[4-4] In 1874, 24 years after the first ascent of Norway's highest mountain, Knud O. Vole, a tenant farmer under Røisheim, became a Galdhøpiggen guide, soon gaining a reputation as both friendly and dependable. [4-5] Getting to the top on a day trip from Røisheim in Bøverdalen usually called for a 4 a.m. start and a correspondingly late return. [4-6] No doubt Knud had many an occasion on his long, strenuous climbs of Galdhøpiggen to wish for shelter along the way; and in September 1884 he and his son Ole began building a stone hut by Juvvatnet. [4-7] Building above 6000 feet, on one of the most exposed sites in all of Jotunheimen, must have been quite a chore. [4-8] Every day Knud and Ole had to return to Raubergstulen, at about 3000 feet, for the night! [4-9] But their work was a success, and the stone hut by Juvvatnet soon became popular. [4-10] In the summer of 1885 eighty people visited it, and the traffic increased steadily. [4-11] The five beds in the original hut became inadequate, and Knud built on several times, as did his son Knut K. and his wife Rønnaug after taking over in 1914. [4-12] They also built a road to Juvvatnet and got electricity and telephone service. [4-13] In 1956 their daughters Ragnhild and Tora took over, continuing the additions to Juvasshytta, the latest in 1994. [4-14] All the additions made during the years have turned this into a long, strange-looking structure seen from the outside, but indoors the styles from different periods blend together nicely. [4-15] It is very understandable that hikers enjoy it here. [4-16] Climbing Galdhøpiggen has become a popular activity, so on a busy day Juvasshytta guides may take two or three hundred people to the top, and many of them spend the night at the hut. [4-17] But Galdhøpiggen is by no means the only reason to visit the hut by Juvvatnet. [4-18] In the summer many people come from the valley to ski on Veslejuvbreen about a mile from Juvasshytta. [4-19]
[4-20 |] Access [4-21] Road, bus service. [4-22] Marked trails to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Røisheim, and Elveseter. [4-23]
[4-24 |] Facts [4-25] Juvasshytta has welcomed visitors since 1884. [4-26 |] Owner: Ragnhild Vole. [4-27] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 6035 feet, 85 beds. [4-28 |] Tel: 61 21 15 50. [4-29 |] URL: www.juvasshytta.no [4-30]
[4-31 |] Spiterstulen [4-32 |] The Largest Hikers' Hut [4-33]
[4-34] A hut placed between the giants Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind will feel the impact of its neighbors, as indeed Spiterstulen has. [4-35] What was once a modest summer farm has grown into Jotunheimen's largest and most popular hut. [4-36] Its 230 beds give rest to 25,000 guests a year. [4-37] Visitors to the area came early. [4-38] Well before the students Keilhau and Bock "discovered" Jotunheimen in 1820 people traveled between Gudbrandsdalen and Valdres through Visdalen, many of them finding it convenient to spend the night at Spiterstulen. [4-39] However, gradually visitors also included those traveling for pleasure rather than necessity. [4-40] The first tourist reporting from Visdalen, in 1823, "was well received at this summer farm." [4-41] Steinar Sulheim, the owner at the time, saw the potential, and in 1836 he added an annex to accommodate tourists and hunters. [4-42] Fortunately the growth has been prudent. [4-43] Building huts on a large scale often makes them jar with their surroundings, but at Spiterstulen they have managed to keep the original style. [4-44] Sulheim was also one of the three who first climbed Galdhøpiggen; and the interest in Norway's highest mountain did a lot for Spiterstulen's popularity. [4-45] Galdhøpiggen does not alone account for its success, however. [4-46] Its location is fortuitous in other ways, as well. [4-47] Glittertind, at 8082 feet, is also conveniently close, and sixteen of Norway's twenty-six peaks above 7500 feet can be done on day hikes from Spiterstulen, a plethora of challenges for peak-baggers. [4-48] Spiterstulen has also been important to the sport of glacier-crossing. [4-49] Many aspiring glacier-walkers have had their first try at Svellnosbreen, the large glacier on the south wall of Galdhøpiggen. [4-50] Since 1949 Spiterstulen guides have taken thousands of tourists up into the icefall. [4-51] But you do not need to be a mountaineering enthusiast to enjoy Spiterstulen. [4-52] If you want to see what our ancestors got out of the mountains, you can see animal pitfalls and trapping structures both along the trail to Glitterheim and below Spiterhø. [4-53] Farther into the valley, by Hellstuguåa, there are sites from the 1100s, with remains of what may have been shelters for travelers at that time. [4-54]
[4-55 |] Access [4-56] Road, bus service. [4-57] Marked trails to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu, and Gjendebu. [4-58]
[4-59 |] Facts [4-60] Spiterstulen has welcomed tourists since the 1830s. [4-61 |] Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim. [4-62] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 3600 feet, 230 beds. [4-63 |] Tel: 61 21 14 80. [4-64 |] URL: www.spiterstulen.no [4-65]
[4-66 |] Sognefjellhytta [4-67 |] Summer Skiing and Glacier Trips [4-68]
