[0-3] The mountains between Sognefjorden and Valdresflya, Breheimen and Skarvheimen include the whole range of Norwegian mountain scenery. [0-4] There are extensive glaciers and a greater number of peaks above six thousand feet in elevation than anywhere else in Norway, as well as deep valleys, wide plateaus, and a very rich flora and fauna. [0-5] To cover this all in one go is, of course, out of the question, but even if you can only spare a weekend, you will get a real taste. [0-6] Whether you prefer hut-to-hut walking or staying in one place and making day trips, there are plenty of possibilities. [0-7] These four booklets will present tidbits from the varied menu of Jotunheimen that will satisfy a craving for nature, culture, and hiking alike. [0-8] The booklets contain the most important information you need to gain a variety of experiences in Jotunheimen: a bit on history and on the landscape, a presentation of the lodging available, different trip suggestions, advice on clothing and equipment and what to do in an emergency. [0-9] It is up to you to pick a hike that suits your abilities - and to use your judgment along the way. [0-10] My hope is then that you will enjoy a taste of Jotunheimen that will lure you back. [0-11]
[0-12] Happy hiking! [0-13] Per Roger Lauritzen [0-14]
[0-15 |] From Hunters to Tourists [0-16]
[0-17] Finds of ancient weapons and trappers' pits indicate that reindeer were hunted in Jotunheimen thousands of years ago. [0-18] Mountain legends and myths speak of how this region early gained an important place in the minds of our ancestors; and arrowheads have been found so high up that it is clear that even the tallest mountains did not scare them away. [0-19] Jotunheimen's first primitive huts were probably built before 1300. [0-20] They were humble structures of rough timber or local rocks piled up to give shelter for the first people summering here. [0-21] Their animals had to stay in the open for centuries yet, but at night the herd was better off in a pen, for bears and wolves were abundant - and eager to attack. [0-22] The first summer farms probably started due to insufficient pasturage in the valleys and perhaps also thanks to a desire to combine mountain hunting and gathering with livestock farming. [0-23] The long trek and primitive lodging were made up for by the rich pastures and healthy living for the animals during the summer. [0-24] Even in the winter there were people at some summer farms, especially in Sjodalen. [0-25] Many farms sent their livestock to the mountains again in late fall to make use of the fodder stashed away at the summer farm. [0-26] It is likely that the tradition of mountain grazing for meat production began as early as the Middle Ages. [0-27] Traders visited rural areas in twinter to buy cattle. [0-28] In the spring the animals were gathered in large herds and driven into the mountains to feed off the many rich pastures, such as at Bygdin and in Leirungsdalen. [0-29] In the fall the herd was driven on to the city to be sold for slaughter. [0-30] Back then a settler, a dairymaid, a drover, or a reindeer hunter in Jotunheimen undoubtedly led a harder life than people today can imagine, and it is unlikely that our ancestors looked upon the mountains as a fairyland. [0-31] And yet there is reason to believe that they did have an eye for the beauty and diversity in the Jotunheimen landscape. [0-32] The tales of exploits and incidents in the mountains still told in the countryside testify to the value placed on nature. [0-33] In the early 1800s the first scientists and artists found their way into Jotunheimen. [0-34] Some English tourists followed, while the first true Norwegian tourist came only in 1854. [0-35] He was Axel Arbo, who in 1854 hiked in Utladalen and the following year climbed Galdhøpiggen. [0-36] The first tourists venturing into the "Giant Mountains" ( which was the name used until the writer A. O. Vinje launched his more poetic name, Jotunheimen ("Home of the Giants"), in 1862) were dependent on the few farm huts for shelter. [0-37] The most frequently visited among those have later developed into large, popular hikers' huts. [0-38] The private huts Spiterstulen, Memurubu, and Leirvassbu, along with DNT's Gjendebu and Skogadalsbøen, can all trace their roots back to the mid-1800s or earlier. [0-39] In 1874 the first Norwegian trail to sport DNT's traditional red T was ready from Besseter in Sjodalen, over Besseggen, to Memurubu. [0-40] Jotunheimen is nowadays the Norwegian mountain region that draws most hikers. [0-41] Every summer more than 30,000 of them walk in Peer Gynt's footsteps along Besseggen. [0-42] Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind also serve as magnets for hikers, and the peaks of Hurrungane, to the west, attract climbers and glacier walkers. [0-43] Since that first marked path, the trail system has expanded to more than four hundred miles. [0-44] In the winter, and especially at Easter time, DNT and private hut operators also put down stakes to mark some three hundred and fifty miles of ski trails. [0-45] If moving along marked trails and staying at huts in a gorgeous mountain setting appeals to you, Jotunheimen gives you a variety of choices. [0-46] And if you prefer to stay clear of beaten paths and huts, your options are still ample; the area provides acreage enough for those seeking space, peace, and challenge. [0-47]
