain farm at Vormeli. [3-369] It is located about 600 meters above sea level, and it can also be combined with a trip to the ruins of Gjertvassbøen, along Utla, and back. [3-370]
[3-371 |] Elegant Vettismorki [3-372] Elegant is the right word when referring to Vettismorki - the row of towering, handsome giant pine trees are far more germane to southern climes. [3-373] Several of the trees are nearly 800 years old, and it is almost incredible to find such luxuriance more than 700 meters above sea level. [3-374] The wooded areas up here in several spots appear to be pure virgin woods, but appearances are deceptive. [3-375] Through the years, there has been considerable deforestation. [3-376] In the beginning of the 1700's, the copper mine at Gruvefjellet (west of Årdal) required a lot of lumber, and also in the 1800's, many trees were felled. [3-377] The lumber was sent over the Vetti waterfall during late winter. [3-378] The waterfall has created an enormous ice deposit at its foot, perhaps as much as 80 meters high, serving to break the falling cascade. [3-379] Until Årdal and Sunndal Works began production of aluminum in Øvre Årdal, the woods had recovered considerably, and in addition to the many large pines, there were many young pine saplings. [3-380] The forest made good progress from about 1930, and this was due to an improved climate and reduced grazing. [3-381] Fluoride gas from Årdal, however, has severely damaged the wooded areas. [3-382]
[3-383 |] Vettisfossen [3-384] After Mardalsfossen was regulated, Vettisfossen is the country's highest free-falling waterfall. [3-385] If you choose to make the trip down the steep mountainsides to Vetti, you should also treat yourself to a detour from the mountain farm and over to the Vetti waterfall. [3-386] The sight of the 275-meter cascade down into Utladalen is an experience that is definitely breathtaking even for the most blasé of us. [3-387] If you are careful, you can come in close underneath the falls. [3-388] The sensation you feel as you cock your head back to glimpse the point where the cascade leaves the ledge above, and at the same time being showered with the spray from the waterfall, is also fantastic. [3-389] Bear in mind that during some winters, the fall freezes into a continuous column of ice that adventurous climbers have made their way up. [3-390] If you choose to remain up at Vettismorki, you can also experience the falls in all their glory. [3-391] There is a path to the lookout platform, and if you lean out over the edge, you will be able to confirm that the Vesttisfossen provides an overwhelming sensation seen from the top as well. [3-392]
[3-393 |] Length [3-394] Turtagrø - Fannaråkhytta, 4 hrs. up, 3 hrs. down. [3-395] Fannaråken - Skogadalsbøen, 4 hrs down, 5 hrs. up. [3-396] Sognefjellet - Skogadalsbøen, 5 hrs. [3-397] Turtagrø - Skogadalsbøen, 6 hrs. [3-398] Skogadalsbøen - Ingjerdbu, 5 hrs. [3-399] Ingjerdbu - Hjelle, 2 hrs. [3-400]
[3-401 |] Overnight Accommodations [3-402] Turtagrø, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Skogadalsbøen, Ingjerdbu, Morkabu. [3-403]
[3-404 |] Public transportation [3-405] Bus routes to both Øvre Årdal and to Turtagrø and Sognefjellet. [3-406] Automobile road to Hjelle from Øvre Årdal. [3-407]
[3-408 |] Round trip at Sognefjellet [3-409 |] Trip 3b - 3 days - gg [3-410]
[3-411] This is a varied and pleasant little round trip that will provide you with a taste of glaciers, heights and the fertile Utladalen valley. [3-412]
[3-413 |] 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Fannaråkhytta [3-414] There is a marked route from both tourist lodges to the edge of Fannaråkbreen glacier. [3-415] The routes converge before Prestesteinsvatnet and run together to the glacier. [3-416] If you plan to cross the glacier, you will have to have experience hiking on glaciers and the necessary equipment, or go with a guide. [3-417] There are daily guided glacier hikes from the beginning of July to the end of August. [3-418] The guide stays at Fannaråken and meets tourists at the lower edge of the glacier at 1 p.m. You will have to provide information as to whether you want guiding to Krossbu or to Sognefjellhytta the evening before. [3-419] The route across the glacier is steep in the beginning, but gradually slackens off. [3-420] There are both crevices and water holes that may be covered with snow, so beware. [3-421] The route goes toward the steep eastern incline of Fannaråken, and it is somewhat sloping and steep toward the end, before you get to the mountain ridge and merge onto the route from Skogadalsbøen. [3-422] From Fannaråknosi and as far as the lodge, there is a path on a plateau offering a fine panorama. [3-423]
[3-424 |] 2. Fannaråkhytta til Skogadalsbøen [3-425] See Trip 3a. [3-426 |] 3. Skogadalsbøen to Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [3-427] For the first kilometers, the route goes through dense birch woods, but after you have crossed the river at Storebrua, the forest ends. [3-428] The route passes the old pasture in Guridalen and continues up the valley on the western side of the river. [3-429] There are also bridges over Kongsdøla and Steindøla, and one kilometer after the latter, the path divides. [3-430] The route to the left goes to Sognefjellhytta, and the one on the right goes to Krossbu. [3-431] The distance to either lodge is about the same, and the markings on the trail are good, so that you can let your taste in lodges dictate the choice of route. [3-432]
