[3-4] Utladalen, between Årdal and Sognefjell - this green oasis in the mountainous wilderness of western Jotunheimen - attracted visitors long before our time. [3-5] Early hikers stayed on the summer farms up in the valley, with mixed success. [3-6] Emanuel Mohn, the famous Jotunheimen enthusiast, reported his joy at being greeted with cream porridge by friendly milkmaids at 4 a.m. in the summer of 1872, while Slingsby and his two companions were not nearly as pleased at having to share one bed on their way to their famous ascent of Store Skagastølstind in the summer of 1876. [3-7] An early proposal to the fledgling DNT was therefore to build a hut in this verdant valley. [3-8] It was not as easy to act on, however. [3-9] It took time to resolve the issue of how to transport the needed supplies to such a remote spot. [3-10] The hauling with horse and sled alone was to take three winters, and only in the summer of 1888 was the first hut complete, with 12 beds. [3-11] This turned out to be totally inadequate. [3-12] DNT had to rent a cabin in addition; and soon they had to build on, with transportation being equally cumbersome every time. [3-13] Indeed, the transportation to Skogadalsbøen through the years would make a long and interesting tale of its own. [3-14] Few, if any, of DNT's huts have required such a struggle to supply hikers with housing and food. [3-15] Only in recent decades have helicopters and crawler tractors replaced human and horse power. [3-16] On the topic of the hardships of transportation there is as great unanimity among the succession of managers as in the conviction that Skogadalsbøen was an experience they would hate to have missed. [3-17] The hut at the head of Utladalen is a gem to staff and hikers alike. [3-18] From its green and gorgeous setting it looks out on a multitude of striking peaks and pinnacles. [3-19] Whether you want to explore the valley itself or get onto snow and ice on the high peaks, you have a wide range of options. [3-20]
[3-21 |] Access [3-22] Marked trails to Turtagrø, Fannaråken, Sognefjellhytta, Krossbu, Leirvassbu, Olavsbu (two routes, through Raudalen or Skogadalen), Tyinholmen, Fondsbu, and Ingjerdbu/Morkabu. [3-23]
[3-24 |] Facts [3-25] Skogadalsbøen opened in 1888. [3-26 |] Owner: DNT. [3-27 |] Managers: Anne Serine Heggdal and Lars Åge Hilde. [3-28] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 2700 feet, 106 beds, including 24 in a separate self-service hut for use off-season. [3-29 |] Tel: 975 69 094. [3-30 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [3-31]
[3-32 |] Ingjerdbu, Morkabu, and Vetti [3-33 |] Inviting Places in Utladalen [3-34] It is hard not to become fascinated by the special scenery when walking through Vettismorki. [3-35] At this latitude and elevation (2300 feet) tall pines and thriving vegetation are not to be taken for granted, and Norway's highest free-falling waterfall is a treat (see box, Trip 3a). [3-36] It would be too bad to hurry through such a landscape. [3-37] You need not rush, for there are two small but excellent self-service huts at Vettismorki: Morkabu and Ingjerdbu, built by Vetti residents. [3-38] They have the standard DNT lock and provisions for sale. [3-39] These huts are nice, but the real pride of the valley is the Vetti farm down below in Utladalsjuvet. [3-40] It has been in the same family since 1775; but it is quite possible that it was settled before the Black Death. [3-41] The farm has more than 12,000 acres, including large areas on both sides of Utladalen, as well as the stately primeval forest at Vettismorki. [3-42] The year DNT was started, 1868, Vetti welcomed its first travelers; but only when Vetlestova was ready, in 1875, did the farm rate as an inn. [3-43] Vetti was long one of the major gateways to Jotunheimen, and a stopover at Vetti was obligatory when passing through Utladalen. [3-44] Before Turtagrø opened, at the end of the 1880s, this was the most convenient base for hiking Hurrungane; and several owners of Vetti also worked as mountain guides. [3-45] The Meteorological Institute has also frequently relied on Vetti residents - since 1900 they have recorded the weather. [3-46] Sadly, the inn was closed a few years ago, but at least there is a cafeteria during the summer, still allowing you to enter and feel the atmosphere of the old mountain farm. [3-47]
[3-48 |] Access [3-49] The road to Vetti is closed to cars. [3-50] Marked trails from Morkabu and Ingjerdbu to Vetti, Skogadalsbøen, Tyinholmen, and Slettningsbu. [3-51]
