[1-19 |] Access [1-20] Road, bus service. [1-21] Marked trails to Bessheim, Glitterheim, Memurubu, Haugseter, and Sikkilsdalsseter. [1-22]
[1-23 |] Facts [1-24] Gjendesheim opened in 1878. [1-25 |] Owner: DNT OA. [1-26 |] Managers: Bjørg Aaseng and Olav Gaute Vole. [1-27] Located in Vågå, Oppland, at 3260 feet, 185 beds. [1-28 |] Tel. 61 23 89 10. [1-29 |] E-mail: gjheim@online.no [1-30 |] URL: www.dntoa.no [1-31]
[1-32 |] Bessheim [1-33 |] An Old Summer Farm [1-34] The first hikers who came to Sjodalen, around the mid-1800s, came from Sikkilsdalen. [1-35] They walked through the gap down towards Øvre Sjodalsvatn. [1-36] On the west bank there were three summer farms close to one another. [1-37] The one that became the Bessheim hut has since about 1865 belonged to the Storvik farm in Vågå and has remained in the same family the entire time. [1-38] From the early days of hiking the area around Gjende was among Norway's most popular hiking regions, so it is hardly accidental that DNT's first marked trail, from 1874, ran from Bessheim over Veslefjell and Besseggen to Memurubu. [1-39] And it was Jens Tronhus on the neighboring farm who did the job. [1-40] From 1948 to 1998 Kari and Knut Lund ran Bessheim. [1-41] They were perfect for the job, tackling each new challenge as it came along, getting electricity and a better road, continually expanding and modernizing the hut. [1-42] The hut was and remains popular, with its good access to trails. [1-43] Here you can go walking no matter what the weather is like. [1-44] If the mountains are windy, you can hike down in Sjodalen, and in nice weather a number of the Jotunheimen high peaks are reachable on day hikes from Bessheim. [1-45] Both Besshø and Nautgardstind are natural destinations from Bessheim, and beyond Sjodalen Heimdalshø beckons. [1-46] For a shorter hike Besstrondrundhø is an excellent alternative. [1-47] Its elevation is below 4700 feet, but it gives a panoramic view towards Galdhøpiggen and Rondane. [1-48] Not far from Bessheim you also find Vågå's enchanting cultural path, Huldrestien. [1-49] If you prefer fishing, there are possibilities in both Øvre Sjodalsvatn and Bessvatn. [1-50]
[1-51 |] Access [1-52] Road, bus service. [1-53] Marked trails to Gjendesheim, Memurubu, and Glitterheim. [1-54]
[1-55 |] Facts [1-56] Bessheim has been open to travelers since the mid-1800s. [1-57] Located in Vågå, Oppland, at 3150 feet, 150 beds. [1-58 |] Owners: Kari and Knut Lund. [1-59 |] Managers: Magni and Bernt Jo Vole. [1-60 |] Tel. 61 23 89 13. [1-61 |] E-mail: post@ bessheim.no [1-62]
[1-63 |] Glitterheim [1-64 |] The Celebrant [1-65] In 2001 Glitterheim celebrates its centennial, although it is actually much older. [1-66] Back at the time of the migrations hunters sought shelter under some rocks located below today's hut. [1-67] With a measure of good will the rock shelter accommodates four. [1-68] Its sooty ceiling testifies to an extensive use of the shelter through the ages. [1-69] Judging by the many reindeer pitfalls found in and around Veodalen, this area was an important pantry. [1-70] In the 1800s some hunters decided to make a more suitable shelter, and around 1880 they had a stone hunter's cabin ready. [1-71] It soon lost its original function, however, for DNT bought it in 1898 for use as a hiker's hut, or, more accurately, as housing for those building the hut. [1-72] There were no overnight accommodations between Sjodalen and Visdalen, so a hut at the foot of Glittertind was welcome. [1-73] The transportation of materials and equipment from the village all along Veodalen, as well as the construction of the hut, took its time. [1-74] Only in 1901 was the hut ready for visitors. [1-75] Ever since 1910 the Vole family has been in charge of the hut, and from 1973 Ole and Solveig Vole have run the place. [1-76] Thanks to them the hut is known as a great place to stay. [1-77] The hut itself has changed considerably through the years, but the goal of the hikers in Veodalen has not changed much: hiking to the peaks and glaciers, with Glittertind being the prime destination. [1-78] And should you decide to skip that, there are lots of other fine hikes in the vicinity of Glitterheim. [1-79] Naustgardtind and Stornubben on the east side of the valley make a loop that spry folks can do in a day. [1-80] Lesser in elevation but perhaps greater in views is the trip to Styggehø and Hestlegerhø. [1-81] If you are experienced in glacier-walking or team up with the hut's guide, the glaciers beckon to the west, with their multitude of Veo and Memuru peaks. [1-82]