[3-433 |] Length [3-434] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Fannaråkhytta, 5 hrs. [3-435] Fannaråkhytta - Skogadalsbøen, 4 hrs. down, 5 hrs. up. [3-436] Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, 5 hrs. [3-437]
[3-438 |] Overnight Accommodations [3-439] Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta and Skogadalsbøen. [3-440]
[3-441 |] Public Transportation [3-442] Automobile road with regularly scheduled bus routes Sognefjellet. [3-443]
[3-444 |] Around Glaciers and Summits in West Jotunheimen [3-445]
[3-446] This is a truly grand trip that offers glacier hiking, high mountain passes, deep valleys and ample opportunities for detours to Jotunheimen's great peaks. [3-447]
[3-448 |] 1. Leirvassbu to Olavsbu [3-449] We begin with an easy and pleasant opening on our round trip. [3-450] The route starts with a slight climb up the ridge toward Høgvaglen. [3-451] After one kilometer's hike, the trail bears down from the ridge and passes along the eastern side of first the upper, then the lower of the Høgvagl ponds. [3-452] Here there is some rocky scree, but the ground becomes easier as the path curves southward. [3-453] The brook from Nedre Høgvagltjønn may be crossed by stepping from stone to stone or wading across. [3-454] The lower lake at Semmeldalsmunnen is passed on the eastern side and the next one likewise. [3-455] The going is steep up to Raudalsbandet, and there usually are some snow drifts in this area. [3-456] If the drifts are slippery, one can opt for a slacker ascent by staying a little farther to the east. [3-457] Up on Raudalsbandet, visibility is once again open. [3-458] From here the ascent begins to both Skardalstind (see pamphlet 2) and Eastern Raudalstind (see box). [3-459] From the strip and down to Olavsbu, the descent if even and pleasant. [3-460 |] 2. Olavsbu to Fondsbu [3-461] From Olavsbu, there are two routes running west toward Skogadalsbøen, and both are good alternatives for those who prefer a shorter round trip than the one I suggest. [3-462] If you want to have an even longer round trip, you may instead continue through Raudalen to Gjendebu and then continue west to Fondsbu. [3-463] I suggest, however, an intermediate option, i.e. that you hike to Fondsbu and then go over to Skogadalsbøen. [3-464] The day trek over to Fondsbu runs along the base of Mjølkedalstind, Sjogholstind and Storegut, so if you feel energetic, the latter two are conveniently located for a detour along the way. [3-465] Moreover, the route to Fondsbu is quite easy. [3-466] There is a little rocky terrain up to the gorge north of Sjogholstind. [3-467] After that, you round the lake and go over yet another gorge, before heading out toward the large Mjølkedalsvatnet. [3-468] Along the eastern shore of this, over yet another ridge and then downhill toward Fondsbu. [3-469]
[3-470 |] 3. Fondsbu to Skogadalsbøen [3-471] The next day's leg is a little longer than the two previous ones, and there are several possible routes. [3-472] I suggest that you make the trip over Sløtafjellet and Uradalen; this is varied and pleasant trip. [3-473] The day begins uphill here also; it is good to get the blood circulating. [3-474] Kvitevatnet is passed on the western side. [3-475] An alternative route to Skogadalsbøen goes over Uranosbreen and Skogadalsbreen, and this line (which of course is not on the map) begins along the eastern side of Kvitevatnet. [3-476] The trip requires glacier hiking skills. [3-477] We continue over toward Uradalsvatnet, and at the outlet, you should expect some wading; you will have to wade in the river from Kvitevatnet, as well. [3-478] The route continues along the western shore of Uradalsvatnet and then steadily uphill toward the gorge across to Uradalen itself. [3-479] Here, on the other hand, there is a lot of even terrain, but the valley has been named appropriately, so you should expect to hike across a lot of stony ground, especially toward the end, when the path crosses Storura. [3-480] From there, the descent is steeper down into lush Utladalen and out to Skogadalsbøen. [3-481]
[3-482 |] 4. Skogadalsbøen to Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [3-483] See description in Trip 3b. [3-484]
[3-485 |] 5. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Leirvassbu over Smørstabbreen [3-486] Every morning at about 9:30 a.m. during the summer season from the beginning of July until mid-August, a guide sets out from Leirvassbu taking tourists west across Smørstabbreen. [3-487] At the same time, a guide starts out from Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta taking tourists east across the glacier. [3-488] You may register for the trip at all three lodges the evening before. [3-489] Following a guide across the glacier is a good alternative for hikers other than those lacking glacier hiking experience, and it is not very expensive, either. [3-490] The guide has rope, crampons and necessary safety equipment. [3-491] The route goes up to 1800 meters above sea level and is challenging in poor weather, so be extra particular about bringing proper wind clothing, rain wear and warm garments. [3-492] From the west side, the hike goes up onto the glacier, usually on the northern side of Bøverbreen, and then further south of Kalven and toward Storebjørn. [3-493] From there, it goes downhill on the glacier toward Sandelvbreen, across it and then a little upward again toward Surtningsbreen and across it. [3-494] The glacier is quite steep, so here you need to be extra careful when the snow is hard. [3-495] From Skaret between Surtningstind and Stetind, there is a path running west and down into Gravdalen. [3-496] The final kilometers to Leirvassbu may be hiked either on the old service road in the valley, or along a path that runs more or less parallel with the road. [3-497]