[3-52 |] Facts [3-53] Vetti Farm has no lodging; a cafeteria in the summer. [3-54] Morkabu opened in 1985, Ingjerdbu in 1995. [3-55] The huts are owned and run as self-service huts by Vetti Farm. [3-56] Located in Årdal, Sogn og Fjordane, at 2240 feet, 4 and 12 beds. [3-57 |] Tel: 57 66 30 24 (Vetti). [3-58 |] Avdalen and Gravdalen [3-59 |] Open, Peaceful, and Deserted [3-60] The farm Avdalen in Utladalen is only a couple of miles from Hjelle, but the path to it was so difficult that it was only passable in summer. [3-61] In winter snow and ice on the slopes normally made them too dangerous to negotiate, so the farm family had to be self-sufficient for months on end. [3-62] Local history is once again obscure, but Avdalen was mentioned in the 1600s, and it is thought that people from Luster first made a summer farm up here, a clue to the difficult access from the valley just below. [3-63] Rev. Ulrik Fredrik Bøyesen from Lærdal was shocked at the road to the farm when visiting Utladalen in 1818, publishing a lengthy report: [3-64] "The fields are so horrendously steep and close to the brink of the frightful abyss that no stranger ventures onto them." [3-65] The location of the farm probably makes as much of an impact on today's visitors, but access was vastly eased once the road came to the valley. [3-66] Add some 600 feet of vertical ascent on a good trail and you are there. [3-67] Along the way the trail passes Avdalen's abandoned cotter's farm Hagaberg. [3-68] People moved away in the 1950s, while Avdalen was still thriving. [3-69] That farm was also abandoned in 1959, but enterprising folks from Årdal have in recent years restored large parts of the structures, making it possible for summer visitors to get both food and lodging. [3-70] The farm is frequently visited by school classes and other groups looking for information on life in such a place. [3-71] Avdalen also has a self-service hut for use all year. [3-72] The trail leads on from the restored farm to the unstaffed Gravdalen hut. [3-73] It is an old Avdalen summer farm, which has been restored by the Årdal hiking club. [3-74] It is magnificently situated above timberline. [3-75] Up here the wide view of Utladalen and the mountains on the east side of the valley is, if possible, even more spectacular than down on the parent farm. [3-76] It is too bad that so few hikers know of this spot. [3-77]
[3-78 |] Access [3-79] Marked trails to Avdalen and Gravdalen from Hjelle, Vetti, and Stølsmaradalen. [3-80]
[3-81 |] Facts [3-82] Avdalen has been a hikers' hut since 1991. [3-83] The hut is rented by Årdal hiking club and run as a staffed hut part of the summer. [3-84] Located in Årdal, Sogn og Fjordane, at 1250 feet, 6 beds in the self-service part. [3-85] Gravdalen was opened in 1975. [3-86] The Årdal hiking club maintains the unstaffed hut. [3-87] Located in Årdal, Sogn og Fjordane, 2750 feet, 2 beds. [3-88]
[3-89 |] Skagastølsbu and Stølsmaradalen [3-90 |] Different and Challenging [3-91]
[3-92] Following the trail northward in Utladalen from Avdalen, you reach idyllic Stølsmaradalen, with its open view to Stølsnostind and pleasant summer farm setting. [3-93] The place used to be owned by the Vetti farm, but in 1787 it was sold by Jørgen A. Vetti to Tomas Hallvardson Midtun and Jon Melheim, in order to give them a summer farm. [3-94] It probably started as such then and was used until 1940. [3-95] In 1975 DNT rented two of the buildings and renovated them. [3-96] Few people visit the squat, brown farm structures in the course of a summer; but those who do can hardly find words in their efforts to praise the place when signing the guest book, even if the hut has no provisions. [3-97] Spend an extra day and visit the waterfall Stølsmaradalsfossen, from the top of which you can see the mighty water-streams of Fleskedalsfossen and Vettisfossen. [3-98] Stølsmaradalen is also a nice starting point for trips into Hurrungane, even if the hut cannot match its northern neighbor Skagastølsbu. [3-99] The trail there is not marked, but map and compass will get you there. [3-100] Skagastølsbu is hardly idyllic, being in a very exposed position up on the ridge between Midtmaradalen and Skagastølsdalen. [3-101] It was placed here, in 1890, in order to be safe from avalanches and to provide a good base for climbers in the area. [3-102] The hut's exposed position has pleased generations of hikers and climbers, while worrying its owners. [3-103] Already during the first winter it blew down, making it quite clear that its 5770 foot elevation called for sturdier building materials than wood. [3-104] A new hut, this one of stone, was completed in 1894. [3-105] It is still standing, but it stays so damp that it has had to be totally renovated several times. [3-106] Climbers have appreciated Skagastølsbu, since its location makes it ideal for trips to both Skagastølstindane and Dyrehaugsryggen. [3-107] It is also obligatory for more experienced hikers to have made a trip to "the hut on the ridge." [3-108] The trip from Turtagrø up Skagastølsdalen, across the glacier, and onto the ridge is grand but requires glacier skills. [3-109]
[3-110 |] Access [3-111] No marked trails to Skagastølsbu. [3-112] Stølsmaradalen has marked trails to Avdalen and Vetti. [3-113]