[4-69] In times past many travelers lost their lives trying to cross Sognefjellet. [4-70] In the hardship years of 1812-1813 six people froze to death on their way to Sogn to get grain. [4-71] Today the tragedy is recalled in six cairns. [4-72] The poet Henrik Wergeland must have found this route appalling, since he describes it, after having crossed it in 1832, thus: [4-73] "This alpine wasteland of Sognefjellet is the frightful link between the residents of Lom and Sogn." [4-74] Thus it is easy to understand the fervent hopes of Lom and Skjolden residents for a better road over the mountain, but for a long time money was just not available for such an ambitious project. [4-75] So in the mid-1930s a works project was started. [4-76] Two hundred young people struggled from either end with their spades, crowbars, picks, and wheelbarrows through long summer months. [4-77] In a mere couple of years the twelve and a half miles of mountain road had been successfully completed. [4-78] Two log cabins used in the construction first served as a restaurant after the war, and in 1947 Torkjell Bakkeberg opened his hut at Sognefjellet to accommodate motorists and hikers alike. [4-79] In winter the road is normally only cleared to Jotunheimen Fjellstue in the east and to Turtagrø in the west, but in April/May it opens for through traffic. [4-80] Then this becomes perhaps Norway's most convenient base for those who want an easy access to high peaks, and it is normally possible to ski in the vicinity of the hut all summer. [4-81] Many national ski teams and sports clubs have realized this, choosing Sognefjellet for their summer training camp. [4-82] Sognefjellhytta is also a good place for hikes and glacier walks. [4-83] Both Smørstabbtindane and Fannaråken are natural destinations, with daily guided trips across their glaciers. [4-84]
[4-85 |] Access [4-86] The Sognefjell Road runs past the hut, bus service. [4-87] Marked trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (glacier guide), Skogadalsbøen, and Fannaråken (glacier guide). [4-88]
[4-89 |] Facts [4-90] Sognefjellhytta opened in 1947. [4-91 |] Owner: Råmund Mundhjeld. [4-92] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 4640 feet, 90 beds. [4-93 |] Tel: 61 21 29 34. [4-94 |] E-mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com [4-95 |] URL: www.sognefjellet.com [4-96]
[4-97 |] Krossbu turiststasjon [4-98 |] From Inn to Glacier Center [4-99]
[4-100] The Sognefjell Road between the uppermost farms in Bøverdalen and Fortun on the other side of the mountain is about nineteen miles long. [4-101] This distance was a bit too much of a day's hike for many people, especially in bad weather, so when Krossboden, or Krosshø Hotel, as it was also referred to in contemporary guidebooks, opened in 1902, it was a relief to many travelers. [4-102] This is readily seen in the first guest register, which is full of praise for the good care and pleasant stay. [4-103] It was Nils T. Bakkeberg who was responsible for the building. [4-104] He later gained a reputation as a mountain guide, also licensed by DNT, in addition to his role as inn-keeper. [4-105] Like so many of his contemporaries in the business, he soon found his hut to be too small. [4-106] In 1914 an annex was ready, later known as Nilsestugu, today used as a self-service hut when the main hut is closed. [4-107] In connection with the opening of the Sognefjell Road, in 1938, another structure was added, and in 1974 the main hut got its current shape. [4-108] Even if the hut was originally built for through traffic, its attraction to hikers soon became obvious. [4-109] Smørstabbreen became an early attraction, many people hiring a guide to go from Krossbu, up Leirbreen or Bøverbreen, past Kalven, Storebjørn, and Surtningstind to Leirvassbu. [4-110] Guided crossings are still very popular. [4-111] On good days thirty or forty people may leave the hut to follow the guide to Leirvassbu. [4-112] During the season there are often guided trips in both directions every day. [4-113] Many people prefer to learn about glaciers in other ways, however, and DNT's glacier courses at Krossbu are very popular. [4-114] Participants learn how to use ropes and other equipment required to navigate safely on ice and snow. [4-115] The final lesson often includes a traverse of the glacier or a summit climb. [4-116] Within a day hike from Krossbu there are twenty-three peaks above 6500 feet, so there is plenty to choose from. [4-117]
[4-118 |] Access [4-119] The Sognefjell Road runs past the hut, bus service. [4-120] Marked trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (glacier guide), Skogadalsbøen, and Fannaråken (glacier guide). [4-121]
[4-122 |] Facts [4-123] Krossbu Turiststasjon opened in 1902. [4-124 |] Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. [4-125] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 4100 feet, 85 beds. [4-126 |] Tel: 61 21 29 22. [4-127]
[4-128 |] Stølsdalen [4-129 |] An Attractive Gateway [4-130]