[3-498 |] Trips around Olavsbu [3-499] In addition to the trips in pamphlet 2, a couple other high points should be mentioned as excellent destinations around Olavsbu. [3-500] Mjøkedalstind is an obvious choice. [3-501] It was conquered already in 1881 by William C. Slingsby and Johannes Vigdal, and they characterized it as one of Norway's most gracious peaks. [3-502] The summit is breezy, especially the last portion of the ridge and the trip up to the ridge is steep, but if you are careful, it is a feasible trip for most mountain hikers. [3-503] The other peak I want to emphasize is Austre Raudalstind. [3-504] It is accessed most easily from the north side. [3-505] You will have to go up to Raudalsbandet and across Simledalsbandet and from there up the ridge west of the peak before you set course toward the summit marker. [3-506]
[3-507 |] Many Trips Around Leirvassbu [3-508] For those who want to do the summits in Jotunheimen, there is scarcely another lodge that is so conveniently located in terms of two thousand-meter peaks than Leirvassbu. [3-509] All around the lodge, there is a veritable multitude of peaks and crests offering opportunities for scaling and climbing at all levels of difficulty. [3-510] All you need to do is consult one of the good guide books that have been published in recent years, lace up your rucksack and get going. [3-511] The most important destinations are obvious. [3-512] Kyrkja's characteristic profile towers over Leirvassbu, and the trip to the top is almost mandatory for anyone who stays at the lodge. [3-513] The normal way up goes from the south and is quite easy, but breezy. [3-514] The route first runs up over a broad crest that is covered with rough rocky scree. [3-515] The uppermost hundred meters here are very steep and narrow. [3-516] If you want to climb more, the choice is yours: Raudalstindar, Høgevagltindar, Visbretindar and Urdadalstindar - just to mention a few - are all here to tempt you. [3-517] For glacier hikers, choices are also plentiful. [3-518] It is no wonder the choice fell on this lodge when DNT was to begin arranging their so-called alpine courses - both glacier hiking and climbing at the same time - toward the end of the 1980's. [3-519] North toward the Galdhøpiggen massif, there are a series of small but interesting glaciers. [3-520] At Easter, a really festive outing is to go from Leirvassbu, via Visdalen and across a number of these glaciers, and then around Galdhøpiggen through Porten and on down to Juvasshytta. [3-521] In the past, this route was marked with sticks. [3-522] On the western side, it is primarily mighty Smørstabbreen that entices glacier hikers. [3-523] There are guided trips here all summer. [3-524] This is a fine alternative for everyone, not just those who lack glacier skills and need to follow a guide. [3-525] In addition, there is fishing in Leirvann, as well as an interesting geological trail down to Slethamn. [3-526] In other words, one doesn't have to have sunshine and blue skies to take worthwhile trips in the area around Leirvassbu. [3-527]
[3-528 |] To Langeskavltind from Fondsbu [3-529] In pamphlet 2 you will find several suggestions for day trips around Fondsbu, but the map for the best trip is covered only by this pamphlet, namely a trip to Langeskavltind. [3-530] It begins by following the marked trail toward Olavsbu to the place where it leaves the shoreline of Mjølkedalsvatnet at the foot of mighty Storegut. [3-531] (You reach the summit most easily from the backside at the upper Mjøkedal pond.) [3-532] Continue around the larger Mjølkedalsvatnet and up the surface of Mjølkedalsbreen (you must also have knowledge about glacier hiking and the necessary equipment). [3-533] After that, both Langeskavltind and Uraknatten are conveniently located for a visit. [3-534] Not to mention big brother himself, Uranostind, 2157 meters. [3-535] The return trip may be made over Langeskavlen, and you will have completed a memorable round trip. [3-536] If you are not so ambitious or lack glacier hiking skills, I suggest that you go around Mjølkedalsvatnet on the narrow tongue of land to the northwest and follow the river down toward Bygdin. [3-537]
[3-538 |] Length [3-539] Olavsbu - Leirvassbu, 4 hrs. [3-540] Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Skogadalen), 6 hrs. [3-541] Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Raudalen), 6 hrs. [3-542] Olavsbu - Fondsbu, 5 hrs. [3-543] Fondsbu - Skogadalsbøen, through Uradalen, 7 hrs. [3-544] Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, 5 hrs. [3-545] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Smørstabbreen - Leirvassbu, 6 hrs. [3-546]
[3-547 |] Overnight Accommodations [3-548] Leirvassbu, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, Skogadalsbøen, Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta. [3-549]