[3-114 |] Facts [3-115] Skagastølsbu was first built in 1890, a stone hut in 1894. [3-116 |] Owner: DNT. [3-117 |] Unstaffed. [3-118] Located in Årdal, Sogn og Fjordane, at 5770 feet, 6 beds. [3-119]
[3-120] Stølsmaradalen opened in 1975. [3-121] DNT leases two cabins, running them as unstaffed huts. [3-122] Located in Årdal, Sogn og Fjordane, at 2780 feet, 4 beds. [3-123]
[3-124 |] Leirvassbu [3-125 |] From Stone Shelter to Mountain Lodge [3-126]
[3-127] Emanuel Mohn, the Norwegian mountaineering pioneer, was also active in the development of Leirvassbu. [3-128] In DNT's 1873 yearbook he recommended that the club put up a simple stone shelter at the junction of Visdalen, Leirdalen, and Gravdalen. [3-129] It took only two years to realize the plans, so building permits and other formalities did not take the amount of time they do these days, either in DNT or elsewhere. [3-130] A stone shelter by Leirvatnet could not long accommodate the increasing number of visitors wanting to see this part of Jotunheimen. [3-131] Amund Elveseter, one of the owners of Ytterdalssetrene, saw the need and moved his building farther up in the valley. [3-132] He got support from DNT for transportation and expansions; and in 1887 he and his wife, Anne, were ready for guests up at Slethamn, three miles from Leirvatnet. [3-133] This soon became a popular hikers' hut. [3-134] Amund died in 1904, and he had the misfortune of having the hut flattened by an avalanche shortly before his death. [3-135] Fortunately his son, Rasmus, who was also a hard worker, moved the structure once again. [3-136] The site chosen this time was one that has often been praised as the finest in all of Jotunheimen - by the base of Kyrkja and the bank of Leirvatnet. [3-137] The new Leirvassbu was completed in 1906. [3-138] Its history follows the same rebuilding pattern as most of the Jotunheimen huts, first supervised by Rasmus and his wife Magnhild, then by their son Åmund and his wife Jessie. [3-139] They turned their farm, Elveseter, into a gem, at the same time expanding Leirvassbu to current hotel standard, with electricity, telephone, and a road. [3-140] Running both Elveseter and Leirvassbu became too much, however, so for years Åmund has leased Leirvassbu to other competent people. [3-141] They have managed to maintain the friendly atmosphere in this place, which has so much to offer to hikers, climbers, and skiers. [3-142] And you will find the stone shelter that DNT initially built newly restored on the hillside just below today's modern hikers' hut. [3-143]
[3-144 |] Access [3-145] Road to the hut. [3-146] Marked trails to Gjendebu, Spiterstulen, and Olavsbu. [3-147 |] Facts [3-148] Leirvassbu was built by DNT in 1875 as a stone shelter. [3-149] The first hikers' hut came in 1906. [3-150 |] Owner: Åmund Elveseter. [3-151 |] Managers: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. [3-152] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 4600 feet, 190 beds. [3-153 |] Tel: 61 21 29 32. [3-154 |] E-mail: lvassbu@online.no [3-155]
[3-156 |] Fannaråken [3-157 |] Norway's Loftiest Hikers' Hut [3-158]
[3-159] Like a mighty watchman over the ancient route across Sognefjell, Fannaråken looms wide and somber, most often shrouded in fog - a mute warning of stormy weather. [3-160] But occasionally its summit turns bright, brilliant, and inviting, revealing this to be one of the most accessible of Jotunheimen's high peaks. [3-161] Once on top you will see that it is also one of the finest lookouts in all of Norway, if the weather holds. [3-162] The peaks of Hurrungane are so close that you feel like reaching out to touch them. [3-163] You get an almost full view of Smørstabbreen to the east. [3-164] To the west, in Breheimen, you see large parts of the giant glacier Jostedalsbreen, and you follow the range to Holåtindane and Hestbrepiggane up north. [3-165] As early as 1926 weather forecasters built an observatory atop Fannaråken, stationing two observers there year round. [3-166] They wanted a lofty observation point for early spotting of bad weather systems moving in from the west. [3-167] It was a hard life, with lots of storms and a continual battle against ice, snow, and dampness most of the year. [3-168] In really bad weather it was hardly possible to venture outdoors. [3-169] DNT contributed to the building of the observatory, and hikers were allowed to use a room there. [3-170] It quickly became too small; and in 1934 the first hikers' hut was in place, after a formidable haul, in which packhorses, pulley and cable, and porters were used to transport the thirty-some tons needed to put in place twelve beds, a lounge, and a kitchen at 6783 feet. [3-171] The hut has since been expanded and modernized several times, now serving as a fine place to visit whether you stay the night or not. [3-172]