[1-83 |] Access [1-84] There is a road to the hut, but inside the national park boundary it is closed to ordinary traffic. [1-85] Marked trails to Gjendesheim, Bessheim, Memurubu, and Spiterstulen. [1-86]
[1-87 |] Facts [1-88] Glitterheim opened in 1901. [1-89 |] Owner: DNT OA. [1-90 |] Managers: Solveig and Ole Vole. [1-91 |] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 4420 feet, 137 beds, 8 in the self-service hut. [1-92 |] Tel. 61 23 18 33. [1-93 |] E-mail: glheim@online.no [1-94 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "hytter" [1-95]
[1-96 |] Memurubu [1-97 |] Midway at Gjende [1-98] The name Memurubu means roughly "the hut by the river that digs in the middle," which is a fairly precise description of the setting halfway along the lake. [1-99] Anyone approaching the hut from above can see how much gravel and sand the river has carried out into Gjende through the years. [1-100] If left to continue its work for a few thousand years more, it will probably cut the lake in two. [1-101] The combination of the river's efforts and the benevolent climate has made the outer part of Memurudalen remarkably inviting, green and fertile. [1-102] The first stone cabin, built here in the 1700s, was taken over by DNT in 1870. [1-103] It was three Englishmen who put Memurubu on the map. [1-104] In their humorous tale Three in Norway by Two of Them they have a picturesque account of their experience as tourists by Gjende in 1880. [1-105] They lived at Memurubu for several weeks of hunting and fishing. [1-106] Traces of their stay can be seen in the ground below the hikers' hut, including their stone stove. [1-107] As the influx of travelers increased and DNT opened larger huts at both ends of Gjende, the one-room stone hut with a fireplace and two single beds no longer sufficed. [1-108] The relief was therefore great when Ole Sveine from Lom agreed to build and operate a hikers' hut here. [1-109] In 1884 his way-station for travelers stood on the green hillside above the delta by Gjende. [1-110] However, as with the other huts along this special mountain lake, this structure also proved too small, so it has been expanded several times, most recently in 1993, when a new main building was ready. [1-111] The hut may have been changed, but you are still greeted by the same family that has been running it since 1870. [1-112] Of course most visitors are here to hike the knife-edged Besseggen or the precipitous Bukkelægeret, but Memurubu is also the trailhead for many other hikes to nearby glaciers, peaks, and valleys. [1-113]
[1-114 |] Gjendebu [1-115 |] DNT's Oldest Hut [1-116] We do not know when the first Norwegians found their way to the western end of Gjende, but it has been determined that the first summer farms came in the early 1700s. [1-117] People came all the way from Bøverdalen, which made for quite a strenuous trek, but summering was important to the farmers, as it provided excellent pasturage. [1-118] Thus, by the time the first tourists arrived in this part of Jotunheimen, some time in the 1800s, shelter was available in primitive farm huts. [1-119] Hikers at the time naturally had some experience with "basic Norwegian mountain lodging," but even so, Gjendesæteren was often found too basic, prompting some to describe it as "a pile of rocks." [1-120] Despite this, interest in the area was so great that the fledgling DNT at their second assembly meeting decided to arrange for better accommodations for hikers here. [1-121] In the east Bessheim offered excellent lodging, so in 1869 DNT voted to build a hut at the western lake end. [1-122] This was DNT's third hut project. [1-123] The other two have either been closed or sold, while Gjendebu is still very much alive. [1-124] The new Gjendebu was ready in the fall of 1871, but it was soon cramped, moving DNT to buy a stone structure from Erik Hansen Slaalien for ten dollars. [1-125] He was also made hut manager, and when his daughter was