[4-131] Standing by the road down to Skålavatnet, you will see light reflected in the windows at Stølsdalen just over on the hill; but once you start walking, you will fully experience the visual fallacy it is in the mountains to think of the straight course as the quickest. [4-132] A lake and a series of drop-offs bar any attempt at going straight, forcing you up and down, left and right. [4-133] A couple of hours later you will have put behind a mere 2.5 miles in aerial distance and will be ready to rest up against the stone wall of Stølsdalen. [4-134] Up until 1991 this summer farm rested in sunny silence ever since the valley farm Ormelid stopped their summering up here. [4-135] The hiking club had then long been on the lookout for a shelter in these parts, to split the long leg between Turtagrø and Nørdstedalseter. [4-136] Instead of new construction it made sense to restore an already existing structure on the finest site in the valley. [4-137] So the sheep moved out and the hikers moved in, quite literally. [4-138] The renovation was a big job, starting with the shoveling of sheep dung from the stone shelter and removing most of the old stone walls. [4-139] The builder's success in recreating the old style is evident to anyone who sees the hut: it is a very attractive place to stay, a fine gateway to Breheimen. [4-140] The trail continuing over Liabrekulen to Nørdstedalseter easily clears 5900 feet, and the top offers a terrific panorama of Jotunheimen and Breheimen alike. [4-141] Stølsdalen can be reached in various ways from Skålavatnet, although most of them start on the marked trail from Turtagrø Hotell on the Sognefjell Road. [4-142] But for those who are not averse to a climb I suggest starting from Fortundalen - leaving behind a valley so warm and fertile that tobacco was grown here during the war - it will take you through various ecosystems to the alpine barrens, and then down a bit to the peaceful Stølsdalen. [4-143]
[4-144 |] Access [4-145] Marked trails to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalseter, and Herva by Skålavatnet. [4-146]
[4-147 |] Facts [4-148] Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is run as a self-service hut. [4-149 |] Owner: DNT OA. [4-150] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 3400 feet, 8 beds. [4-151 |] No telephone. [4-152 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [4-153]
[4-154 |] Nørdstedalseter [4-155 |] The Heart of Breheimen [4-156]
[4-157] Norway's longest fjord is Sognefjorden. [4-158] At the end of it you find Skjolden and Fortun, and far up in Fortundalen is the staffed Nørdstedalseter hut. [4-159] For those hiking from Jotunheimen to Breheimen this is an almost obligatory stop, as it has been since the first hut, with four beds, was built here, with DNT support, in 1889. [4-160] For a long time the hut was privately owned, but in 1928 the hiking club took over. [4-161] Since its first addition a few years later, it has had to be expanded several times. [4-162] The area around Nørdstedalseter has also seen many changes. [4-163] Crossing the river just below the hut used to be a risky undertaking for early travelers, prompting many of them to do the extra day hike down the steep valley to Skjolden to spend the night there before hiking back up along Mørkrisdalen instead of heading straight west from Nørdstedalseter. [4-164] Today there is a bridge across the river and a road to the hut, and following the cairns west to Arentzbu is estimated to take barely seven hours. [4-165] The road up Fortundalen was built at the time of the hydro power development in the early 1960s, since it necessitated building a road to the power station at Fivlemyrane. [4-166] Just driving this road up into the mountains is an experience. [4-167] It may be Norway's steepest drive to a hikers' hut, and the road runs through some superb waterfall scenery. [4-168] Compared to the old herd path through the precipitous Kleppeskaret, however, the road is pure pleasure, no matter how narrow and winding. [4-169] Despite the road most people who stay at the hut arrive on foot at Nørdstedalseter, and the list below shows that the options are many. [4-170] Hiking possibilities in the vicinity are also plentiful. [4-171] Liabrekulen, Vetledalen with its pretty Grønevatn, Holåtindane, Harbardsbreen, and Sveidalsbreen are all realistic day hikes. [4-172]
[4-173 |] Access [4-174] Road to the hut, marked trails to Arentzbu, Sota Sæter, Trulsbu, Bøvertun, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, and Stølsdalen. [4-175]
[4-176 |] Facts [4-177] Nørdstedalseter was built in 1889. [4-178 |] Owner: DNT OA. [4-179 |] Manager: Torill Bruaas. [4-180] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 3070 feet, 40 beds, plus 4 for use in self-service part when the hut is closed. [4-181 |] Tel: 95 07 63 82. [4-182 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [4-183]
[4-184 |] Trulsbu [4-185 |] The Link [4-186]