[3-173 |] Access [3-174] Marked trails to Turtagrø, Sognefjell, and Skogadalsbøen. [3-175]
[3-176 |] Facts [3-177] Fannaråkhytta has had visitors since 1926. [3-178 |] Owner: DNT OA. [3-179] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 6783 feet, 36 beds. [3-180 |] Tel: 941 35 993. [3-181 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [3-182]
[3-183 |] Turtagrø The Climbers' Hotel [3-184 |] Access [3-185] The Sognefjell Road passes the hotel. [3-186] Marked trails to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu, and Stølsdalen. [3-187] The road is closed in the winter, but is normally cleared to Turtagrø. [3-188]
[3-189 |] Facts [3-190] Turtagrø was built in 1888. [3-191] Owned and operated by Ole Berge Drægni. [3-192] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 2900 feet, 80 beds. [3-193 |] Tel: 57 68 61 16. [3-194 |] E-mail: turtagro@online.no [3-195 |] URL: www.skjolden.com/bylus/turtagro.html [3-196]
[3-197 |] Olavsbu See description in Booklet 2 [3-198 |] Access [3-199] Marked trails to Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Skogadalsbøen, Eidsbugarden, and Fondsbu. [3-200]
[3-201 |] Facts [3-202] Olavsbu self-service hut opened in 1952. [3-203 |] Owner: DNT OA. [3-204] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 4700 feet, 40 beds. [3-205 |] No telephone. [3-206 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [3-207]
[3-208 |] Stølsdalen See description in Booklet 4 [3-209 |] Access [3-210] Marked trails to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalseter, and Herva by Skålavatnet. [3-211]
[3-212 |] Facts [3-213] Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is run as a self-service hut. [3-214 |] Owner: DNT OA. [3-215 |] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 3400 feet, 8 beds. [3-216 |] No telephone. [3-217 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [3-218]
[3-219 |] Krossbu See description in Booklet 4 [3-220 |] Access [3-221] The Sognefjell Road passes the hut, bus service. [3-222] Marked trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (glacier guide), Skogadalsbøen, and Fannaråken (glacier guide). [3-223]
[3-224 |] Facts [3-225] Krossbu Turiststasjon opened in 1902. [3-226 |] Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. [3-227] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 4130 feet, 85 beds. [3-228 |] Tel: 61 21 29 22. [3-229]
[3-230 |] Eidsbugarden [3-231] See description in Booklet 2 [3-232]
[3-233 |] Access [3-234] Road to the hotel and boat service on Bygdin. [3-235] Marked trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen, and Yksendalsbu. [3-236]
[3-237 |] Facts [3-238] Eidsbugarden Hotell's predecessor, the Vinje cabin, was built in 1868. [3-239 |] Owner: Hans Martin Skagen. [3-240 |] Manager: Leif Skagen. [3-241] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 50 beds. [3-242 |] Tel. 61 36 77 14. [3-243 |] E-mail: ocdahl@online.no [3-244]
[3-245 |] Sognefjellhytta [3-246 |] See description in Booklet 4 [3-247]
[3-248 |] Access [3-249] The Sognefjell Road passes the hut, bus service. [3-250] Marked trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (glacier guide), Skogadalsbøen, and Fannaråken (glacier guide). [3-251]
[3-252 |] Facts [3-253] Sognefjellhytta opened in 1947. [3-254 |] Owners: Anne Tove Mundhjeld and Arnfinn Jensen. [3-255] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 4640 feet, 90 beds. [3-256 |] Tel: 61 21 29 34. [3-257 |] E-mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com [3-258 |] URL: www.sognefjellet.com [3-259]
[3-260 |] Tyinholmen Høyfjellsstuer [3-261 |] Access [3-262] Road, marked trails to Skogadalsbøen, Vettismorki, and Slettningsbu. [3-263]
[3-264 |] Facts [3-265] Tyinholmen has welcomed guests since 1893. [3-266 |] Owners: Inger Sagstuen and Erling Olsen. [3-267] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 65 beds. [3-268 |] Tel: 61 36 78 88. [3-269]
[3-270 |] Gjendebu See description in Booklet 1 [3-271 |] Access [3-272] Boat service on Gjende all summer. [3-273] Marked trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, and Torfinnsbu. [3-274]
[3-275 |] Facts [3-276] Gjendebu opened in 1871. [3-277 |] Owner: DNT OA. [3-278 |] Managers: Aase and Håkon Dalen. [3-279] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 3250 feet, 119 beds, including 34 in the self-service hut. [3-280 |] Tel. 61 23 89 44. [3-281 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [3-282]
[3-283 |] Fondsbu See description in Booklet 2 [3-284 |] Access [3-285] Road to Fondsbu, boat service on Bygdin. [3-286] Marked trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen, and Yksendalsbu. [3-287]
[3-288 |] Facts [3-289] Fondsbu opened in 1993. [3-290 |] Owner: Fondsfinans AS. [3-291 |] Renter: DNT OA [3-292 |] Managers: Nina Schreiber and Helge Lindstad. [3-293] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 90 beds. [3-294 |] Tel. 970 74 218. [3-295 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [3-296 |] WebCam: www.eidsbugarden.com [3-297]