born in this stone hut, she was given the name Gjendine. [1-126] More than 130 years later what began as a "pile of rocks" shows great improvement. [1-127] Following repeated rebuilding the fine old structures make a harmonious group of huts loved by visitors. [1-128] The surrounding scenery is both awesome and inviting. [1-129] It has led a number of artists to try their hand at depicting the landscape in words, music, or pictures. [1-130] Few of them have succeeded as well as Edvard Grieg, who made several visits to Gjendebu in the late 1800s, undoubtedly providing an important source of inspiration for his Peer Gynt music. [1-131]
[1-132 |] Access [1-133] Boat service on Gjende all summer. [1-134] Marked trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, and Torfinnsbu. [1-135]
[1-136 |] Facts [1-137] Gjendebu opened in 1871. [1-138 |] Owner: DNT OA. [1-139 |] Managers: Aase and Håkon Dalen. [1-140] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 3250 feet, 119 beds, including 34 in the self-service hut. [1-141 |] Tel. 61 23 89 44. [1-142 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [1-143]
[1-144 |] Sikkilsdalsseter [1-145 |] A Joy to Man and Horse Alike [1-146] The south wall of Sikkilsdalshornet is both steep and exposed, but it towers over a valley that is exceptionally lush and green. [1-147] In addition to its lushness the valley had an early reputation for good trout fishing and hunting. [1-148] Thus it was used for summer pasturage, and later a summer farm. [1-149] For a long time it was the Huseby farm in Stange, Hedmarken, that had its summer farm here, which must have meant a very strenuous trip, driving the herd along the country roads for days all the way to Sikkilsdalen, at more than 3200 feet. [1-150] Local history sources report that in 1803 there were two farms at Kvikne, midway between Skåbu and Vinstra, that used the summer farm, so local valley folks no longer had to see people from Hedmark using "their" valley. [1-151] In 1868 the state began leasing the valley for horse pasture, and, soon after, the Englishman Charles Bamford bought it for fishing and hunting. [1-152] For years he had hunted in Jotunheimen, also with the legendary reindeer hunter Jo Gjende. [1-153] Through him Bamford met Syver Sande, usually called Sjur, a well-known hunter and mountain man. [1-154] Sjur Sande was hired to be Bamford's man in Sikkilsdalen and live there year round. [1-155] Together with his wife and two children he moved from Vågå, and he and his descendants stayed in Sikkilsdalen for nearly a century. [1-156] Even today Sande family members run Sikkilsdalsseter. [1-157] Hunting territory and horse pastures turned out to be a poor combination. [1-158] Already in 1874 Bamford sold Sikkilsdalen, and in 1881 the state bought it for horse breeding. [1-159] Sjur Sande and his family were part of the package. [1-160] The pasturage in Sikkilsdalen is exceptionally good for the horses. [1-161] The soil is fertile, the valley is sheltered, and the sunlight abundant. [1-162] The result is juicy grass, full of nutrition, so there are still horse herds moving through Sikkilsdalen in the summer. [1-163] It is a special treat to see them released onto pasture at summer solstice. [1-164] Tourists also soon learnt to appreciate Sikkilsdalen, and when his family's house became too small in 1870, Sjur built another one, with a guest room. [1-165] Gradually tourism became the most important activity, leading to the construction of today's stately hut. [1-166]
[1-167 |] Access [1-168] Road from Skåbu, and marked trails from Oskampen and Gjendesheim. [1-169]
[1-170 |] Facts [1-171] Sikkilsdalsseter has welcomed visitors since 1868. [1-172] Located in Nord Fron, Oppland, at 3330 feet, 78 beds. [1-173 |] Owner: The Department of Agriculture. [1-174 |] Manager: Tordis Sande Varpestuen. [1-175 |] Tel. 61 29 55 14. [1-176 |] URL: www.skabu.com [1-177]
[1-178 |] Besstrond Sæter [1-179 |] An Old Summer Farm in Sjodalen [1-180]
[1-181 |] Access [1-182] Road, bus service. [1-183]
[1-184 |] Facts [1-185] Besstrond Sæter has welcomed tourists since 1976. [1-186 |] Owner: Magny Hilde og Bjørn Bjørgen. [1-187 |] Manager: Turid Berge. [1-188] The hut is located in Vågå, Oppland, at 3280 feet, and has 48 beds. [1-189 |] Tel. 61 23 89 23. [1-190]