[4-187] Medalsbu at the top of Middalen was no success for DNT, being opened in 1938 and closed in 1957. [4-188] Staying at 4400 feet in this part of Breheimen clearly did not tempt many people, so today there is only a ruin left. [4-189] The idea of the hut was sound, however. [4-190] In addition to its location in a fine hiking area, it was meant to cut the long trip from Skjåk through Lundadalen to Nørdstedalseter in half. [4-191] This is an old trail from eastern to western Norway that ought to be enjoyed by more people. [4-192] But Medalsbu was too close to Nørdstedalseter and too far from Skjåk to meet the need. [4-193] It was thus understandable that when DNT resurrected the plans in the 1980s, they looked for a spot closer to Skjåk, down in Lundadalen. [4-194] It was, however, not possible to find an avalanche-proof site there, so Vesledalen was chosen instead, a bit closer to Lundadalsbandet. [4-195] In 1988 a self-service hut was safely in place at the foot of the handsome Vesledalstinden. [4-196] It was named Trulsbu after Truls Kierulf, who worked actively to link Norwegian hiking clubs more closely together, so a hut that links east and west is thus a fitting memorial to him. [4-197] Trulsbu quickly became more popular than its predecessor. [4-198] Especially in late spring many visitors stay at the hut after having completed the classic ridge hike over Lomseggen and Hestbrepiggane. [4-199] Under good conditions it is possible to traverse eight 6500-footers in one long day from Lom to Trulsbu. [4-200] Holåtindane to the south attract many hikers in spring and summer. [4-201] Tussetind, named after the early mountaineer Therese Berteau, is especially striking, but another couple of these peaks may also appeal to today's hikers, and a detour north to the 6840-foot Hestdalshøgdi lies within a day hike from Trulsbu. [4-202]
[4-203 |] Access [4-204] Marked trails to Sota Sæter, Skjåk, and Nørdstedalseter. [4-205]
[4-206 |] Facts [4-207] Trulsbu was built in 1988 and is operated as a self-service hut. [4-208 |] Owner: DNT OA. [4-209] Located in Skjåk, Oppland, at 4200 feet, 12 beds. [4-210 |] No telephone. [4-211 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [4-212]
[4-213 |] Jotunheimen Fjellstue [4-214 |] Access [4-215] The Sognefjell Road passes the hut, bus service. [4-216]
[4-217 |] Facts [4-218] The hut opened in 1946. [4-219 |] Owners: Åse Wiker, Gøril Wiker, Arne Magnus, and Petter Gudmundahl. [4-220] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 2380 feet, 50 beds. [4-221 |] Tel: 61 21 29 18. [4-222 |] E-mail: info@jotunheimen-fjellstue.no [4-223 |] URL: www.jotunheimen-fjellstue.no [4-224]
[4-225 |] Røisheim [4-226 |] Access [4-227] The Sognefjell Road passes the hut, bus service. [4-228] An old herd path to Juvasshytta. [4-229]
[4-230 |] Facts [4-231] Røisheim began housing tourists in 1858. [4-232 |] Owner: Røisheim Eiendom AS. [4-233 |] Managers: Ingrid and Haavard Lunde. [4-234] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 1770 feet, 48 beds. [4-235 |] Tel: 61 21 20 31. [4-236 |] E-mail: r-drif-a@online.no [4-237 |] URL: www.roisheim.no [4-238]
[4-239 |] Leirvassbu See also Booklet 3 [4-240 |] Access [4-241] Road to the hut. [4-242]
[4-243 |] Facts [4-244] Leirvassbu was built by DNT in 1875 as a stone shelter. [4-245] The first hikers' hut came in 1906. [4-246 |] Owner: Åmund Elveseter. [4-247 |] Managers: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. [4-248] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 4600 feet, 190 beds. [4-249 |] Tel: 61 21 29 32. [4-250 |] E-mail: lvassbu@online.no [4-251]
[4-252 |] Bøvertun fjellstugu [4-253 |] Access [4-254] On the Sognefjell Road, bus service. [4-255] Marked trails from Nørdstedalseter, Sognefjellhytta, and Krossbu. [4-256]
[4-257 |] Facts [4-258] The hut opened in 1864. [4-259 |] Owners: Kjellfrid and Johan Engen. [4-260] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 3100 feet, 76 beds. [4-261 |] Tel: 61 21 29 24. [4-262 |] URL: http//home.sol.no/~bovertun [4-263]
[4-264 |] Raubergstulen turisthytte [4-265 |] Access [4-266] Road, bus service. [4-267] Old herd paths from Røisheim and Juvasshytta. [4-268]
[4-269 |] Facts [4-270] The hut has received visitors since about 1950. [4-271 |] Owners: Borgny and Magnar Mundhjeld. [4-272] Located in Lom, Oppland at 3280 feet, 185 beds. [4-273 |] Tel: 61 21 12 93. [4-274 |] E-mail: rauberg@online.no [4-275]
[4-276] Fannaråken See also Booklet 3. [4-277 |] Access [4-278] Marked trails to Turtagrø, Sognefjell, and Skogadalsbøen. [4-279]
[4-280 |] Facts [4-281] Fannaråkhytta has had visitors since 1926. [4-282 |] Owner: DNT OA. [4-283] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 6783 feet, 36 beds. [4-284 |] Tel: 941 35 993. [4-285 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [4-286]
[4-287 |] Elveseter Hotell [4-288 |] Access [4-289] On the Sognefjell Road, bus service. [4-290] Marked trail from Juvasshytta. [4-291]
[4-292 |] Facts [4-293] The hotel has welcomed guests since about 1880. [4-294 |] Owners: The Elveseter Family. [4-295 |] Manager: Rogne Elveseter. [4-296] Located in Lom, Oppland, at 2200 feet, 240 beds. [4-297 |] Tel: 61 21 2000. [4-298 |] URL: www.elveseter-hotell.no [4-299]
[4-300 |] Turtagrø - the Climbers' Hotel [4-301 |] Access [4-302] The Sognefjell Road passes the hotel. [4-303] Marked trails to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu, and Stølsdalen. [4-304] The road is closed in the winter but is normally cleared to Turtagrø. [4-305]
[4-306 |] Facts [4-307] Turtagrø was built in 1888. [4-308] Owned and run by Ole Berge Drægni. [4-309] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 2900 feet, 80 beds. [4-310 |] Tel: 57 68 61 16. [4-311 |] E-mail: turtagro@online.no [4-312 |] URL: www.skjolden.com/bylus/turtagro.html [4-313]