[3-298 |] All Along Utladalen [3-299 |] Trip 3a - 3-4 days - gg [3-300]
[3-301] If you can choose only one Jotunheimen valley, my suggestion is that you pick Utladalen and start at Fannaråken. [3-302] This will give you a real cross-section of what the area has to offer. [3-303]
[3-304 |] 1. Turtagrø - Fannaråken [3-305] Most visitors to Utladalen start at Øvre Årdal and Hjelle and travel up the valley, but my preference is to start at the north end and go mostly downhill. [3-306] You then have the choice of several approaches: from Turtagrø past Keisaren, or from Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu through Vetleutladalen. [3-307] But my favorite is to begin the trip down Utladalen at Fannaråken. [3-308] This entails an initial strenuous uphill, but it is worth it. [3-309] In nice weather you will have a fantastic view of the area you are then descending into. [3-310] Before the sun sets behind Jostedalsbreen, the sun's last rays will glow on the jagged peaks of Hurrungane, and from your vantage point atop Fannaråken the most impressive sights are Gjertvasstind, Styggedalstindane, and Skagastølstindane. [3-311] The ascent from Turtagrø to Fannaråken is more than 3000 feet, but the trail is good and the grade mostly even. [3-312] The trail enters Helgedalen, in parts running parallel to a fairly new farm road toward Keisaren to Skautevatnet. [3-313] It is closed to ordinary traffic, but you could bike along the valley and park where the road and the trail part. [3-314] Markers take you past Ekrehytta, to a steady climb up to Fannaråkhytta. [3-315]
[3-316 |] 2. Fannaråkhytta - Skogadalsbøen [3-317] If the weather at Fannaråken is fine, you are likely to get a late start, which is ok, for today's hike is manageable. [3-318] It goes first along the ridge of Fannaråken to Fannaråknosa, before descending steadily, first to Keisarpasset (deserving of its grand name "Emperor's Pass"), and then down Gjertvassdalen. [3-319] There is a lot of rock until the grass gradually takes over, and down in the valley the fields are nice and green. [3-320] It is obvious why this has long been valued pastureland. [3-321] The first summer farms in Utladalen were probably the ones in Guridalen or at nearby Gjertvassbøen, some time in the 1700s. [3-322] Murane and Lusahaugane across the valley, at the mouth of Storutladalen, were added later. [3-323] Utladalen's pasturage was so good that until fairly recently farmers from Luster traveled the long and treacherous road from their valley over Keisaren with their herds. [3-324] Today's domestic animals are not as sure-footed, which may explain the new road in Helgedalen, but part of the valley is still used for pasture. [3-325] But not nearly as much as earlier. [3-326] Once you cross the sturdy bridge across Utla, the trail enters dense birch forest, which used to be pretty sparse, judging by old pictures. [3-327] The reforestration is probably due to less grazing and less cutting of firewood. [3-328] After a good mile you leave the forest behind and get down to the scenic Skogadalsbøen hut. [3-329]
[3-330 |] 3. Skogadalsbøen - Ingjerdbu, Vetti, Hjelle [3-331] The trail down Utladalen from Skogadalsbøen also begins as an ascent. [3-332] The hikers' hut lies snugly nestled at a mere 2740 feet, and following the trail south you have to crawl upward to nearly 4300 feet to get past Friken. [3-333] Along the way the trail forks twice. [3-334] First the trail to Olavsbu, Gjendebu, and Fondsbu turns left, and 500 yards farther up the trail to Tyinholmen through Uradalen heads east. [3-335] Once on top of Friken, you can enjoy a splendid view and the fact that it is all downhill from here. [3-336] You first get to the old summer farm Fleskedalen, with a new junction offering you an alternate route via Tyinholmen to the beautiful Vettismorki. [3-337]
[3-338] You can stay at the self-service huts Ingjerdbu or Morkabu, which are owned and run by Vetti Farm. [3-339] The huts are not far from the magnificent Vettisfossen, a definite must-see. [3-340] Hjelle is also close enough for the same day hike, first by a steep drop to the old mountain farm Vetti (meals, no lodging) and then along the pleasant car-free gravel road to Hjelle. [3-341]