[1-191 |] Spiterstulen [1-192] The hut is fully presented in Booklet 4 [1-193]
[1-194 |] Access [1-195] Road, bus service. [1-196] Marked trails to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu, and Gjendebu. [1-197]
[1-198 |] Facts [1-199] Spiterstulen has been open to visitors since the 1830s. [1-200 |] Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim. [1-201] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 3600 feet, some 230 beds. [1-202 |] Tel. 61 21 14 80. [1-203 |] URL: www.spiterstulen.no [1-204]
[1-205 |] Juvasshytta [1-206 |] The hut is fully presented in Booklet 4 [1-207]
[1-208 |] Access [1-209] Road, bus service. [1-210] Marked trails to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Røisheim, and Elveseter. [1-211]
[1-212 |] Facts [1-213] Juvasshytta has housed hikers since 1884. [1-214 |] Owner: Ragnhild Vole. [1-215] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 6030 feet, some 85 beds. [1-216 |] Tel. 61 21 15 50. [1-217 |] URL: http://ditt.net/juvasshytta [1-218]
[1-219 |] Hindsæter fjellstue [1-220 |] Seventeenth-Century Summer Farm [1-221]
[1-222 |] Access [1-223] Road, bus service. [1-224]
[1-225 |] Facts [1-226] The Hindsæter Hut has welcomed tourists since the 1860s. [1-227 |] Owner: Rolf Strøm. [1-228] Located in Vågå, Oppland, at 3020 feet, beds. [1-229 |] Tel. 61 23 89 16. [1-230 |] Maurvangen [1-231 |] Camping and Cabins [1-232]
[1-233 |] Access [1-234] Road, bus service. [1-235] Marked trails to Gjendesheim and Sikkilsdalsseter. [1-236]
[1-237 |] Facts [1-238] Maurvangen Camping has been in operation since 1976. [1-239 |] Owner: Else Reiremo. [1-240] The campground is in Vågå, Oppland, at 3280 feet, 26 cabins. [1-241 |] Tel. 61 23 89 22. [1-242]
[1-243 |] A Classic Hike Along Gjende [1-244 |] Trip 1a - 2 days - gg [1-245 |] 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim - Memurubu [1-246] Have you ever seen the Gjendineggen knife-edge? [1-247] Before 1867 very few had. [1-248] But that was the year when Ibsen's masterpiece Peer Gynt appeared, and the play made the Gjende area and Besseggen widely famous. [1-249] So when DNT marked its first trail in the early 1870s, it was natural that it go from Bessheim to Memurubu over Veslefjellet down Besseggen. [1-250] Nowadays some 30,000 make their way over Besseggen in an average summer. [1-251] The hike is considered a relatively easy day hike. [1-252] The knife-edge, which is some sixty feet wide, is only about a half mile long. [1-253] It is somewhat exposed, but not dangerous. [1-254] In fact cross-country races were held here in the 1960s, from Memurubu to Gjendesheim along the edge, but this was stopped after a couple of years. [1-255] If you suffer from vertigo, you may prefer starting at Memurubu, although the hike is more spectacular coming from Gjendesheim or Bessheim. [1-256] My description runs from Gjendesheim, the most popular starting point: [1-257] The ascent from the hut to the top of Veslefjellet is 2460 feet, but the trail is wide and good, on a fairly even slope. [1-258] The valleys around Gjende are very lush, providing much of interest to plant-lovers. [1-259] The birch reaches to almost four thousand feet, higher than anywhere else in Norway. [1-260] In about a half mile the trail to Glitterheim branches right, but we continue up Veslløyfti and Veslefjellet. [1-261] Over time the tracks of tens of thousands of hikers have worn a wide, gray band across Veslefjellet, but straying slightly off the trail, you will see that there are still plants at 5500 feet, for the creeping azalea and glacier crowfoot are much less demanding than their kinsmen down below. [1-262] On the summit the trail from Bessheim comes in from the right. [1-263] That hike takes an hour longer and is marked via the outlet of Bessvatn, where there is a bridge. [1-264] The panorama from Veslefjellet is impressive. [1-265] From here you can spot many of the Jotunheimen high peaks and large parts of Valdresflya and Gausdal Vestfjell. [1-266] The view from the top of Besseggen is also magnificent, with the blue Bessvatn and the green Gjende far below. [1-267] As you start your descent, however, you had better watch your steps. [1-268] There are a couple of spots that can