[4-314 |] Pick a Trip to Suit You [4-315] Planning a suitable hike can be compared to composing a successful meal. [4-316] It makes sense with a starter to prepare the body for the main course, and some dessert is normally nice at the end, as a reward for having finished. [4-317] When coming up with suggested trips for these booklets, I tried to keep this in mind. [4-318] The hikes are meant to provide variety and some peak experiences, also in a figurative sense. [4-319] I hope I have succeeded, for there is plenty to choose from - whether you are into multiple starters, enormous main courses, or tasty desserts. [4-320] The various menus are written to allow for reversing the direction or for making your own combination from different menus. [4-321] When it comes to specifics, length is indicated in hours. [4-322] For a newcomer to the mountains this may seem odd, but in Norwegian mountains it makes sense. [4-323] The terrain is so varied that mileages are often misleading. [4-324] It makes no sense to equate five thousand feet of steep slide-crossing in Jotunheimen with a mile-long walk in an Oslo park. [4-325] The time spent by the average hiker is thus much more relevant for most of us. [4-326] The routes and estimated times of the different trips are given on the map in the back. [4-327] If you keep one finger on the map as you read the trail description, it is likely to make a lot more sense. [4-328] If you want to learn more about the area in which you want to hike, join DNT and get a copy of their Norwegian Mountains on Foot. [4-329] All the marked trails are included in it, and it also has a lot of additional information on Jotunheimen and other Norwegian mountains. [4-330] Before deciding on your menu, just one more reminder: getting your fill is satisfying, but gorging yourself can be most uncomfortable. [4-331]
[4-332 |] Difficulty Rating [4-333]
[4-334 |] g = Easy [4-335 |] gg = Moderate [4-336 |] ggg = Difficult MIDDELS [4-337]
[4-338 |] Climbing Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen [4-339 |] Trip 4a - 1 day - gg - Guide available [4-340]
[4-341] In 1844 Professor B. M. Keilhau and some students stayed at Spiterstulen. [4-342] They tried to climb Galdhøpiggen but had to turn at its subsidiary, later dubbed Keilhaus Topp. [4-343] The first ascent was in 1850, and the feat was achieved by three men from Bøverdalen. [4-344] It was the manager of Spiterstulen, Steinar Sulheim, and two teachers from the valley, J. Arnesen and J. Flåten. [4-345] Then in 1855 the first tourist, Axel Arbo, made it to the top, inspiring many others to want to do so. [4-346] For years there were guided trips from Spiterstulen to "The Peak." [4-347] These days a summit guide is rarely used, but Spiterstulen offers daily guiding on Svellnosbreen (see Trip 4c). [4-348] One of the routes used is to climb the entire icefall and continue up into the col between Keilhaus Topp and Galdhøpiggen. [4-349] From here it is a short climb to "The Peak." [4-350] The return trip runs down the normal route to Spiterstulen. [4-351]
[4-352 |] 1. Spiterstulen - Galdhøpiggen [4-353] The normal route up Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen runs straight up the side of the valley. [4-354] After crossing Visa on a bridge, you soon start the summit climb, first along Piggrovi, reaching the junction for Juvasshytta after a good half mile. [4-355] From Svellnoså the trail runs partly on snowpacks to Keilhaus Topp. [4-356] Crevasses may occur, so follow the marking carefully. [4-357] From the subsidiary summit there is a short descent before the final climb up Norway's highest mountain. [4-358]
[4-359 |] The Galdhøpiggen Huts [4-360] Apart from the years 1970-75 Galdhøpiggen has had shelter on top ever since 1888, when Knud O. Vole at Juvasshytta built the first one. [4-361] In 1925 Lars Sulheim at Spiterstulen put a log cabin, Steinarstugu, on the summit. [4-362] In 1926 Knut K. Vole built a new hut. [4-363] For a while in the 1950s Steinarstugu was staffed and rated as a "post office," with its own postmark. [4-364] In 1960 the staff at Volehytta began offering meals to travelers. [4-365] Both huts suffered a sudden demise, however: on Palm Sunday 1961 Steinarstugu blew away, with remains found as far away as Smiugjelet east of Visdalen, and in 1970 the wind also took Volehytta. [4-366] In 1975 a new stone-and-glass hut was ready, designed by Torbjørn Fjeldstad. [4-367] The builders were now Ragnhild and Tora Vole. [4-368]
[4-369 |] Distances [4-370] Spiterstulen - Galdhøpiggen, 4 h. up, 2 h. down. [4-371]
[4-372 |] Lodging [4-373 |] Spiterstulen. [4-374]
[4-375 |] Transportation [4-376] Road, bus service to Spiterstulen. [4-377]
[4-378 |] Climbing Galdhøpiggen from Juvasshytta [4-379] Trip 4b - 1 day - g - Guide available. [4-380]