[3-342 |] The Finest Jotunheimen Valley [3-343] As if a divine cleft Utladalen opens to the north from Øvre Årdal far into Jotunheimen. [3-344] The mark thus left by the gods is three miles long, ending up on Sognefjell. [3-345] Thus Hurrungane were separated from Stølsnostindane and the Fannaråk glacier from Smørstabbreen. [3-346] The act of creation was completed by adding some raging rivers and plunging waterfalls from a dozen hanging side valleys and a generous sprinkling of colors from nature's palette - ranging from luxuriant greens to icy blues. [3-347] More than fifty peaks above 6500 feet enclose Utladalen; but despite its steepness and stark formations, the greens predominate. [3-348] Although it looks inaccessible, people have lived in many parts of it for generations, both at the bottom and up along its precipitous sides. [3-349] Today there is not much left of either farming or summering in the valley, but many of the buildings still stand, some of them in use as hikers' huts. [3-350] A hike all along this valley is a very special experience. [3-351]
[3-352 |] Utladalen Naturhus [3-353] This is an interpretive center in the old Skåri farm buildings near Hjelle, just inside the Utladalen nature reserve. [3-354] The exhibits describe the natural and cultural history of western Jotunheimen. [3-355] DNT and the Nature Inspectorate also have displays in the center. [3-356] In summer there is a café in the farmhouse. [3-357] This center is meant to supplement the Norwegian Mountain Museum in Lom, which is part of the national park system. [3-358]
[3-359 |] Day Hikes at Skogadalsbøen [3-360] Skogadalsbøen is a good base for reaching Gjertvasstind's 7711 feet. [3-361] The route is often called "Norway's longest uphill," so it is an ambitious day hike; but you can do it if you are in good shape. [3-362] At the other end of the scale is a walk down to the abandoned summer farm Vormeli, barely 2000 feet above sea level. [3-363] This is easily combined with a visit to the ruins at Gjertvassbøen along Utla. [3-364]
[3-365 |] Stately Vettismorki [3-366] Stately is the word for Vettismorki - the rows of tall, graceful, giant pines worthy of far more southerly latitudes. [3-367] Several of them are nearly 800 years old; and it is astonishing to find such vegetation at 2300 feet. [3-368] In places the forest appears to be all primeval, but looks are deceptive, for there has been considerable lumbering in periods. [3-369] In the early 1700s the copper mines at Gruvefjellet (west of Årdal) needed a lot of timber, and lumbering continued in the 1800s. [3-370] The logs were sent down Vettisfossen in late winter, when the waterfall would have formed a giant ice clump at its foot, to a height of 260 feet, breaking the fall. [3-371] There was vigorous reforestration until Årdal og Sunndal Verk began their aluminium production; and especially after 1930 growth was good thanks to an improved climate and reduced grazing. [3-372] Fluorine gas from Årdal has, however, severely damaged the forest. [3-373]
[3-374 |] Vettisfossen [3-375] The regulation of Maradalsfossen made Vettisfossen Norway's highest free-falling waterfall. [3-376] If you decide to descend the steep slopes to Vetti, be sure to treat yourself to the detour from the farm over to Vettisfossen. [3-377] The sight of its 900-foot free fall can leave even the most blasé traveler breathless. [3-378] With caution you can get right under the waterfall. [3-379] It is a fantastic feeling to bend your neck to see where the water-stream leaves the edge, while being sprayed in the mist. [3-380] Give some thought to the fact that some winters it freezes into one solid column, which eager ice climbers ascend. [3-381] If you decide to spend more time at Vettismorki, you can experience all of Vettisfossen. [3-382] A path leads over to a lookout, where just leaning over will convince you that Vettisfossen can feel quite overwhelming from the top, as well. [3-383]
[3-384 |] Distances [3-385 |] Turtagrø - Fannaråkhytta, 4 h. up, 3 h. down. [3-386 |] Fannaråken - Skogadalsbøen, 4 h. down, 5 h. up. [3-387 |] Sognefjell - Skogadalsbøen, 5 h. [3-388 |] Turtagrø - Skogadalsbøen, 6 h. [3-389 |] Skogadalsbøen - Ingjerdbu, 5 h. [3-390 |] Ingjerdbu - Hjelle, 2 h. [3-391]
[3-392 |] Lodging [3-393] Turtagrø, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Skogadalsbøen, Ingjerdbu, and Morkabu. [3-394]
[3-395 |] Transportation [3-396] Bus to Øvre Årdal and to Turtagrø and Sognefjell. [3-397] Road to Hjelle from Øvre Årdal. [3-398]
[3-399 |] Sognefjell Circuit [3-400 |] Trip 3b - 3 days - gg [3-401] This is a nicely varied loop, giving you a taste of ice, altitude, and Utladalen greenery. [3-402]
[3-403 |] 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Fannaråkhytta [3-404] Trails lead from both huts to the edge of Fannaråkbreen, merging before Prestesteinsvatnet and approaching the glacier together. [3-405] For crossing you need either your own skills and equipment or the assistance of a guide. [3-406] From early July till late August there is daily guiding. [3-407] The guide stays at Fannaråken and meets the hikers by the lower edge at 1 p.m. You need to sign up for a guide to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta the night before. [3-408] The route over the glacier is steep at first, but levels off. [3-409] There are both crevasses and moulins that may be snow-covered, so take care. [3-410] The route goes to the precipitous east slope of Fannaråken, quite slanted and steep at the end, before getting onto the ridge to join the Skogadalsbøen trail. [3-411] From Fannaråknosi to the hut the trail traverses a plateau with a great view. [3-412]