[0-48 |] The Norwegian Mountain Museum [0-49] A visit to the Norwegian Mountain Museum in Lom will give you a good look at the natural history of the area. [0-50] It also has equipment and documentation relating to the history of hiking and climbing and DNT, put together by the club. [0-51] The museum also serves as a center for Jotunheimen National Park and has local tourist information. [0-52]
[0-53 |] A Varied Flora and Fauna [0-54] The rocks of Jotunheimen are some one billion years old and were heaved into place here by giant forces around four hundred million years ago. [0-55] Since then weathering has scoured and shaped the landscape we see today in a process that still continues. [0-56] The terrain ranges from rugged, barren mountains and large glaciers to deep valleys and verdant hillsides. [0-57] In many places erosion has created fertile soil; and since there is generally plenty of sun and precipitation, conditions are often conducive to plant growth. [0-58] Differences in elevation and temperature naturally tend to produce a considerable diversity in the vegetation. [0-59] In such places as Vettismorki and Sjodalen there are rows of giant, aged pines, and on a trip through Utladalen on a hot summer day you will see a lushness worthy of far more southerly latitudes. [0-60] Hawthorn and mountain strawberry growing along the banks of Gjende also contribute to a rich and interesting mountain landscape, where the gnarled mountain birch stretches its bright green crowns towards the horizon higher up than anywhere else in Norway, to almost 4000 feet! [0-61] A number of flowering plants also reach their altitude highs along Gjende, providing a unique mix of a heat-loving lowland flora and a pure alpine one. [0-62] Here you may find the lesser butterfly orchid and the fragrant orchid right next to true alpine plants such as purple saxifrage and creeping azalea. [0-63] The latter two you will also find on barren, rocky surfaces. [0-64] But the altitude record is held by the glacier crowfoot, which will nod at you above 7700 feet. [0-65] The diverse vegetation allows for variation in fauna. [0-66] The reindeer is emblematic, and it was probably a large herd of them that attracted our first fur-clad ancestors into Jotunheimen. [0-67] For many generations reindeer hunting remained very important, as is testified to by the traces of pitfalls and drive lanes. [0-68] The reindeer pits were in use at least until 1624, when they were prohibited by Christian IV; but in some parts they may have been used as late as the 1800s. [0-69] With the introduction of modern weapons and domesticated reindeer, the herd of wild reindeer was much reduced. [0-70] Reindeer keeping created a lot of bad blood between hunters and farmers. [0-71] Many domesticated reindeer were shot by people who paid little attention to the earmarks, and others disappeared into the wild herds. [0-72] Today there are a few thousand domesticated reindeer in the eastern part of Jotunheimen, while the wild ones keep to the west, where this stately animal is still hunted. [0-73] In the valleys at the outskirts of Jotunheimen there are permanent herds of moose, for instance in Utladalen, Veodalen, Sjodalen, and along Gjende. [0-74] Deer have so far only been spotted in Utladalen. [0-75] These days large beasts of prey are few and far between, but in former times Jotunheimen provided a sanctuary for them. [0-76] Utladalen was thus famous for its bears. [0-77] Bear-hunting was in fact the most important source of income for the residents at the mountain farm Vormeli. [0-78] In recent years there have been only sporadic reports of bear, wolverine, and lynx tracks in the region. [0-79] But smaller beasts of prey, such as mink, weasels, and the red fox, are common, while the arctic fox has almost vanished also from this area. [0-80] Among the rodents there are hare, vole, and lemming, but their population fluctuates greatly. [0-81] The bird life is typical of an area of this kind. [0-82] The rough-legged hawk is the most common predator, but an occasional eagle may be seen, especially in the west, as may several falcons. [0-83] Of the songbirds those most frequently seen are willow warbler, redpoll, snow bunting, meadow pipit, and brambling. [0-84] There are also ducks, especially teal and common goldeneye, and on occasion an arctic loon. [0-85] As in other mountain regions, Jotunheimen has an increasing number of gulls. [0-86] In the winter there are many ravens. [0-87] Of fish there is only trout, and the population varies considerably.