[4-381 |] 1. Juvasshytta - Galdhøpiggen [4-382] The first ascent of Galdhøpiggen was done from Spiterstulen, but the owner of Røisheim, Ole Røisheim, soon found a direct route from his hut and became a popular summit guide. [4-383] That route is still marked, but the road to Juvasshytta has reduced its popularity. [4-384] It climbs from Røisheim, past Raubergstulen and Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen, and takes 8 hours. [4-385] It is well worth giving this pioneer route a try, and keep in mind that before the building of Juvasshytta, in 1884, they had to return on the same day! [4-386] After the opening of Juvasshytta, and subsequently of the road, more people chose to start their Galdhøpiggen climb here. [4-387] This is understandable, since the elevation of this hut is 2300 feet higher than Spiterstulen. [4-388] Most visitors to Galdhøpiggen these days are guided to the top from Juvasshytta. [4-389] In the summer guides leave daily at 10 a.m. and 11:30 a.m., with occasional extra trips. [4-390] You sign up at Juvasshytta. [4-391] From here the trip to Norway's highest mountain crosses Juvflya onto Styggebreen, which is full of crevasses, often hidden by snow bridges. [4-392] So if you go on your own, you need glacier skills and equipment. [4-393] The trip continues up to the northern spur of Galdhøpiggen, following the ridge steeply to the summit, where you will find a small cafeteria. [4-394] If guided, most people retrace their steps, but it is possible to continue over the top to Spiterstulen along the marked trail over Keilhaus Topp, see Trip 4a. [4-395 |] A High Point [4-396] Knud Vole was the founder of Juvasshytta and a legendary Galdhøpiggen guide. [4-397] Back then it was quite a feat to reach the summit, so it called for celebration both on "The Peak" and back at Juvasshytta in the evening. [4-398] A large party at the summit on 21 July 1898 reported: [4-399] "... we ran into very bad weather, but our spirits were lifted, especially by two and a half bottles of champagne, two of port, and one of sherry, as well as the entertainment skills of some of our party." [4-400] It may be an idea to save most of the celebration for the return to Juvasshytta. [4-401]
[4-402 |] Distances [4-403] Juvasshytta - Galdhøpiggen, 3 h. up, 2h. down. [4-404]
[4-405 |] Lodging [4-406 |] Juvasshytta and Raubergstulen. [4-407]
[4-408 |] Transportation [4-409] Road, bus service to Juvasshytta. [4-410]
[4-411 |] Glacier Traverse [4-412]
[4-413] Trip 4c - 4-5 days - gg - Guide available. [4-414]
[4-415] You can enjoy a lot of the glaciers in Jotunheimen without glacier experience. [4-416] Several glaciers have guides, and a trip that includes several of them is a real treat. [4-417]
[4-418 |] 1. Spiterstulen - Leirvassbu [4-419] It may be a good idea to start this trip, which will take you across several glaciers, with a bit of practice, such as setting aside a day for accompanying a Spiterstulen guide in the popular activity of walking in the icefall of Svellnosbreen (see box). [4-420] The hike to Leirvassbu is a pleasure. [4-421] The stretch through Visdalen is often, figuratively but justifiably, referred to as Jotunheimen's primrose path. [4-422] The trail is good, the valley is wide and grand, with lofty peaks flanking it on both sides. [4-423] After about a mile you will see the remains of the original Spiterstulen below Styggehø on the other side of the river. [4-424] A bridge takes you across Hellstuguåa, and a good mile onward the trails to Leirvassbu and Gjendebu diverge. [4-425] You hold right. [4-426] A while later you cross the stream from Semelholstjørna and the upper part of Visa, both normally easily forded. [4-427] In the Kyrkjeglupen gap there is a lot of coarse scree, but it is easy to follow the markers to the north of Kyrkjetjørna and four other tarns. [4-428] Eventually Leirvassbu appears on the far side of Leirvatnet, and you are almost there. [4-429]
[4-430 |] 2. Leirvassbu - Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [4-431] At about 9:30 a.m. every morning from early July to mid-August a glacier guide leaves Leirvassbu with tourists going west across Smørstabbreen. [4-432] At the same time a guide leaves Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta with hikers going east on the glacier. [4-433] At all three huts you sign up the night before. [4-434] Joining a group is a nice option even if not strictly needed, and it is quite reasonable. [4-435] The guide brings ropes, crampons, and other equipment. [4-436] The route reaches 5900 feet and is tough in bad weather. [4-437] Be extra careful to bring clothing sure to keep wind and rain out and warmth in. [4-438] The first few miles from Leirvassbu to the gap you can either follow the valley's old service road or a trail running roughly parallel to it. [4-439] You then turn uphill toward the saddle between Surtningstind and Stetind, crossing first the steep Surtningsbreen, which may be slick and tricky if the snow is hard. [4-440] Next you get onto Sandelvbreen, following it up below Storebjørn. [4-441] Watch out for crevasses here. [4-442] The route now turns northwest on the glacier a bit west of Kalven before descending, normally to the north of Bøverbreen. [4-443] Once off the glacier you have to decide whether to stay at Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta, the latter being slightly farther away if walking the glacier in that direction. [4-444]