[3-413 |] 2. Fannaråkhytta - Skogadalsbøen [3-414] See Trip 3a. [3-415]
[3-416 |] 3. Skogadalsbøen - Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [3-417] The first few miles the trail goes through a dense birch forest; but once you have crossed the river at Storebrua, the trees are left behind. [3-418] The trail passes the old summer farm in Guridalen, continuing up the valley west of the river. [3-419] Bridges cross Kongsdøla and Steindøla, and a short mile past the latter the trail forks, verging left for Sognefjellhytta, right for Krossbu. [3-420] The distance is about the same to either huts, and the trail is well marked, so let your own preference be your guide. [3-421]
[3-422 |] Distances [3-423 |] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Fannaråkhytta, 5 h. [3-424 |] Fannaråkhytta - Skogadalsbøen, 4 h. down, 5 h. up. [3-425 |] Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, 5 h. [3-426]
[3-427 |] Lodging [3-428] Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta, and Skogadalsbøen. [3-429]
[3-430 |] Transportation [3-431] Road, bus service over Sognefjell. [3-432]
[3-433 |] Over Glaciers and Peaks in Western Jotunheimen [3-434 |] Trip 3c - 5 days - gg [3-435 |] This is a grand tour offering glacier traverses, alpine passes, deep valleys, and many optional detours to Jotunheimen high peaks. [3-436]
[3-437 |] 1. Leirvassbu - Olavsbu [3-438] The start of our loop is nice and easy. [3-439] The trail follows a moderate grade up along the ridge to Høgvaglen. [3-440] In a short mile it leaves the ridge, skirting the two Høgvagltjørnene on the east side. [3-441] The path is quite rocky but gradually improves as it turns south. [3-442] The stream from Nedre Høgvagltjørn is crossed on rocks or waded. [3-443] The lower tarn in Semmeldalsmunnen is passed to the east, as is the next. [3-444] There is a steep climb up to Raudalsbandet, where there is often a snowpack. [3-445] If it is slippery, an easier ascent can be found by going farther east. [3-446] Up on Raudalsbandet the view opens again. [3-447] The ascents of Skardalstind (see Booklet 2) and Austre Raudalstind (see box) start here. [3-448] There is a steady descent to Olavsbu from the ridge. [3-449]
[3-450 |] 2. Olavsbu - Fondsbu [3-451] From Olavsbu two routes lead west to Skogadalsbøen, both of them nice options if you want a shorter loop than the suggested one. [3-452] And if you want a longer one, you can follow Raudalen to Gjendebu and then west to Fondsbu. [3-453] My suggestion is the intermediate one, that you hike to Fondsbu and then to Skogadalsbøen. [3-454] The leg over to Fondsbu skirts the feet of Mjølkeholstind, Sjogholstind, and Storegut; so if you are up to it, the latter two, at any rate, make a nice side trip. [3-455] The hike to Fondsbu is fairly undemanding, starting on rocky terrain to the gap north of Sjogholstind and continuing around the lake and through another gap before approaching Store Mjølkedalsvatnet, staying to the east of it, over another ridge, and then downhill to Fondsbu. [3-456]
[3-457 |] 3. Fondsbu - Skogadalsbøen [3-458] The next leg is longer than the two previous ones, but there are alternatives. [3-459] My suggestion is that you go over Sløtafjellet and through Uradalen; it is a nicely varied hike. [3-460] The day again starts with a climb fit to get your circulation going. [3-461] Kvitevatnet is skirted to the west. [3-462] An alternate route to Skogadalsbøen runs over Uranosbreen and Skogadalsbreen, and this route (not indicated on the map) starts along the east side of Kvitevatnet and requires glacier skills. [3-463] Continuing toward Uradalsvatnet, you have to expect a bit of wading both in the river from Kvitevatnet and at the outlet of Uradalsvatnet. [3-464] The trail skirts its western shore, gradually climbing to the gap and into Uradalen proper. [3-465] Here it is mostly downhill, but in this aptly named "Scree Valley" you have to expect some tricky footing, especially when you cross Storura (Big Slide). [3-466] The trail then drops down into the green Utladalen and along to Skogadalsbøen. [3-467]
[3-468 |] 4. Skogadalsbøen - Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [3-469] See Trip 3b. [3-470]