feel rather exposed. [1-269] The drop down to Bessvatn is 1300 feet. [1-270] Once down there, you walk along a rather narrow ridge that separates that lake from the dropoff towards Gjende. [1-271] Had the glacier that created Bessvatn had time to scour the mountain any longer, this would now make an impressive waterfall into Gjende, but instead the water flows eastward. [1-272] From the shores of Bessvatn the trail once again ascends about 650 feet before you begin a new descent, first past Bjørnbøltjørna, then gradually towards Memurubu. [1-273] Here you may either spend the night or take the boat back to Gjendesheim or onward towards Gjendebu, or you may wander back to Gjendesheim along the shore. [1-274] This surprisingly varied trail rambles through a lush landscape along an old tote road. [1-275 |] 2. Memurubu - Gjendebu [1-276] This hike is also a classic. [1-277] Bukkelægeret is one of Jotunheimen's steepest marked trails, but there are supports, so with caution you will be perfectly safe. [1-278] Leaving Memurubu, you cross Muru on a sturdy bridge. [1-279] The trail climbs steeply up towards Sjugurdtind and less steeply towards Lågtunga. [1-280] Along the way it bypasses first Sjugurtindtjørna and then Grunnevatnet. [1-281] On a hot summer day these lakes are welcome. [1-282] The lofty path continues, offering splendid views, especially of Surtningssua to the north and of the peaks south of Gjende. [1-283] Three miles farther on the trail forks by a large cairn. [1-284] The right fork continues to the west and down into Storådalen, where it joins the trail between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. [1-285] That route from Memurubu to Gjendebu takes about 6 hours, and may be an alternative for those who find Bukkelægeret too steep. [1-286] However, we follow the left fork down Bukkelægeret. [1-287] The trail winds down steep switchbacks, with cable supports in the most exposed parts. [1-288] As with Besseggen, it may be a good idea to reverse the route if you dislike heights. [1-289] The valley is precipitous but may still have an outstanding floral display. [1-290] The area is said to have some seven hundred different plants. [1-291] They range from glacier crowfoot, spring anemone, pyramidal saxifrage, to roses, hawthorn, and lily of the valley. [1-292] Safely past Bukkelægeret the trail becomes nice and easy along the lake shore to Gjendebu. [1-293]
[1-294 |] Day Trip from Memurubu [1-295] A hike to Surtningssua is a must when staying at Memurubu. [1-296] Its 7767 feet make it Norway's seventh highest mountain. [1-297] It was first climbed around 1840 by Johan Sverdrup, the later Storting President. [1-298] Emanuel Mohr, a Jotunheimen enthusiast, made it to the top forty years later and declared the view to be the most magnificent in all of Jotunheimen. [1-299] Such ratings may be debatable, but the panorama is certainly grand. [1-300] Two marked trails lead to the summit, on either you should calculate 8 hours round trip. [1-301]
[1-302 |] MS Gjende [1-303] Since 1906 there has been a boat service along Gjende. [1-304] Today the number of passengers on busy summer days calls for the use of two ferries to carry everyone wishing to travel between Gjendesheim, Memurubu, and Gjendebu. [1-305] This is the larger of the boats on a beautiful summer day. [1-306] Conditions are not always like this - Gjende is known to be treacherous, with strong, gusty winds and swift weather changes. [1-307]
[1-308 |] Distances [1-309 |] Gjendesheim - Memurubu, 6 h. [1-310 |] Bessheim - Memurubu, 7 h. [1-311 |] Memurubu - Gjendesheim (along Gjende), 3.5 h. [1-312 |] Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Bukkelægeret), 5 h. [1-313 |] Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Storådalen), 6 h. [1-314]
[1-315 |] Lodging [1-316 |] Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Maurvangen, Memurubu, Gjendebu. [1-317]
[1-318 |] Transportation [1-319] Bus service to Gjendesheim and Bessheim. [1-320] Boat service on Gjende stopping at Gjendebu, Memurubu, and Gjendesheim. [1-321]