[4-445 |] 3. Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu - Fannaråkhytta [4-446] Trails lead from both huts to the edge of Fannaråkbreen, merging before Prestesteinsvatnet and approaching the glacier together. [4-447] For crossing you need either your own skills and equipment or the assistance of a guide. [4-448] From early July till late August there is daily guiding. [4-449] The guide stays at Fannaråken and meets the hikers by the lower edge at 1 p.m. [1-450] You need to sign up for a guide to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta the night before. [4-451] The route over the glacier is steep at first, but levels off. [4-452] There are both crevasses and moulins that may be snow-covered, so take care. [4-453] The trail goes to the precipitous east slope of Fannaråken, quite slanted and steep at the end, before getting onto the ridge to join the Skogadalsbøen trail. [4-454] From Fannaråknosi to the hut the trail traverses a plateau with a great view. [4-455]
[4-456 |] 4. Fannaråkhytta - Turtagrø [4-457] In clear weather Fannaråken is a place for late nights and late departures, for there is an abundance of alpine scenery to enjoy all around. [4-458] No need to worry, however, for the hike to Turtagrø is a very easy one. [4-459] You start going down the ridge to the west of Fannaråken, which is rocky but with a good trail. [4-460] Past Ekrehytta it continues down into Helgedalen. [4-461] There is a recently made farm road that is easy to walk to the cabins further down the valley. [4-462] Here you leave the road and follow the trail another short mile around the bend to Turtagrø. [4-463] Unfortunately Turtagrø Hotell was destroyed by fire in January 2001, so there will be only temporary accommodations here during the reconstruction period. [4-464] Contact DNT or the hotel for status reports. [4-465]
[4-466 |] Svellnosbreen and Other Attractions [4-467] There are plenty of options for day trips at Spiterstulen, a popular one being Svellnosbreen. [4-468] Many hikers have had their first glacier experience here, on the south wall of Galdhøpiggen. [4-469] From 1949 guides have taken thousands of tourists through the icefall. [4-470] Wearing crampons and ropes, the walkers navigate labyrinthine crevasses, sharp crests, and narrow snow bridges as they are guided far into the icefall. [4-471] The glacier includes deep, dark cavities under the glacier, huge icicles, and icy pinnacles and spires out in the open. [4-472] The ice formations have gotten picturesque names, alluding to cellars, fairy castles, great halls, mazes, happy corners, and pearly gates. [4-473] It is quite clear that these trips to the "magic glacier" have nurtured a rapidly growing interest in Norwegian glaciers. [4-474]
[4-475 |] Distances [4-476] Spiterstulen - Leirvassbu, 5 h. [4-477] Leirvassbu - Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta, 6 h. [4-478] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Fannaråkhytta, 5 h. [4-479] Fannaråkhytta - Turtagrø, 3 h. down, 4 h. up. [4-480]
[4-481 |] Lodging [4-482] Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta, and Turtagrø. [4-483] The latter is still uncertain in March 2001. [4-484]
[4-485 |] Transportation [4-486] Road and bus service to all the huts except Fannaråken. [4-487]
[4-488 |] A Taste of Breheimen [4-489 |] Trip 4d - 2-3 days - gg-ggg [4-490]
[4-491] The region to the northwest of Jotunheimen is called Breheimen. [4-492] The landscape is much the same in the two areas, both being dominated by mountains and glaciers and including deep, green valleys and sharp contrasts. [4-493] My recommendation is two trips north of the Sognefjell Road that will give you a good idea of Breheimen, starting with a loop that takes in three staffed huts. [4-494]
[4-495 |] 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Nørdstedalseter [4-496] This is the longest leg of the loop, and eight hours of walking may be considered a bit too much. [4-497] It is, however, possible to shorten it. [4-498] About two miles west of Sognefjellhytta there is an old service road to Storevatnet. [4-499] It is open, and you can drive to the end of it, park, and return here once you have completed the loop via Bøvertun. [4-500] This way you save a couple of hours on the hike to Nørdstedalseter. [4-501] If you do not have a car, ask the staff at either Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta for a lift. [4-502] The most common routes from Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta merge to the west of Krosshø. [4-503] Another good half mile along there is another junction, this one to Bøvertun. [4-504] The trail twists and turns, but this is necessary in an area of so many precipices and intersecting valleys. [4-505] The trail descends to the dam at the south end of Storevatnet, crosses it, and snakes along again to skirt Kjerringhetta. [4-506] Then it takes a northerly course, fairly steep up a ridge that normally has some snowy patches, dropping gently to a junction for Bøvertun. [4-507] You turn west, down to Liabrevatnet, which is skirted to the north by the outlet. [4-508] The stream often has to be waded. [4-509] The trail ascends once more, crossing another ridge, fortunately giving you a nice view of Liabreen and Liabrevatnet. [4-510] The rest is downhill, first on the west side of Øvre Grønevatnet and then on the north side of Nedre Grønevatnet. [4-511] From here the going is easy through Vetledalen to Nørdstedalseter. [4-512 |] 2. Nørdstedalseter - Bøvertun [4-513] Every foot descended at the end of your trip from Sognefjellet will have to be ascended to get to Bøvertun. [4-514] On Tverrbyttfjellet the trail forks, and you hold left for Bøvertun. [4-515] Soon there is a fairly steep drop down and past the north end of Storevatnet. [4-516] It is then up and down for a couple of miles before descending to Bøvertun, resting nicely in its green setting at the southern end of a pretty lake. [4-517]