[3-471 |] 5. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Leirvassbu Across Smørstabbreen [3-472] At about 9:30 a.m. every day from early July to the middle of August a glacier guide leaves Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta with hikers going east on Smørstabbreen. [3-473] At the same time a guide leaves Leirvassbu with a group going west across the glacier. [3-474] At all three huts you have to sign up the previous evening. [3-475] Joining a group is a nice option even if not strictly needed, and it is quite reasonable. [3-476] The guide brings ropes, crampons, and other equipment. [3-477] The route reaches 5900 feet and is tough in bad weather. [3-478] Be extra careful to bring clothing sure to keep wind and rain out and warmth in. [3-479] From the west the route normally goes to the north of Bøverbreen, south of Kalven, toward Storebjørn, before the icefall down to Sandelvbreen, across it, and slightly uphill to cross Surtningsbreen. [3-480] This glacier is fairly steep, so you need to take care if the snow is hard. [3-481] From the saddle between Surtningstind and Stetind a trail runs west and down into Gravdalen. [3-482] The last few miles to Leirvassbu you can follow the valley's old service road or a trail that runs roughly parallel to it. [3-483]
[3-484 |] Hikes around Olavsbu [3-485] A couple of hikes in the Olavsbu vicinity (besides those in Booklet 2) should be mentioned. [3-486] Mjølkedalstind is an obvious choice. [3-487] William C. Slingsby and Johannes Vigdal climbed it in 1881, describing it as one of Norway's most graceful peaks. [3-488] The summit is exposed, especially the last bit, and the trail is steep to the edge, but with caution most hikers will find the trip quite manageable. [3-489] The second peak I want to mention is Austre Raudalstind. [3-490] It is best climbed from the north, so you need to get to Raudalsbandet to traverse Simledalsbandet to the ridge west of the summit before going for the cairn at the top. [3-491 |] Plenty of Hikes from Leirvassbu [3-492] Peak-baggers in Jotunheimen can hardly find a better hut for doing 6500-footers (or 2000-meters). [3-493] There is a multitude of peaks and ridges with possibilities for any grade of difficulty in traverses and climbs. [3-494] You need only study the map and recent guidebooks, stuff your pack, and start moving. [3-495] The main target is given. [3-496] Kyrkja's characteristic profile towers over Leirvassbu, and getting to the top is well near obligatory for anyone staying at the hut. [3-497] The usual approach is from the south and is easy but exposed. [3-498] It starts along a wide, scree-covered ridge. [3-499] The top 300 feet of the crest is steep and narrow. [3-500] If you want more climbing, have your pick: Raudalstindane, Høgvagltindane, Visbretindane, and Uradalstindane, to mention a few. [3-501] For glacier lovers the choices are also many. [3-502] No wonder this was the hut chosen for DNT's so-called alpine workshops - combining glacier travel and climbing - in the late 1980s. [3-503] Going north toward Galdhøpiggen there are several small but interesting glaciers. [3-504] At Easter a great trip runs from Leirvassbu via Visdalen across a number of these glaciers, rounding Galdhøpiggen through Porten down to Juvasshytta. [3-505] This route used to be marked. [3-506] To the west it is primarily the large Smørstabbreen that attracts glacier enthusiasts. [3-507] It has guides all summer, being a nice alternative not only for those in dire need of a guide. [3-508] There is fish in Leirvatnet, and down at Slethamn there is a geology trail, so you will find things to do at Leirvassbu even when the weather is not gorgeous. [3-509]
[3-510 |] Langeskavltind from Fondsbu [3-511] In Booklet 2 you will find suggestions for day hikes around Fondsbu; but the map of the finest hike is only included in this booklet, namely the trip to Langeskavltind. [3-512] It starts by following the marked trail to Olavsbu to where it leaves the shore of Store Mjølkedalsvatnet at the base of mighty Storegut (a peak best climbed from the back near Øvre Mjølkedalstjørnet). [3-513] Continue around Store Mjølkedalsvatnet and up the icefall of Mjølkedalsbreen, for which you need the necessary skills and equipment. [3-514] Then Langeskavltind and Uraknatten are within reach, not to mention their big brother, Uranostind, at 7075 feet. [3-515] You can return over Langeskavlen, making this quite a tour. [3-516] If you are not that ambitious or lack glacier skills, my suggestion is that you skirt Mjølkedalsvatnet on the small tongue to the northwest and follow the river down to Bygdin again. [3-517]
[3-518 |] Distances [3-519 |] Olavsbu - Leirvassbu, 4 h. [3-520 |] Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Skogadalen), 6 h. [3-521 |] Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Raudalen), 6 h. [3-522 |] Olavsbu - Fondsbu, 5 h. [3-523 |] Fondsbu - Skogadalsbøen, through Uradalen, 7 h. [3-524 |] Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, 5 h. [3-525 |] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Smørstabbreen - Leirvassbu, 6 h. [3-526]
[3-527 |] Lodging [3-528] Leirvassbu, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, Skogadalsbøen, Krossbu, and Sognefjellhytta. [3-529]