[1-322 |] Day Trips from Gjendesheim [1-323 |] Trip 1b - Options Galore - g - ggg [1-324] There are several tempting day hikes around Gjendesheim. [1-325] North of Gjende both Veslefjellet and Besshø tempt those looking for a panorama. [1-326] The hike up Veslefjellet is short and easy and can readily be combined with a side trip to Bessvatn. [1-327] The trip to Besshø is considerably longer but not particularly difficult. [1-328] The normal route is uphill from the outlet of Bessvatn, across Bukkehø, and along the ridge south of the glacier to the summit. [1-329] To the south of Gjende there are also many options. [1-330] Both Høgebrotet and Tjørnholstind are close enough to make the summits in a day. [1-331] If you are not committed to peak-bagging, it may be an idea to walk around Knutshø. [1-332] Ask the staff at Gjendesheim to ferry you across Sjoa. [1-333] Follow the trail westward along the shore of Gjende. [1-334] It is unmarked, but you cannot miss it. [1-335] On the tiny shoulder between upper Leirungen and Gjende there is a restored stone hut originally built by the Englishman Theodore Rathbone in the mid-1800s. [1-336] He was a good friend of the legendary Jo Gjende's. [1-337] From the hut you can either continue along upper Leirungen or make the hike along the splendid edge of Knutshø. [1-338] It has been suggested that this was the edge Peer Gynt went over on his reindeer, and not Besseggen. [1-339] Be that as it may, but Knutshø is well worth a day trip from Gjendesheim, being an "exposed" but perfectly safe hike. [1-340] You can walk back to Gjendesheim by way of the east side of the lower Leirungen and Gjendeshø, completing the hike along the marked trail from Haugseter (see Booklet 2). [1-341]
[1-342 |] Fishing [1-343] An interest in fishing is another good reason to visit the area. [1-344] The row of old fishing shelters close to Gjendesheim indicate that especially Sjoa and the outlet at Gjende are good trout spots. [1-345] Another indication is the Gjende fly, which may swarm in quantities over the water on hot late summer days. [1-346] Before being hatched, the larvae sit on rocks at the bottom of the river, providing food for the fish. [1-347] Gjende also has a lot of crayfish that the trout feed on. [1-348] Fishing licenses can be bought at the hikers' huts. [1-349]
[1-350 |] The Great Loop [1-351 |] Trip 1c - 4-6 days - gg - ggg [1-352 |] 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim - Glitterheim [1-353] Besseggen is not the only classic hike in Jotunheimen. [1-354] Using Gjendesheim as a base, you can also make a week-long circuit that takes you through much of the grandest Jotunheimen can offer, with many potential side trips, a couple of them including the country's two highest peaks. [1-355] The main route runs by way of Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu, and Memurubu, but there are possible shortcuts along the way if you find some of the legs suggested a bit too long. [1-356] The route also has the advantage that you may start and finish in any one of the huts, except Glitterheim, and travel on by boat, bus, or car. [1-357] My suggestion is, however, that you start at Gjendesheim. [1-358] The first half mile up to Gjendehalsen you join those doing Besseggen, but at the first junction you turn right. [1-359] The trail is nice and wide, having been trodden by many wanderers before you. [1-360] The first of them may have walked here a very long time ago. [1-361] Nature certainly cooperated, for we know that the timberline 8000 years ago was considerably higher than today. [1-362] Old pines have been found in bogs as high as 4000 feet, so who knows how high the hunters may have ventured. [1-363] The trail swings by the blue Bessvatn, which curves toward the foot of Besshø, a peak that makes a nice destination if you are staying at Bessheim or Gjendesheim. [1-364] The trail to Glitterheim crosses the outlet on a bridge, and is soon also joined by the trail from Bessheim. [1-365] If you approach the edge, you can look down on Bessheim and have a good view of Sjodalen. [1-366] The marked trail descends gently towards Russvatnet. [1-367] This is also a long, narrow lake that curves into the mountains. [1-368] Your view of the lake is better from the other side, however, after you have crossed the eastern outlet on a bridge, where there is also a tote road along the river down into Sjodalen. [1-369] The marked trail goes along the shore of