[4-518 |] 3. Bøvertun - Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [4-519] Bøvertun is on the Sognefjell Road, so it is, of course, possible to terminate your hike here, but I suggest you let your feet take you back to the start, allowing you to experience the beautiful Dummdalen, with its special caves (see box). [4-520] The trailhead is on the road 0.3 miles south of the hut. [4-521] You go along Dummdalen to Svarttjørna, then southward in hilly terrain to a fork of trails to Sognefjellet and Nørdstedalseter. [4-522] If you parked at Storevatnet, go right; if you are going to the huts along the main road, go left. [4-523] About half a mile up there is a new junction: Krossbu to the left, Sognefjellhytta to the right. [4-524]
[4-525 |] The Dummdalen Caves [4-526] The lower part of Dummdalen has Norway's most extensive network of caves. [4-527] They were made by the river, which burrowed its way through the limestone for thousands of years. [4-528] So far six of the caves have been marked, the largest measuring 250 yards. [4-529] The first one is near the Sognefjell Road. [4-530] The entrances are generally very narrow, and stones may loosen from the cave roof, so take care! [4-531] There are guided tours. [4-532] Jotunheimen Reiseliv in Lom has information. [4-533]
[4-534 |] Distances [4-535] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Nørdstedalseter, 8 h. [4-536] Nørdstedalseter - Bøvertun, 6 h. [4-537] Bøvertun - Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta, 5 h. [4-538]
[4-539 |] Lodging [4-540] Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Nørdstedalseter, and Bøvertun. [4-541]
[4-542 |] Transportation [4-543] Road and bus service on the Sognefjell Road. [4-544 |] Road to Nørdstedalseter. [4-545]
[4-546 |] Main Entrance to Breheimen [4-547 |] Trip 4e - 3-4 days - gg-ggg [4-548]
[4-549] Without disparaging any of the other routes between Jotunheimen and Breheimen, I want to state my preference for the one from Turtagrø over Liabrekulen to Nørdstedalseter. [4-550] The traverse of the glacier at 5900 feet is magnificent. [4-551] Since the self-service hut at Stølsdalen appeared, the distance is also manageable. [4-552] The map included here goes only as far as Nørdstedalseter and Trulsbu, but your visit to Breheimen may continue. [4-553] There are marked trails and huts for going both west and north in Breheimen, so get yourself a map and explore these magnificent mountains, too. [4-554]
[4-555 |] 1. Turtagrø - Stølsdalen [4-556] Turtagrø burnt down in January 2001, so you need to check if you want to stay there. [4-557] This leg is fortunately short enough to manage even with a late start. [4-558] The trail first heads up a steep pitch just below Turtagrø till it reaches a rock dump before turning into Gjesingedalen. [4-559] Fording the river is normally no problem. [4-560] Past Skålabotnskaret you reach the abandoned Skålabotn summer farm. [4-561] Hence the terrain is rather steep and tricky, so you need to pay attention to the markers. [4-562] Crossing the river in this valley is also usually no problem, before you ascend on the old herd path to the hut. [4-563] If, however, the power company releases the water into the river, it cannot be forded, and you have to take the old trail up past Nedre Skålavatnet to the trail from Sognefjellet to Stølsdalen, but this rarely happens in the summer. [4-564]
[4-565 |] 1. Alternative: Fortundalen - Stølsdalen [4-566] Instead of starting from Turtagrø, you may take a marked trail to Stølsdalen from Svensøy in Fortundalen. [4-567] The walking time is about the same on this shorter route with considerably greater variation in elevation. [4-568] It is also an option if you want to quit in Stølsdalen. [4-569] It starts along the road, crossing the bridge over Granfasta and following an old herd path past Nedstestølen and Øvstestølen, before taking the old Bjørnstigen path over the ridge to the hut. [4-570]
[4-571 |] 2. Stølsdalen - Nørdstedalseter [4-572] This is the high point of the trip, literally speaking. [4-573] The trail climbs steadily from the hut, first past a signpost for the return to Skålavatnet, and then all the way to the top of Liabreen. [4-574] At the height of land, Liaflua, the trail crosses a small glacial arm, so pay attention to the markers - it is not solely to ensure fantastic views along your way that you are advised against making this trip in poor visibility! [4-575] The marked trail runs a good half mile west of the top of Liabreen, then drops sharply between the glacier and Tverrdalsnosi, but stays clear of the glacier itself. [4-576] The markers continue at a steep grade into Vetledalen, where there is a ford. [4-577] In a few miles you experience the entire range from frigid winter up above to full summer down in the valley. [4-578] Having crossed Vetledøla, you join the trail from Sognefjellet (see Trip 4d) and follow this down the valley to Nørdstedalseter. [4-579]
[4-580 |] 3. Nørdstedalseter - Trulsbu [4-581] Do not let it stop you that the first part of this trip involves walking about six miles along a service road.