Russvatnet for a mile and a half before ascending along Tjørnholåa. [1-370] You cross several streams along the bank, which may be welcome if you need a break. [1-371] Tjørnholåa is crossed on a bridge over a ravine, an airy crossing, but safe enough (I personally took part in the building! ). [1-372] On the other side the trail forks, but either trail will take you to Glitterheim, in about the same time. [1-373] The right fork takes you through the enchanting and magnificent Tjørnholet and is considered a bit more demanding. [1-374] It is quite rocky, at times making it hard to see the cairns, but you still cannot lose your way. [1-375] At the top of the hollow there is usually a snowdrift, so watch your step if it is hard and slippery. [1-376] From the top of the gap a side trail leads to eastern Hestlægerhø. [1-377] The marked trail continues down into Veodalen, crossing Veo on a sturdy bridge. [1-378] The left fork from the Tjønholåa bridge is the most popular. [1-379] It climbs gently, first westward, then to the north to the gap between the western and the eastern Hestlægerhø. [1-380] From there it flattens out along Hestbekken until it joins the trail from Tjørnholet by the bridge across Veo. [1-381]
[1-382 |] 2. Glitterheim - Spiterstulen [1-383] There is a road all the way to Glitterheim, but inside the national park boundary it is closed to ordinary traffic, so visitors are walkers. [1-384] This colors the conversation by the fireplace at night. [1-385] It usually revolves around the next day's hike. [1-386] For many hikers this means Glittertind. [1-387] Norway's second highest peak makes a great target, and its ascent can be combined with the onward trip to Spiterstulen. [1-388] In good weather this is recommended. [1-389] In bad weather the route to Spiterstulen across Skautflya is better (see below). [1-390] The hike over Glittertind can be done with time to spare by persons in reasonably good shape. [1-391] The trail is mostly well marked, with cairns to the glacier. [1-392] You climb towards Nedre Steinbuvatnet and follow along the ridge to the glacier's edge. [1-393] The glacier cap has no crevasses but may be slippery, especially in late summer, so it pays to bring crampons. [1-394] Follow the glacier ridge westward and stay away from the dropoff down the precipitous north wall. [1-395] The panorama gains grandeur as you approach the summit. [1-396] It used to be possible to seek shelter in a hut at the top to enjoy the view. [1-397] Unfortunately wind and snow wrecked the hut, so your summit time is now dependent on the weather. [1-398] On a still, clear day it is a great place to spend a few hours, with time enough to identify peaks and glaciers all along the horizon. [1-399] However, if you are headed for Spiterstulen, you had better move on. [1-400] Although the toughest part of your hike is done, you have a long way to go. [1-401] The summit trail is not marked, so consult your map. [1-402] First you cross two lesser summits, then drop gently down to the glacier to the west. [1-403] The trail is marked onwards from the southern edge of the glacier, first steeply down to Skautflya, where you either cross on dry rocks or wade Steindalselva and Skauta, depending on the water level. [1-404] The trail continues to a junction with the trail over Skautflya, then across Skautkampen, down into Visdalen, and along the road to Spiterstulen. [1-405] As already mentioned, the trip over Skautflya is an alternative to climbing Glittertind. [1-406] The trail starts on a log bridge across Steinbuelva, heads towards Skautflya through Vesleglupen, and before Skautkampen it joins the trail from Glittertind. [1-407]
[1-408 |] 3. Spiterstulen - Gjendebu [1-409] The next leg goes all the way to Gjendebu. [1-410] This makes it a long one, which can be broken in two by going via Leirvassbu (for details, see Booklet 4 in this series). [1-411] But getting to Gjendebu via Uradalen is no problem if you are in reasonably good shape and have a full day at your disposal. [1-412] Leaving Spiterstulen the trail takes you through the wide, green Visdalen. [1-413] After a good half mile you will see the remains of the first Spiterstulen hut, below Styggehø, across the river. [1-414] A bridge takes you across Hellstuguåa, and a mile later the trails to Leirvassbu and to Gjendebu diverge. [1-415] The latter proceeds through the narrow Uradalen, whose name ("Scree Valley") reflects its rocky content. [1-416] You are best off with sturdy boots and an eye on the trail. [1-417] Remember to look up, though. [1-418] The valley is flanked by twelve grand peaks above 6500 feet. [1-419] The tallest is Hellstugutind at 7690. The trail reaches a high point in the valley at Uradalsbandet, at nearly 5500 feet, but from here it is mostly downhill. [1-420] A bit to the north of Hellertjørna you enter the trail from Leirvassbu. [1-421] Semelåa is waded if the rocks are submerged. [1-422] If the water is high, wading may be tricky, forcing you upstream to cross. [1-423] Soon the trail also passes the scenic Hellerfossen and gets to where the marked trail to Memurubu comes up from Storådalen. [1-424] The last couple of miles to Gjendebu go through ever richer vegetation, and especially in early summer the floral display is magnificent. [1-425]
[1-426 |] 4. Gjendebu - Memurubu [1-427] See description of Trip 1a. [1-428] You can also go by boat. [1-429]
[1-430 |] 5. Memurubu - Gjendesheim [1-431] See description of Trip 1a. [1-432] You can also go by boat. [1-433]
[1-434 |] Nautgardstind [1-435] If both you and the weather are up to it, you may add the splendid Nautgardstind between Gjendesheim and Glitterheim. [1-436] Go from the bridge across Tjørnholåa straight to the top. [1-437] Nautgardstind's 7400 feet give you a great panorama all around. [1-438] From the summit you continue along the ridge to the northwest, along Nautgardsoksla to the Glitterheim trail. [1-439]
[1-440 |] Glittertind [1-441] Glittertind's 8085 feet represents the preferred hike from Glitterheim. [1-442] The famed hunter Jo Gjende thought for years that he had been first on top, since he had pursued a reindeer all the way to the top in 1842. [1-443] But once again it turned out that a city slicker had bagged this one first, too. [1-444] The cousin of the author Henrik Wergeland, the surveyor Harald Nicolai Storm Wergeland, climbed Norway's second highest peak a year earlier, in the company of Hans Sletten from Lom. [1-445] "Second highest" is debatable, however. [1-446] Since the ice cap was considerably thicker back then, it is rather likely that the summit was higher than Galdhøpiggen, even if the latter also had a glacier at the time. [1-447]
[1-448 |] Hellstugubreen [1-449] A nice alternative to doing the stretch between Spiterstulen and Gjendebu is to walk the traditional glacier route over Hellstugubreen. [1-450] The trip demands experience in glacier-walking and calls for special equipment. [1-451] It also takes longer than the valley route. [1-452] Leaving Gjendebu the trail follows Storådalen to Hellerfossen, then the east side of Semmelåa, in through Semelholet and up in the saddle between Hinnotefjellet and Søre Hellstugutinden. [1-453] From there it is glacier-walking north across the western Memurubre and out along Hellstugubreen to Visdalen and Spiterstulen. [1-454]
[1-455 |] Distances [1-456 |] Gjendesheim/Bessheim - Glitterheim, 7 h. [1-457 |] Glitterheim - Spiterstulen, 5 or 7 h. [1-458 |] Spiterstulen - Gjendebu, 8 h. [1-459 |] Gjendebu - Memurubu, 5 or 6 h. See p. 19 [1-460 |] Memurubu - Gjendesheim, 3.5 or 6 h. See p. 19 [1-461]
[1-462 |] Lodging [1-463 |] Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu, Memurubu. [1-464]
[1-465 |] Transportation. [1-466] Bus to Gjendesheim, Bessheim, and Spiterstulen. [1-467] Boat on Gjende, stopping at Gjendebu, Memurubu, and Gjendesheim. [1-468]
[1-469 |] The Shorter Loop [1-470 |] Trip 1d - 2-3 days - gg [1-471] This popular loop trip in Jotunheimen runs from Gjendesheim or Bessheim to Glitterheim and back via Memurubu. [1-472] Just like the great loop you may go in either direction, and there are optional side trips along the way. [1-473]
[1-474 |] 1. Bessheim/Gjendesheim - Glitterheim [1-475] See description of Trip 1c. [1-476]
[1-477 |] 2. Glitterheim - Memurubu [1-478] The start of the hike follows the trail to Gjendesheim through the saddle between eastern and western Hestlægerhø. [1-479] It then descends to the splitoff to Gjendesheim and down to Russvatnet. [1-480] A bridge crosses Blåtjørnåa.